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Crooked window when rolling down?

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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:16 AM
  #1  
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Crooked window when rolling down?

Ok i know at least ONE person on here has come accross this, but all three of our aero's do this: when you go to roll down the window, it will go part way down, then get stuck with one side farther down than the other, and barly move, unless the user pushes the window down with the switch (usualy the back of the glass) if i read on here correctly, one solution is filling the track with silicone grease? how's this work? its a PITA to try to roll down the passenger window, lean over and help it down while driving... my mom's however goes down just fine, but has to be asisted back up, which is even more unsafe!!. help?

edit: if there is links on here that already deal with this, i'll more than gladly look up the correct keywords, i just don't know what to look for (and looking up "window" brings up any thing that has that word in it....)
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 02:46 AM
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That usually means there is too much friction in either the felt tracks that the glass slides in or the steel tracks that the rollers of the regulator roll in. For a quick fix, you can try spraying silicone spray into the felt tracks. You need to saturate those areas. If that doesn't work, you will have to get into the door skin and clean out the roller tracks and then re-lube them.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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Ditto on using spray silicone lubricant in the side channels -- not grease. It does work, but if you get overspray and get it on the visible glass, you'll never get it off and will have greasy streaks forever.

The window regulators wear out too. IIRC, there was both a TSB and a revised regulator for the early Aeros; don't know if this applies to our later ones.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Wow - that's a fix I had forgotten all about.

The driver's window on my van used to do this. I had to straighten the window in the track or it just wouldn't move any further. And my van has wind-em yerself windows.

I sprayed the window channels liberally a few times with silicone spray & when I had the inner panels off for a different reason I sprayed the bottom sections of the channels and also sprayed some white lithium grease on the gears and pivots in the regulator assembly.

This was a fix I did about 5 or 6 years ago. The hang-up has never come back & until I saw this post I forgot all about it.

Cheers,
Eric
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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AH THANK YOU!!! like i said, all three of our aero's suffer from this so i will tackle this project sometime soon (maybe this weekend? idk boss has me working alot cuz of superbowl)

who has good tips for replacement door pannel tabs? i bought some generic ones that were marked ford gm chrystler at autozone, but they don't have the same heads as the oem ones, and they brake 1,000,000,000 times easyer than the oem ones... what do you guys use?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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Door Trim Panel Retainers, black: Au-Ve-Co 12565. I buy them in a box (25) at a time. My box says this on it:
Ford
Head Dia: 25/32
Stem Dia: 5/16
Stem Length: 5/8
Black Nylon


NAPA has one that fits as well: Balkamp 665-2057 (package of (8) pieces). I have an empty NAPA pkg stuffed in the bottom of one of my Au-Ve-Co boxes, so if I need some in a hurry I can buy some at NAPA.

Early doors take (11) (Ford dealer used to sell them in (10) packs, which drove me nuts: every time I'd do a panel pull, I'd be one short, or have nine left over!)

Late doors I think take only (10), but not certain. They do take ten or less, that I'm sure of.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Smile Check the rear guide channel

The guide track (rear) is in two pieces, check that the top & bottom attachment points are engaged on the lower guide track (below the visible window area) close to the door lock. I had this problem on my replacement door & after removing the trim panel thats what I found. You have to feel around a bit because it's not visible ,but you'll be able to tell if it's clipped in correctly as it'll be loose. With no for/aft engagment when you lower the window it is allowed to tilt, since there is nothing to guide it & it pivots from the window motor lift arm.
While your at it lube up the lock mechanism & clean the door drain slots !
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 02:57 AM
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a light coating of silicone grease such as dielectric ignition grease works well in the lower half of the guide track. lasts much longer than the silicone spray here in the rainy NW
ice in the guide track is also a major problem. silicone displaces the water.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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I had to replace a bunch of these that the previous owner had re-used on the back hatch panel today.

 
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