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it depends on the year, but most haulers have the DT466E. Theres not much available for the electronic engines. I think theres a Dr. Performance box, and another from TS perfomance. You're only looking at a max of 40hp.
with an 88, you have options. You can go as high in power as your wallet allows(so to speak). Your driveline may not like 600hp. The pump you have(either a Bosch A or MW) is fine to make the power you need. The 88 IH cab is another story, it's not really made for much comfort.
I want to find an appropriate 466dt and install it in my old pickup, tune it up (500-100 hp) and then burn tires, and blow smoke out of the stack that will stick out of the hood.
What do i do? Certain model or year of 466?
I want to make at least 600 hp ---- how?
I keep hearing stories of guys getting 1200-1500 hp without nos or anything how the f do they do that?
i emailed hypermax- they said roughly 350HP is about max for these motors tuning the stock fuel sys, but that's also about 850 ft/lbs....they have turbos, injectors, and p-pump upgrades. The upgrades are more expensive than a cummins but also heed a bigger result. Just some info I have obtained.
If you're looking for the ultra hp levels, the look for a 93-95 DT466, also called NGD. They have the P-pump just like the ones on the Cummins 5.9's. You can have the pump calibrated for some crazy flow, like up to 1000cc's. Custom EDM injectors, and you have to build your own compound turbo setup. They dont fit in a pickup very well! Most older trucks will have to have the radiator in the bed.
It integrates the valve cover with the intake. Maybe it saves $ in casting, or saves space, not really sure of the benefit. I know it's gonna create a hood clearance issue with my Super Duty.
I want to put it in a 1/2 ton, wich I am going to gut, use the body, and weld a custom frame, design custom steering and suspension, and basically the radiator will be in the box. along with the batteries, windshield washer jug, air filters, etc.
All i want under the hood is the engine, and the accessory belt, with alt, and water pump and steering, and possibly ac, but no fan.
Possible install an electric fan with a temp activated control in case of getting hot while operating stationary.(like for the engine bay to not overheat.)
I want to put it in a 1/2 ton, wich I am going to gut, use the body, and weld a custom frame, design custom steering and suspension, and basically the radiator will be in the box. along with the batteries, windshield washer jug, air filters, etc.
All i want under the hood is the engine, and the accessory belt, with alt, and water pump and steering, and possibly ac, but no fan.
Possible install an electric fan with a temp activated control in case of getting hot while operating stationary.(like for the engine bay to not overheat.)
You could get it all to work like that in a custom chassis, like a drag truck setup.
Keep in mind though, you will likely need to have the pump calibrated to make the kind of flow you need. A sled puller guy once told me he makes around 700hp for really cheap. Plus, he says the IH DT lineup is stout enough to take a hard pull like that to 4500 rpm without flying apart. Meaning, 4500 on all stock IH internals, no fancy studs or bolts on the crank.
I pull tractors in the Limited Pro Stock class and we run a DT466. Get the newer style block...they have bigger lifters and can easily be converted in to aftermarket roller lifters. We are getting about 1250hp out of ours right now. The only injection we use is straight water ( no NOS, propane, or methanol). I have a 79 F-250. When my 400 gives out, it is getting a DT466 and an Allison transmission. I am building the engine with all of the spare parts we have. Here is a heads up...you want an intake manifold off of a 93 International truck with a 466. They are a larger volume, and have a better air entrance angle. This was all to accomidate for an intercooler in '93.
Parkland did you ever build one of these monsters?
I keep reading more and ore about these engines. I think I will have to get one in the future now.
I am wondering when you compare the 5.9 cummins 12v to one of these engines when are they equal?
In another words I have hear of others saying you could create 600hp for less on a 5.9 but 600hp on a 5.9 is not the same as 600hp on a 7.3 is it?
If you put a 600hp 5.9 12 Cummins in a said pickup what hp does the dt466 have to be to match performance wise like pulling or towing?
Dont really care about 1/4 mile times. I know the dt is alot heavier but just wondered when do they equal each other if they ever could.
I had a friend would had 347 blown small block that had around 500hp and that thing just screamed in his pickup. Sounding great but when he swapped in a 502 with I think around 600hp N.A. the bigger cubes slammed you in the seat and just felt of so much more power from the start.
Dont know how the 2 engines compared in the 1/4 mile which is what my friend was doing but 0-80mph just came alot faster with the 502.
But these are diesels and I dont know crap about the dt466 so please help.
For your F600, it'll be great. For making gobs of torque, yes they can. To compare one to a Cummins 5.9 is just a rough difference in math. The Cummins has around 2:1(torque to hp ratio), and a 7.3 has around 1.8:1, but the 466 has 2.5:1. So, 600hp from a Cummins is about 1200 for tq. and a 466 at 600hp is about 1500 for tq. The main thing is the durability, the 466 will last quite a bit longer than a Cummins 6BT at 600hp, especially in a heavy truck.
To get there?
Injectors, pump work, and a turbo or 2 at a bare minimal. There's also stuff for insurance, like HD rod bolts, or stiffer valve springs & thicker pushrods. It's the small details that I dont have. I'm not too sure on the exact injector size(I got a pretty good idea it'll be a 5X.016-.018), or the exact turbo sizing that it'll take to work in your truck. Pump, pump adaptor, and gear if you have a 92 or older, if you're going for big power it needs a P-pump. The 93 -95(and some up to 97) had a P-pump from the factory. Also keep in mind, you will have to get a clutch, trans, drive shaft, and rear axle to withstand all that. For the most bang for the buck, look for one newer than 88. There's a lot to learn by watching, talking to, and reading in the sled pulling crowd. That's also where you pick up cheaper performance parts, used. There's even been roller rockers made for a few years now.
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