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Ok I will say this again.... I have a stock turbo with a BD-Power Turbo Boost Builder Wastegate and upgraded wheel. The injectors are 230cc split shot ATS injectors with a TS 6 position adjustable chip. I also have a FASS fuel system , the truck is red, the tires are black.
OK, have fun. Bet it won't see 400. Be careful, good luck. Matter of fact, I predict less than 360. Hope you prove me wrong. If you do, I will be driving to that dyno for some 500 #s.
So what do you have??????? What turbo and injectors? I am predicting less than 400 and you better hope so unless you want to risk windowing that block.
You think more than 400 hp will destroy the block? I dont understand. I have two of my buddies, granted they are running more mods, with stock blocks making over 400 to the rears. One is pushing 480 and has been in his 03 since 05. Most of my friends pay sombody else to do the work on thier trucks so I cant ask them these technical questions and I enjoy doing it myself thats why I am here. I understand that I havent given precise info every time but I am rarely home or have the paperwork in front of me so I try and go off of memory. Besides this deal has been confussing from the start because of all of the changes to the orders.
What year is your truck? Or did I miss that part. I know the blocks with the Powdered metal rods are not good over 390/400 HP. and those are in 01 and newer I think. Not sure what the forged rods can hold.
No, I don't think 400 will destroy a factory block but you have to be careful how you make it. I am under the impression that making it higher in the rpm range is the way to go, higher HP with lower torque until it is twisting. Too much Tq down low and that seems to toast PMRs and even forged rods.
I don't think you will be able to hurt your block with a stock turbo. Yeah this doodad and wheel but still stock. Just be careful. Stock stuff tries to build power down low with lots of Tq. Not sure you can hurt it but who knows. Heck, I may end up windowing mine even with my laggy turbo that really comes on up top.
Tenn01PSD350,
I will be visiting Murfreesburo this summer or fall for a horse show do you know of any shops with a dyno? If so maybe you would like to run your 500#s at the same time to make sure the dyno is right.
My posting name tells the tale here. I have PMRs and am running a GTP38R with a 1.15 housing. Non EBV. I am trying to reduce drive pressure while maintaining boost capability with Hybrid injectors.
Again, I don't see how you can go to the next level without the air required. This is a math formula available on the Garrett site. You can throw all the fuel you want at something but it is to no avail unless it can be combusted eficiently. Black smoke out the exhaust looks cool but makes no more power and is a waste of $$$
I thought diesels didnt like high rpms and would come apart?
Better check out the Cummins or the 6.0, or even the Duramax. Our injector system is about 20 years old. The PMRs are much younger. Cheaper way to build the motor on it's way out. I cannot figure another way to describe it. It does well in stock apps and somewhat beyond but cannot hold up to higher HP/TQ demands. The trick is making it live in higher RPM bands despite the injector limitations. Google common rail and you will see the advantage.
BTW, by higher RPMs, I was referring to the 22-3500 RPM range. Anything over 3k probably risks some valve float in a stock application. They sell better springs for that.
Mike I knew you had an 01 But didn't know what dually77 had. So you COULD build a PMR motor just have to make power in higher RPM's, did I read that right?
Mike I knew you had an 01 But didn't know what dually77 had. So you COULD build a PMR motor just have to make power in higher RPM's, did I read that right?
I wouldn't "build" a PMR motor, but it can be modded to make more HP. That is what I have been told, and what I am trying to find out, as carefully as I can. There are some 400+ HP PMR PSDs running around out there.
Where did you learn all this Mike? PSN teach you alot?
Haha. Good one. Actually here, there, and others. I also spoke with a few people, one of them tunes a lot of trucks here. Seems that too much low end TQ is not a good thing and it is supposed to be safer to make more high end HP and give up the low end TQ. Also, I am trying to minimize excessive/wasted cylinder pressure with a larger turbine housing. Something like that anyway.
I believe the same goes for the stock forged units as well which can be damaged by the same thing with inappropriate tuning. I won't know for sure until I get out to the track and then the dyno. Not going to just beat on it on the street for now. Well, maybe a little bit.
I understand that you must have more air along with fuel to optimize power output but was trying to just get by with the upgraded stock turbo until I learned more about the turbos available on the market. And no I dont want black smoke boiling from my exhaust, I want the truck to be as efficient as possible making every bit of fuel count. I was thinking that the stock turbo would hold together until I found the right one for my application and I needed the truck asap. I did see the high pressure performance valve spring kit and am debating on wether or not that I need it. I understand that these new spring would help prevent floating a valve on the top end but would the stock lower handle the RPM's that the valves would be suited for?