This is a 460+ .030, forged pistons, DOOE rods, balanced, Performer 750cfm, Performer RPM Manifold, full tube headers, Mallory Comp 9000, PI heads w/smog bumps removed/bowls cleaned/2.19" intake valves, 10.55:1 C/R, 1.73 roller rockers, 2500rpm stall, C6, 3.50 gears in a full sized '82 Bronco w/31" tires. This is a fun street ride, not a puller, rock crawler or hill climber. I like fast acceleration on demand. The last (current) cam was a mild Crane and I'm in the process of putting together a new engine.

Three cam manufacturers have recommended basically the same grind for this 5500# brick, all in the 230-240 degree range (solid lifters) producing 600ftlbs of torque @ 2000rpm and 350-375hp @ 4000rpm.

I've played with DeskTop Dyno input showing 575ftlb torque @ 2000rpm with 450hp @ 4200rpm. For hard street usage, should I stay with the cam manufacturers canned recommendations, which stress off-road performance, or go for a more balanced torque/hp curve?

In 15 years, I've run this with a stock 429, a couple of modified 460 variations and CJ specs/heads (the CJ was not an ideal application with the low rpm converter and weight).

Thanks,

George

 

I'm running a custom ground cam its a 272/282 adv duration. don't have the rest of the specs (it was done about 10 yrs ago). It is setup to run good on the street, with the addition of nitrous, hence the more exhaust duration. I'm running some c8 heads, and about 10:1. Similar set up as you are describing.
Except you have nicer heads. This cam is a little on the rumpity side. Still retains vacumn good, and has a nice sound to it if you like that sort of thing. Torque is not a problem w/ my truck but its 2wd.

I don't see why you can't step-up to a larger cam if you are not doing any off roading, or rock climbing. The cam manufactures will probably recomend you step up to a higher stall convertor though (which is something I need to do myself now).

chris
79 F-150 Ranger Lariat, 2wd, RC, LB, 460 (intake, headers, cam), C-6(shift kit).

79 mustang (work in progress...its just slow progress)
98 Chevy 4x4 (work truck)
95 Lexus SC300 (wife's baby)

 

I agree with you, I should be able to increase the duration, reduce the torque and increase the hp. I actually like the header sound created by cam overlap. I know by increasing duration that hp will come in at higher rpms, but these things are torque monsters. I've run DeskTop Dyno simulations with duration (@.050) from 250 through 280 and some impressive hp can be achieved without torque dropping below 500ftlbs @2000rpm.

If necessary, I'll run a vacuum reservoir. My major concern with going higher than a 2500rpm stall converter is heat. I now run stacked plate engine and trans oil coolers with a fan primarily due to summertime underhood heat produced by the non-coated headers. I live in the desert and 110 degrees is normal. I know a 3000rpm stall generates a lot more heat, so I'll have to find out just how much of an increase it is.

Comp, Crane and Crower cam techs are limited to recommendations contained in their software. After all three recommended virtually the same choice, I'm prone to think it's an industry standard package with 4x4 selections oriented to off-roading requirements. I need to learn more about cam technology, hear more from people like you and then talk with a grinder who can make a recommendation based on specific application facts.

I don't want to do this again because I used the wrong cam. I've changed just the cam before and it involves removing most of the front sheetmetal, all engine parts back to the block, the distributor and manifold. And these days, a R12 recharge ain't cheap. Not a fun have-to project.

 

Dump the 3:50 gearing and go for 30's or 4:11's Your mileage won't change that much and the "seat of the pants" acceleration will be noticed. You'll also be able to run more cam. Another option is to purchase the Ford SVO planetary gear set for the C-6
this will lower your 1 & 2 gear for improved acceleration but retain the same 1-1 gear ratio in high to maintain your present MPG. I put one of those planetary gear sets in a 1978 P.U. I used to have and it made a big differance in accelerating from a stop.

Deen Hylton
Ford F250 460 C-6, K&N, Headers, Dual Exh.,Comp. Cams,Shift Kit
Pioneer CD w/Bose Speakers.
Other Passion: Blown 77 Corvette (Sorry Guys/Gals)
How I can afford to Drive the above: 93 GEO Metro

 

With that torque curve off the "600 lb ft" grind and a 2500 stall, you are going to miss a lot of power.. If you use that 2500 stall with a hotter cam, it will be much easier on everything else..
When the engine peaks torque at 2000, and stalls at 2500 (more than peak) you are going to lose all the torque under the curve (before 2000) and after 2000 will be losing torque after the curve..
BTW.. YES, torque is good.. torque is what moves a large, heavy vehicle..such as your "brick" with a 3 speed C6, you shouldnt worry about acceleration with that 600 lb ft behind you.. it's gonna cook off the line.
You may want to have a custom grind which will move the torque curve up a little higher in RPM, say to 2800, and horsepower will move accordingly. This will make good use of your 2500 Stall, without you having to go higher than that.
Have fun!!!!!

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

Just remember two things...the MOST common mistakes the average DIY mechanic makes is buying too big of cam or buying too big of carburator. There are many factors that determine cam selection, but the most important 4 are 1. vehicle weight, 2. total rear end gearing (tire height/rear end ratio) 3. engine compression and 4. engine displacement.
You won't be able to do much about your vehicle weight...and running 10:5 to 1 compression limits you buying an "agressive" cam.
I'm looking at the Crane master catolog right now, their smallest
solid lifter camshaft for the 429-460 is the "Saturday Night Special" (246/256 @ 0.50")which requires a 3,000 stall converter and 10.5 minimum compression. The very next larger cam requires 11:00/1 minimum compression and a 3,500+ stall converter.
I'm not saying your engine can't run a bigger camshaft than recommended but you WILL accelerate faster if you lean to the "milder/smaller" for street use...afterall how often do you intend buzzing your engine to 6,000 RPM between stoplights?

Deen Hylton
Ford F250 460 C-6, K&N, Headers, Dual Exh.,Comp. Cams,Shift Kit
Pioneer CD w/Bose Speakers.
Other Passion: Blown 77 Corvette (Sorry Guys/Gals)
How I can afford to Drive the above: 93 GEO Metro

 

Crower makes a very nice roller cam for the 460. I like it because it has an aggressive ramp but not too big of lift and the duration is 235/245 @0.050, I think. Anyway, it should be close to the duration you are looking for. It should give you around 550 ft lbs at 2000 and around 520 hp around 5500. A very nice combo.

 

hi, just my 2 cents, why not just go for the big bore .060 over, heck you'll have an added 12 cubic inches, and more torque. don't freak out with a big over bore these motors are very well capable of going well over 100,000 miles and beyond. mine has 115,000 now and still going strong. C.J.

 

just let me clarify one thing before i get chewed on.( just kiddin).. 12 more cubic inches from stock. and 6 more cubic inches from the .030 over bore. .030 is a 441 cu. in... and .060 is a 472 cu. in. .... build em to run.......

 

dog done it, now i'm getting ticked... let me try this again i've got 429 on the brain.. i'm sorry everyone got 4 different things going on at once and i'm not concentrating to well... .030 for the 460 turns it into a 466 cu.in. and this was right a .060 turns a 460 into a 472 cu.in. ok, let the chewing begin. ha, ha, everyone have a great weekend. C.J.