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Very impresive install please do keep the pics coming as it progresse's It's great to see some one take time to make things nice and kneet as possible.
is the 4/0 gauge passed form under the truck? looks like it, were did you run it from the battery?
like I said ver ynice install, the only thing thats caught my attension is the pic from the passenger side door into the cab showing the input wires going down the middel and wires crossing them at a 45 degree angle. Not sure if theres a 12v source in the bundle but if you must cross input wires with a supply wire of any kind do it at a 90 angle. Don't want you to have things finished then be chasing a hum or engine feedback. From the looks of the complexity of the install you already know that
Looks great so far, clean as can be 4 15's huh thats going to be one awsome boom best of luck
Skoda
Very impresive install please do keep the pics coming as it progresse's It's great to see some one take time to make things nice and kneet as possible.
is the 4/0 gauge passed form under the truck? looks like it, were did you run it from the battery?
like I said ver ynice install, the only thing thats caught my attension is the pic from the passenger side door into the cab showing the input wires going down the middel and wires crossing them at a 45 degree angle. Not sure if theres a 12v source in the bundle but if you must cross input wires with a supply wire of any kind do it at a 90 angle. Don't want you to have things finished then be chasing a hum or engine feedback. From the looks of the complexity of the install you already know that
Looks great so far, clean as can be 4 15's huh thats going to be one awsome boom best of luck
Skoda
Thanks!
Good eye! The wire at the 45 is loose at the intersection.
The power wire is 1/0 for the 2 amps in the cab. They run along the frame rails under the truck. I'll get some pics when I finish up the wire up front.
The 4/0 will run under the truck to the bed for the sub amps and batteries. Looks like I will be cutting the bed next weekend
The 4/0 will run under the truck to the bed for the sub amps and batteries. Looks like I will be cutting the bed next weekend
WoW, you got loines. I'll give you that forgot to mention How awsome the f-250 looked, best of luck with it as well not to mention you must of got some major brownie points for getting her a rig like that
you just can't mistake that lariat badge
Last edited by Skoda; Jan 20, 2008 at 11:57 PM.
Reason: spelling
Can I ask, how are you mounting those amps? Drilling through the floor? I didn't quite get how the cross-brace works.
Thanks--will be working on the same soon.
Can I ask, how are you mounting those amps? Drilling through the floor? I didn't quite get how the cross-brace works.
Thanks--will be working on the same soon.
The Bracket is under the carpet with the screws coming back through the carpet. So it squeezes the carpet to the amp. I then mount the bracket to the floor of the truck.
I do this so if I ever have to pull the amp I can mount it back in the same spot without hunting for the holes I drilled out.
It also makes me feel better at night to know they are a little tougher to pull from the truck in a hurry
looks could glad im not the only one doing fiberglass doorpanels but why 6 the frequency range between those and the 8 will be overlapping why not do 5.25
looks could glad im not the only one doing fiberglass doorpanels but why 6 the frequency range between those and the 8 will be overlapping why not do 5.25
I have never been happy with the "car Audio" speakers. They seam to be to general of a sound for my liking.
The 6's will cut in and out at 80-9khz and the 8's will be in at 60-3khz.
The 5.25" would be too lacking in the lower midbass range.
The glass work is taking a little longer then expected, I'm still working out the looks of it before I cover them..
thats cool i just play the 5.25 a little lower around70-3k and let the 8's do around 60-120 hz and tweets should handle everything above 3k but nice build the door panels look good
thats cool i just play the 5.25 a little lower around70-3k and let the 8's do around 60-120 hz and tweets should handle everything above 3k but nice build the door panels look good
You could open up the 8's a little more and get a warmer sound in the midrange. Depending on the 8 you could have them cut out around 900hz and it would really bring up the vocals.