i have a 66 with a 352 fe engine. it has a warner T18 4 sp tranny. i would like to know how had it is to replace the clutch. so far i have done all the work on the truck myself as i cannot afford to have a shop do it. i am an ordinary joe. a shop wants 600 to 650 bucks to do the job. that is parts and labor. i can afford the parts. i am the labor. can someone tell me what is involved. i have read an article by a guy who did this on a car. sounds like hell. do i need air tools to free the bolts, a tranny jack etc. jeff

 

runningbear, you don't need air tools but you need to be able to jack the truck up and support it with good jack stands. Drop the drive shaft, unhook the shift linkage, take out the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing and THEN you need to be young and very very strong OR borrow a transmission jack to pull that baby back and then down. Taking the clutch out is simple, you will need a line up tool to put the clutch back in. If you dropped th tranny out without hurting yourself, putting it back in is even tougher without a trans jack. I dropped a 3spdOD out of my 56 sedan (literally) but had to borrow a jack to get it back in. Pulled the light duty 3 spd out of my 64F100SW , replaced the clutch and "horsed" it back in with out a trans jack. But a 4 speed? nope! My thoughts, I'm sure others will join in. At 65, I need all the help I can get. LOL

You parts store can proably loan you the line up tool and maybe even the trans jack. You might be able to fab one using a floor jack as a base BUT be careful!!

POP

 

A general clutch job is not difficult at all. When I did my first clutch replacement, I really thought it was going to be hard going into it. However, now that I look back, I noticed that a few key things are what allowed me to successfully finish the job:

- Time and patience. (Seriously, or you can really get hurt)
- Don't force anything. Work out the problems that you WILL encounter.
- Get ready to get extremely dirty. (That's an understatement)

That's basically it. If you want a view of my clutch job (with some comments), just scroll down this gallery till you see pics of clutches: http://picasaweb.google.com/reyalsbemus/1964F100Project

I know you have a '66 (different engine/drivetrain) but in terms of process to follow, basic clutch replacement is essentially all the same.

Be sure you have your truck's shop manual on hand. It'll tell you how to remove parts and information on everything, instructions, etc...

It isn't hell unless you get frustrated. Realize going into the job that you will have this and that little issues to work around. Don't let these frustrate you. Take as much time as it takes to do the job properly. Consult buddy mechanics who may be able to help you out.
_____

As far as removing old bolts goes, there are all sorts of different methods for different types and different conditions, so I would just say that if you run into any real problems removing any bolts, just post up the situation here.

As far as a tranny jack goes, you will need one, but you can MAKE one out of a regular floor jack. I'm still in high school but even I was able to rig up a support block no problem. Check out a pic my rigged tranny jack here: http://picasaweb.google.com/reyalsbemus/1964F100Project/photo#5124985291718968194 Made it as simple as just measuring dimensions around the transmission and nailing it together.

Be careful, that's the other thing. You don't know how heavy components are while they are bolted up there. Don't drop the transmission on yourself! Trust me, it sucks. Don't ask.

Oh, and make sure you DON'T overtighten the bolts around the clutch mounting it on the flywheel. Let me tell ya, getting a broken bolt out of the flywheel while under the truck is the biggest pain in the ***.

Either way, if you encounter any situations whatsoever, we're here to help you get past the problem.

You will need jack stands too.

Now get to it!

 

I don't believe it's that difficult it's just that the project can test your patience. Imagine you will get number of members who have different approach to replacing the clutch. Suggest take note and see what works best for you. There are couple schools of though, remove engine and tranny together, or just remove the transmission. If I don't have anything to do to do on the engine I prefer the later. This is pretty much the steps I take.

1. Disconnect the Battery.
2. Remove drive shaft. Suggest tape plastic bags on ends to keep relatively clean.
3. Remove transmission tunnel. Also, there is a cap that secures the shift lever to tranny.****Caution, there is a key/pin located under the cap take precaution in removing it and put it aside, don't want it falling into the transmission.
4. Remove cotter key/pins from clutch assembly. Suggest check the clutch arm assembly bushing and if need replacing it would be a good time to do it. Did mine not too long ago and total cost for parts was around $15. Consist of couple plastic bushing and felt washers. Good idea to grease whether replace or not.
5. Remove starter.
6. Remove bolt securing tranny to crossmember.

I remove the tranny and then the bell housing.

8. As best as I can remember I remove the clutch fork after the tranny is remove. Usually the fork and throw out bearing will set to the bottom of bell housing once the transmission shaft slides out. There is a 'C' clip that holds the fork onto the bell housing just want to make sure you don't lose it.
9.Remove the bolts that holds the transmission to the transmission mount at the crossmember.
10. I remove the cross member from the chassis, there should be 2 bolts on each side.
11. Slide the transmission out using a floor or transmission jack. Caution, that T18 is one heavy mother.
12. If recall, 5-6 bolts holding the bell housing to the engine.
13. Once the bell housing is removed you have access to the pressure plate bolts, 6-8 bolts.
14. Once clutch and pressure plate removed inspect condition of flywheel. If no serious stress cracks and looks in good condition you can use own judgement whether or not to resurface. I don't resurface with every clutch replacement. Removing flywheel is not that much more involved, matter of marking position of flywheel to the crank and removing the bolts, getting the bolts torqued can be problematic.
15. There is also a pilot bushing that sets inside the end of crankshaft the transmission shaft slides into. I don't change it if it looks okay. Getting them out can be problematic. If found a slide hammer with a hook on end usually works.
16. I replace the throw out bearing when ever clutch is replace, don't want to go back to replace it for the $15-$20.
17. I also replace the pressure plate when ever clutch is replace.
18. Definately need a spline key, usually comes with the clutch kit. Use it to center the clutch and pressure plate before installing the assembly.

Then matter of reversing the process. Use the spline key to center the clutch and pressure plate then secure the pressure plate bolts. Once I get the tranny on the floor jack and get tranny into position I slide the crossmember into place to support the rear of the transmission, attach the transmission mount bolts to crossmember.

If all the stars are in alignment the tranny may just slide into place, but not likely. This is the part I find is the big pain in the backside. I have used longer transmission size bolts to get it aligned. If it does'nt slide on I don't suggest pushing the clutch mechanism in, that will release the clutch tension on pressure plate and may need to pull tranny back and recenter. I have had occasions where the tranny slide right into place and then others where it has taken me a day and a half. Recall once using engine hoist thru the cab and supporting thru the tranny tunnel in effort to install. Hopefully, it will go right on, if not, it's time to use imagination.

Post if you have any questions

dave

 

thank you guys for everything. jeff