Hey guys, Im in the process of scraping together parts for this summer and am looking for a set of c or d0ve heads. If I dont end up getting a set that already has the 2.19+/1.7x+ valves, would it be worth my time and money to go oversize? The math says that going from stock 2.08's to 2.19's would increase maximum flow potential by just over 5%, but do you guys think my engine would ever make use of that? Its a 429 with a 268 degree cam, the heads will be ported, 9.5+ CR, 770 street avenger, and all the other basic bolt ons. This engine will never spin more than ~5400, and its in a heavy truck with a factory stall. If the bigger valves will really help mid range torque and top end hp (4,000-5,000) I guess it would be worth it...but what's the cost down low going to be? I cant really afford to lose anything off the line, at least till I get lower gears. Any thoughts on the subject? By the way, has anyone ever tried desktop dyno'ing with the bigger/smaller valves to see what the different torque/hp curves would be like based just on that? Thanks for any input.

 

I would think a 530-560 lift with a 230-240 duration, and a 110-112 degree center would be better. I like the bigger valve, run a cj exhaust valve, stock intake is fine. A mild convertor like a 2600-2800 would be nice, and it would not be very noticable. A lunati 00096 or 00097 is anice street cam in a 460. It will have a slight lope while cold, but smooths out nice after a minute. The Fords like a split lift duration to help the exhaust side catch up with the intake. The 00096 would be better with the stock convertor.

00096
214°Intake @ .050
224° Ex @ .050
.516" Intake
.543" Ex 112° Lobe sep
I run this in a mild 460. The 00097 would be better, I will swap to it this spring. The 0096 is a great torque cam, and pulls well. I run the engine in a street stock/street open pullin truck. If you want to hear it, goto http://www.truckpulls.com/photos.htm and wait for the 1.7 MB file to download, then mouse over it. You can hear the truck idle, and then do a burnout. You can click on the test and tune, its the same thing, and you can download it.

The 00097 is;
230 duration at .050
.554 lift, and 109 lobe seperation.
You WILL need the convertor for this.

Your duration, if what you said is at .050", you dont have enough convertor IMHO. You'll want a 2600 or so to help get her on the pipe. Listen to mine, it sounds good with DOVE heads, and a CJ ex valve.

 

is the truck cold while its idling in that video??? also what size valves would you recomend running on dove heads with the 00096 cam?
im looking to build my 460 for my f-250 up more now that im getting a new truck, i want something that has mid-high rpm power, but still has enough low end to drive on the street, would that lunati cam be enough? or could i go with more cam? im gonna use a performer rpm intake, probably roller rockers, 10.5:1 compression and landl chassis exit headers

 

Run the 1.760 Ex valve, the stock intake is fine in the DOVE head. I run that cam with Harland Sharp 1.85:1 roller rockers, DOVE heads, 4.10 gears. It has enough low end to pull a broke down tractor trailer. It is not a high reving cam...you'de be looking at 5200 RPM shifts. The 00097 would get you a little higher, but it would sacrifice the low end grunt, and idle quality. The 00096 is idleing cold there in the video. The truck had been setting out in the winter cold for 2 months, it was started up, and played with until the guage moved off of cold, them a couple little burnouts, and back to the field to wait for spring. You shouldn't have any piston clearance problems with that cam, but you will still always verify....correct? This cam is a massive low-mid power builder. If you want 6500+ RPM's forget this cam. Ours stops making any gains at about 5150 on the Dynojet chassis dyno. If your looking at racing the engine at high RPM's, this is not a cam for you....I just want to make that clear. It will be great for truck pulls, trailer towing, heavy work, dragging castles down the road...but not for drag strip use! Ther is always a give and take, the more upper RPM range you get, the less low RPM usability you get. This is a good compromise cam for a 460 with nice DOVE/C9VE/SCJ heads, with some mild porting. If you are doing a monster bottom end with a bad to the bone set of rods and after market crank, go big! Go with a .650 lift, 260-270 duration cam and a stall convertor. Headers, and big exhaust are a plus! I run SCJ ex manifolds and 3" pipe thru race mufflers on the truck you saw. Also, go with the Wiend Stealth SCJ intake, have your hed shop port match it to the DOVE ports, as well as the cast exhaust manifolds if you do what I did. Our 00096 idles like stock once it warms up a bit, but it sounds sweeeet for the first few minuts!

 

thanks, i was hoping that was how she idled all the time, but that didnt seem like enough cam to be hitting like that, i think i might go one step up from that cam, though im not really sure, i have a 4 spd granny, pulling 39 inch tires with 4.11 gears, my very mild low comp 460 io have now has no problem pullin the 39's with a ton a gravel, or a bobcat, or whatever i want, im just looking for a good strong slightly radical street motor i guess since i wont be having to drive her everyday soon, i want something that still has a bit of low end, but i can also get out in the mud and raise hell, i guess i jus want a slightly lopey idle too, i know im gonna haveto give something up to get one thing i want, oh well, i got a few months to decide....one more thing, do you use those port plates that are listed on mpghead's website?

 

I forgot to mention that ther is no choke on that carb, or high idle, so that contributes to the rough cold idle. Do yourself a favor and look up http://www.camresearch.com and call and talk to him once. Explain what you got, and want you want it to do for you, and he'll stear you in the correct direction. His cams are know for being very good.

 

alright, ill doit, thanks bud