This is an illustration of the larger GVWR F250 F350 PPV

 

ok just for clarification if you use 2 guys to bleed the brakes like in the old days do you have to pull out the bleed valve or does it open on its own?

cause i had the vacuum on it today and opened the bleeder and i didnt get much fluid to come out, no where near what i got out the rear

 

The rod has to be pulled to allow "Proper" bleeding of the fronts.

Doesn't matter how many people are involved

 

alright i did bleed em they an clear but it is still squishy doesnt get firm till 3/4 way down.

i posted in the brakes section as well about what could cause that issue. if the truck is off and i pump the brakes th pedal gets really firm bu i can still get it to the floor without standing on it. so i assume it is the M/C and possbly the booster

 

There is an adjustment between the booster and the Master cylinder that also has to be correct.

 

I just changed all brake lines on the front including calipers and pads, master cylinder etc!!! I have no pedal after several bleeding attempts??? I plugged the new MC to check for leak down/ No leaks!!! I put the rear line on good pedal??? I then put the front line back on, to the floor we go??? Is this the metering bleeder not bled causing this??? I am at a loss and at peaks end with this thing!!! Everthing but that(metering block) has been done!!! Some idiot cut all the brakelines before I purchsed vehicle!!! so the block had no fluid in it for a little while!! Please send me your Opinions even if they have alredy been posted!!!

 

You may have a M/C with a faulty primary system seal .....

With the cap off have someone press on the brake pedal and watch for a fountain in the primary reservoir.

 

If I have a fountain what does this mean?? Sorry if this is a stupid question!!! And as noted earlier! I capped the MC on both outlets and had no leakdown, in fact the pedal was hard and did not budge!! Doesnt this prove the master cylinder to be good?? It is new?? Bleeder valve trouble!!! The system was dry and new lines were installed??

 

yes it does .....I must have missed that part.


So,if the hydraulic system is sealed .....it is sealed.

With no leaks, brake caliper pistons extended to rotor and rear shoes adjusted properly and good master cylinder and all corners bled it should be good to go.

There isn't any part of the front brake lines that has a cavity of air in them is there?

I like to know for sure the caliper pistons have extended fully before bleeding.

 

I'm going down this road at the moment, too. Done 20 brake jobs in my life and the 81' f150 has thrown me for a loop.

I guess I should look for a way to hold that proportioning valve while I try bleeding the brakes for the 4th time. What a joke.

 

Some small vice grips or the C shaped spring-loaded thing which holds it out. Those valves can stick too I believe.

 

Finally got front brakes back. I put a clamp to press and hold the proportioning valve's pin in DURING the bleeding of front callipers. Mashed the brakes after bleeding and heard a small thud. I read that some valves have a "pull style" pin like you mentioned. I tried both and in my case it was a pusher. Maybe a way to learn if your pin is a push or pull is to push pin, mash brakes till pin pops out.

Thanks for your time everyone.