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Moore you've spiked my interest with that valve body... Money doesn't matter here because I want to spoil my transmission as much as possible. My only hangup is that I've never heard of Gregg... How do I know it's not just a stock valve body and the guy is cashing in $180 for each valve body 'trade' that he does? Anyone else heard of those things before?
Most of the shift kits require you to drill a hole bigger in the seperator plate. That valve body is prob a stock one with the springs in it also. you really cant make passages any bigger. I have a spair valve body so I took all the springs and valves out. There is no way you can make them bigger. So If your just going to swap springs then I can send you my street strip ones lol.
Any trans is expenside to rebuild, not just the E4OD. A master rebuild kit is like 100 bucks or so. I think next time I change my fluid and filter I will throw in the street strip springs and see how she does lol. Ill prob be changing the fluid in an hr after i get annoyed at the super harsh shifts. Lol DJ id get the B&M as I have it and love it, what more do ya need lol.
Any trans is expenside to rebuild, not just the E4OD. A master rebuild kit is like 100 bucks or so.
Most people who have had an E4OD rebuild say it runs between $2500 and $3000 depending on how many parts need to be replaced. So I guess that means about $2400 in labor? I think the rebuild kits cost a lot more than that.
The E4OD is one of the most expensive trannies to rebuild. A C6 is only a few hundred bucks.
I'd also like to get rid of the sloppy shifts in my Bronco. Which kit is better - the transgo or the B&M?
I had a level 10 kit put in my F150 5.0 E40D. The reason why I like the level 10 kit is because it gives you a couple of different firmness options. It comes with a couple different springs so you can change the firmness, depending on what you want. You're not just buying a shift kit with one setting, you have a couple different options. What I like about it is when you're just driving around it don't try to break your neck when you go into 2nd. But when you get on it, it will make the back end come around on ya.
I bought a B&M trans pack for the C6 in my 86 F150, I love the way it shifts, it'll lay about a pound of rubber off each rear tire going into second and third when floored, I used the stiffest set of springs and I'm glad I did. It really doesn't mess around when it comes to shifting, if I floor it it'll turn to about 4500 RPMs and slam into the next gear, nothing slushy about it, it takes maybe half a second to shift. Another added benift is it downshifts and upshifts when I move the shift lever, there is no delay, it shifts when I tell it to.
Aside from firm shifts another benefit of a shift kit is longer tranny life. As dumb as it may sound snappy quick shifts are much healthier for the transmission, they decrease heat, the higher line pressure keeps the clutches meshed together not allowing them to slip. If you add a deep sump tranny pan, along with a big tranny fluid cooler you should have a very reliable E4OD.
The only real downside of a hard shifting tranny is they take their toll on U-joints, to me its a no brainer, replace a $2000.00 tranny or a 5 buck u-joint. I got about 25,000 miles out of my last set before they got a little sloppy, I could of run them longer but I didn't. Remember to buy quality U-joints and grease them frequently.
Shift kits are pretty simple to install, I did mine over 4 or 5 hours on a Saturday afternoon, like was mentioned before keep a eye out for checkballs, if you drop the valve body down slowly without shifting it around you should be fine. I used a couple drops of vasaline to hold my checkballs in place when I reinstalled the valvebody. Since your dropping your tranny pan anyways now would be a good time to get a better one if you want.
I would recommend B&M myself, I've install their kits on my 2 old trucks, and I helped a buddy install on on his TH350. The kit comes with everything you need, and as long as you follow the instructions it should go back together just fine.
The link mentioned by dreo2003 about the electronic shift improver is similar to the B&M electronic shift improver I bought for my 96. Its not a terrible unit but it sucks when compared to a real shift improver. The kit I bought allows you to control 3 different levels of firmness, and allows you some flexibility in choosing your shift points. It was pretty simple to install, the wiring from the control unit simply splices into the tranny wiring harness.
If your looking for real snappy crisp shifts I wouldn't recommend the electronic shift improver, even on level 3 firmness its still real slushy and sloppy when shifting. I'm planning on replacing mine with a B&M trans pack when it warms up outside.
Most people who have had an E4OD rebuild say it runs between $2500 and $3000 depending on how many parts need to be replaced. So I guess that means about $2400 in labor? I think the rebuild kits cost a lot more than that.
The E4OD is one of the most expensive trannies to rebuild. A C6 is only a few hundred bucks.
I'd also like to get rid of the sloppy shifts in my Bronco. Which kit is better - the transgo or the B&M?
I looked up the name of the company selling the rebuilt tranny (Tranz Parts Inc) on the Better Business Bureau website. They have four unanswered complaints against them.
If it looks too good to be true, it probably is. Especially the price.
I got a reman 351 long block from ebay, from a company in AZ, Page was 1275 for enigne and email for freight quote. So it was like 250 I think maybe a bit more. The autction was Buy It Now, or Best offer. So I emailed and was like 1000 for engine and 250 for shipping. They emailed me back and was like will do for 1275. 1 week later, it showed up at my house. Runs like a champ.
Last edited by 95F350XL; Jan 19, 2008 at 05:03 PM.