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Air suspension Conversion Question

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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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Red face Air suspension Conversion Question

Hello, I have a 1997 EB Expedition 4x4 with the four wheel air suspension. I had to replace the compressor about four years ago and now I believe I have leaks. I plan to keep the truck to more for recreation. I do not want to deal with repairing the air suspension so I want to convert it to a standard suspension. I have already looked into various kits. My question is if I convert to a standard suspension, will there be any changes to my power steering. I thought I read some time ago that the two are related somehow and when I have driven with the air suspension off, I have a lot more play in the steering. Thanks for any info. D. Punch
 
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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I did the front end conversion on my wifes 97 a while back and it in no way effected the steering that I could tell. Here's the post I wrote up on the front end conversion, I hope this helps.

Pete

<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">I performed the front air suspension conversion yeasterday to convert from air to normal suspension. I thought I'd right something up to share my experiance and offer some tips for those considering this. The shock conversion I used can be found at the following link. http://www.suncoreindustries.com/fordexp.asp
  1. The first thing to do while the wheels are still on the ground is to remove the upper nut securing the top of the shock absorber.
  2. Then jack the vehicle up and remove the wheel.
  3. Once the wheel is removed place a floor jack under the lower ball joint and use it to raise up the suspension to a normal position.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the upper ball joint, and replace it with a bolt the same size and thread to where it's flush with the stud. (This is done so as to protect the threads and the original bolt from damage) Take a hammer and hit up on the bolt to pop the ball joint loose from the spindle then remove the bolt. Doing this will make removal and installation of the shocks much easier.
  5. Carefully and slowly lower the floor jack to drop the lower part of the suspension as far as it'll go, the upper ball joint should slip out of the spindle while doing this.
  6. Once the suspesion is lowered then removal of the old shock can be performed. Using a openeded wrench slightly larger than the air tubing to the old shock, slip it over the tubing then push in on the colored ring where the tubing attaches to the shock, the tubing should then pull out.
  7. Remove the bottom bolt securing the shock
  8. Pry the old shock out from the top using what ever means you have to compress the shock (I used a couple of open ended wrenches to do this with).
  9. Now comes the tricky part. I found the easiest and as far as I can see the only way to install the new shocks is to compress them about 3" then secure them in a compressed state. I did this by using the loader bucket on my tractor (It was the only thing I could think of at the time, but it worked real well), then using wire wraped from the top of the shock to the bottom to secure them in a compressed state until I could get them installed. I couldn't see where it would be possible to install these without doing this.
  10. Put the top of the shock in first then the bottom and reinstall the bottom bolt on the shock.
  11. Slowly jack the suspension back up using the floor jack making sure the top of the shock is properly located while guiding the upper ball joint back in to the spindle and reinstall the ball joint nut, tighten up, then remove the floor jack.
  12. Once everything is secured and in place the wires used to hold the shock compressed can then be cut and removed, and the top shock bolt installed (insure the rubber bushings are properly centered before doing this).
  13. Tighten up all nuts to spec, the reattach the wheel.
It took me approx. 3 hours to do both sides. I hope this helps those considering this conversion

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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I've done the conversion on my 97 about 2yrs ago and did notice the steering was more sensitive, I believe you can install a universal steering stabilizer kit if you do not like the sensitive steering (which plan on installing one of these days).

BTW here's how I did my conversion when I had enough of the air suspension, I needed a reliable daily driver, as I drove home a few times with the *** down.

I removed the front air shocks first as they were leaking, then installed the front new coil over shocks I bought off of ebay and plugged the front air line at air dryer on the compressor which kept the rear air bags still in use.

Then a 2-3 months later I bought new rear coils from a Ford dealer, and also bought a set of ford rear shocks to install at the same time.

But now I have 4" lift Rancho 5000's shocks for an expedition in the front with a little crank of the torsion bar keys, and set of Trailmaster SSV's (0" lift) in the rear with 1-3/4" polyurethane coil isolaters from Energy Susp. which are made for jeep TJ's but fit nicely.

Also, if you haven't already, when you do the conversion I would also replace the tie rod end links and stabilizer bar bushings. I installed the urethane kit that Energy Susp. has listed for expedition, they really help in tightning up the front end.

I also hope this helps you or anyone considering the suspension conversion.
 

Last edited by waboose; Jan 13, 2008 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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I just converted my '97 about a month ago. I did find that ordering factory ford rear springs and isolators was cheaper than strutmasters or some of the others--$204 delivered. As for the front, the conversion kits you buy are just coilover shocks--strutmasters wants $250 or so when you can buy coilovers from a parts store for $100. My steering is maybe a little soft but I used gas charged non coilover shocks. AS for the annoying little light I just loosened the instrument panel and pulled the bulb. Best move I made after spending $1000 on air parts. I pull a 4 place snowmobile trailer and noticed no difference in towing.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 09:04 AM
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The coilovers I found off ebay were from a private seller who bought the coil overshocks and never installed them, I paid $140 with the shipping. My Check Susp. is still on and it doesn't bother me, but pulling the bulb sounds better than snipping a wire under the dash.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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Here's a link with instructions on removing the dash to pull the light if you're interested.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/377317/Expedition
 
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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madsonp thanks for the link, i'll have to save it and do that as summer project, but the pictures don't mention any bulbs being pulled, or is it pretty much straight foreword after the cluster is off to remove the bulbs?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by waboose
madsonp thanks for the link, i'll have to save it and do that as summer project, but the pictures don't mention any bulbs being pulled, or is it pretty much straight foreword after the cluster is off to remove the bulbs?
It's pretty much stright forward, before you pull the cluster turn your ingition on so the light comes on to get an idea of the location of the light. You could mark it some how (with a piece of tape or something) if you think it'll help. Then once you pull the cluster, reference your mark to insure you get the right bulb, turn the plastic bulb retainer about a 1/4 turn counter clockwise then it should pull stright out, then remove the bulb from the retainer, put the retainer back in (without the bulb of course) and turn it a 1/4 clockwise to lock it back in place. Or you can just leave it out.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by waboose
madsonp thanks for the link, i'll have to save it and do that as summer project, but the pictures don't mention any bulbs being pulled, or is it pretty much straight foreword after the cluster is off to remove the bulbs?
While you're at it, that would be a good time to replace your cluster lights also before any of those burn out. Here's information on those also from another post I'm working.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...sh-lights.html
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 06:39 PM
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I have a 2000 ford expedition EB my check suspension light is on, the compressor works fine I and hear and see it rising, the I do notice that the left side is leaning some.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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Sounds like you have a leaking shock or a hight sensor on that side that might be causing your problem
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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Does anyone have the part numbers to just order the coil overs at a parts store and go that route?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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If you are planning to do a coil over swap or plan to fix the air suspension, I would recommend going through American Air Suspension. The owner Eddie is awesome and will help you all the way through. He was a Ford Tech for over 20 years and knows his stuff.

I did one coil over swap on my Mark VIII and he provided the entire kit and it went perfectly.

Lincoln Air Suspension Parts for 1984 - 2002 automobiles
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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if you do the conversion im looking for the height sensor bracket on the front control arm. im having trouble finding one with a reasonable price. so let me know if you want to sell it
 
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