i did the high idle on my truck this weekend piece of cake to easy dont pay the dealer there is step by step cant do it wrong and works great

 

I need some help. I went to do this and I found the two wires....well I went to use the upfitter switch as my switch and I realized that the upfitter switch is hot. I see some guys used them so how in the world do you use one if there hot?

 

and to be honest with you I cannot find where to hook up to an upfitter switch. I read where they are hot in the manual. So do I go all the way to the fuse box where the fuses are?

 

Just shut the damn thing off until you need to use it and the problem is solved.

-mike

 

it seems to me from the diagram that since the upfitter already has power, all you have to do is run a wire from wire 332 to an upfitter switch wherever that is and it will work. Correct?

 

Read the tech file- it is simple. Yes, the switches are powered once installed. The output(s) are blunt cut wires on the eng side of firewall.

-mike

 

thanks Mike sorry to be a problem

 

wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends)

Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:

Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed

 

yes your engine will idle up by itself the problem is it will also idle down by itself WHEN it is half warm if you intend to leave iti dle for an extended time you want it to stay up there. the other factor people miss is that idled up you have much better oil pressure,(cummins on the semis is now saying not to slow idle other than in traffic or when cooling off to shutdown the manual for an 08 diesel semi, yes it has dpf and I really am amazed at the great fuel mileage so are codrivers not joking) the cylinder walls only lubrication comes from the oil flying off the crankshaft, more slinging action at high idle ithink that is actually the biggest thing. with the higher injection pressures since say the 6.0l unless you slow idle for hours in below freezing regularily wet stacks won't do much harm, that said wetstacking can and will foul your egr i believe the only cure for egr is too remove and clean( or remove) the wear from wetstacking itself is a very slow process think taking life off engine not major breakdown. some say to carbon out the egr by working it but the cooler is supposed to keep egr temp down so it can'tpossibly burn carbon off something as far from the cylinder as the egr valve, if the exaust was still that hot the coolant would all flash away

 

yes but that is in reference to OTR semi trucks and older motors, todays light truck diesels should not be left to idle for extended periods due to the wetstacking that was explained earlier in this thread.. that is why the hi idle mod is very useful..

hope this helps.

 

Pardon my stupidity and please Mike dont chime in on this. I dont want to get cussed.
I went to do this and I see all of these wires. There is no light blue 322 wire from the how to follow directions.
After reading this I went to hook the orange wire to the orange and light green wire. There is no power coming from any of those wires listed below when any of the upfitter switches are turned on witht he key on. I take it the orange wire is for the PTO that needs to be powered to tell the comp to tach up.......so I am still looking for how to tap into the upfitter switches. I am sorry in advance if this is so simple but it sure does have me puzzled.

 

check your fuse do you have your owners manuel the dont go to a 30 amp you only need the 10 but first you need to find out why no power does the light on the switch come on

 

once you drop the fuse box you should be able to see the bundle of wires for the upfitter

 

yes i see the fuse in there and i take the test light to confirm. The switches light up if you lift them so the upfitters work. What are the orange and stripped cords? Are those the lines to the upfitter switches??

 

Ok after I went up in there I found it! Thanks RDJ184! It worked!