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To set to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine..
Now with "key on engine off" First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.
If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.
Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.
I have capture and all that stuff on my meter. I was a tech for years.
The think i'm looking for is a dead spot. It will be driving fine then feels like it goes in nuetral while driving until I move throttle possition. Only does it sometimes and shifts harsh most other times. I'm going to check that, thanks for the info
if it feels like it goes into neutral while driving it is most likely the transmission range sensor located on the left side of the trans when there is a dead spot in the fipl it will cause erratic torque converter clucth operation or shift hunting 4-3 3-4 etc but not a neutral feel when the TR goes south intermittantly the pcm thinks you have selected manual low and causes the transmission to downshift to first gear but because you are at road speed the engine is overrunning the transmission giving the perception of neutral
if it feels like it goes into neutral while driving it is most likely the transmission range sensor located on the left side of the trans when there is a dead spot in the fipl it will cause erratic torque converter clucth operation or shift hunting 4-3 3-4 etc but not a neutral feel when the TR goes south intermittantly the pcm thinks you have selected manual low and causes the transmission to downshift to first gear but because you are at road speed the engine is overrunning the transmission giving the perception of neutral
Still can't figure it out, could never get a code out of it. But it drove this morning and it did it....came back and got a code 23. So I'm going to check it out now. Thats the only code it had
code 23 is a fipl code . however you must perform the test while holding the throttle at wide open during the test or ot will set a code 23 were your results 23-10-11
a tr sensor will not set a code as long as its voltage reading os within normal operating parameters , like i stated before if the tr sensor changes from 2.10 volts in the o/d position and changes to about 0.7 volts those readings are within parameters , the processor doesnt know that you havent change the gear position because this is teh sensor that reads that
code 23 is a fipl code . however you must perform the test while holding the throttle at wide open during the test or ot will set a code 23 were your results 23-10-11
a tr sensor will not set a code as long as its voltage reading os within normal operating parameters , like i stated before if the tr sensor changes from 2.10 volts in the o/d position and changes to about 0.7 volts those readings are within parameters , the processor doesnt know that you havent change the gear position because this is teh sensor that reads that
o.k. so how do a check the TR sensor?
I did some more searching, I guess you can't really check it? I'm going to try and get on in the morning.......from searching it looks quite common
it is a common part to fail and i hesitate to explain how to test it because someone not used to testing these systems can cause a catastrophic failure in the pcm
it is a common part to fail and i hesitate to explain how to test it because someone not used to testing these systems can cause a catastrophic failure in the pcm
o.k. I can understand that.
I plan on replacing it, I drove it again and it seems if I wiggle the shifter when it does it it will go back in gear. So I'm pretty sure thats what it is.
I don't know why anyone calls it a range sensor, all it is a nuetral safety switch. Anyway...ford didn't have one. Autonzone had one in stock so I got it. Came with a new plug end. I did not install that. Just cleaned the old one and put some dielectric grease in it. adjusted it try in every position...truck wont even start now....
no it is a range sensor and a neutral switch , there was and early style 89-94 and 95-98 the late style replaces the early style switch but the connectors are differenet and have to be changed when upgrading , early style was rectangular late was oval shape , and after those models we changed from analog to digital but you would see a major difference in them
no it is a range sensor and a neutral switch , there was and early style 89-94 and 95-98 the late style replaces the early style switch but the connectors are differenet and have to be changed when upgrading , early style was rectangular late was oval shape , and after those models we changed from analog to digital but you would see a major difference in them
Well someone must have replaced it before b/c it looked exactly the same. has the oval plug
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