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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Door Problems

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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Door Problems

I have a 1950 F-1 and I am trying to get it back in shape. I was curious if anyone knew how to get the door hinge pin out or if there is some secret that I am not aware of.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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The door hinge pins are a pain. There are many ways to do. One is to buy a pin removal tool but I have mostly negative things about them, mainly they don't work and tend to break. The easiest way that I have found it to use a center punch to mark the center of the head. Start with a small drill and drill about an 1" down. Then take a large drill bit and drill down until the head comes off. I then used a drill bit a little smaller the diameter of the pin and drilled down the distance of the knurl part of the pin. Once I got down this far I used a drift punch to knock the pin out through the bottom. It worked just fine for me but other will have other techiques. Use whichever one works best for you.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:36 AM
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Thanks for the info---I will try it.---Joker50
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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Heat it up, apply some parafin (sealing wax) around the head while hot. Put a socket that just fits over the head over it, use a short (~1") long allen head cap screw (they are hardened so won't bend or swell) the diameter of the pin or slightly smaller on the bottom end as a arbor. Place a large C clamp over the socket and capscrew and screw the clamp down to press the pin out. You only need to press it ~ 1/2" to clear the knurls under the pin head. A pin punch and hammer will finish the job.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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What ever you do don't buy the hinge pin remover it is worthless. I had the same problem with my 52. your best bet is to get a torch a hammer and some sturdy punches. Heat the hinge to red hot and drive the pin out. I will let you know it will take 2 people and a lot of patience. Just be jure to get the puch centered in the pin. Good luck Casey
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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From: Dayton, OH
If your lucky you wont have one like I did once.
3lb sledge torch,punch, oil etc etc.
I was saving a good door off a junk cab. The hinge was bending I beat on it so long. I spent about half a day on it.
I ground the head off and had to hit it top and bottom and finally after a few hours of cussing it broke the rust seal.
That was my very first one to boot! All the other ones I have tackled come out with some force but nothing like that first one.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Similar to Bob's method, but I ground the head off the pin before center punching and drilling. Remember, the knurled area of the pin is at the top, and you want to weaken its holding power by drilling as much of the pin out as you can. You can leave the bottom of the pin protruding to hammer on, but you may mushroom it. I was able to leave it on one pin, and wound up cutting it and drilling on the others. Heat and pb blaster help. It's a crappy job, and when your done your wife will ask why it took all night to remove those rusty nails from the door.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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First off, i didnt read the other post above so if this has already been said just bypass my opinion. My pins were verry verry seized up, i started with just spraying them for a few days with areokroil which is in my opinion one of the best lubricants out there. I also used a hand held propane torch and applied heat and sprayed oil heat and sprayed etc.

Then u should be ready to try and drive it out. I feel that almost and i mean almost...any pin can be removed if the right punch and hammer is used. Basically that a punch that is as close and you can get to the size of the pin therefore you dont risk mushrooming the pin or any other damage. Just give it shot and let us know how it turns out.
 
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