Rotor Removal

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Jan 12, 2008 | 12:27 PM

danlee

Thread Starter

Postmaster

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 4,270

Likes: 5

From: Delaware

Rotor Removal

My son has a '97 F150 4x4. He needs to change a scored rotor, but it seems to be rusted on. He has a replacement rotor, and it is a 2 piece rotor.
Does he need to remove the wheel hub to change the rotor?

Jan 12, 2008 | 03:14 PM

danlee

Thread Starter

Postmaster

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 4,270

Likes: 5

From: Delaware

We tried this trick that I got from the '97 - 2003 F150 group, and it worked great. We used a 1/2"-13 x 2 1/2 grade 8 bolt and nut, with a couple of flat washers to get the spacing right.

"Buy a bolt about 2" long about the same diameter of the caliper mount hole. Put the bolt in the caliper mount hole with a nut on the backside and tighten bolt. Loosen rotate rotor 180 degrees and tighten it again and it will pop off. Just my rotors last month. "

Last edited by danlee; Jan 12, 2008 at 03:18 PM.

Jan 17, 2008 | 10:21 AM

al52269

Junior User

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 73

Likes: 0

From: Philadelphia, Pa.

Well Guys...
I remove my Front Rotors (03/11/07) out of my 98 Ford Expedition XLT.
I rented a 3 Jaw Puller from Auto Zone and a bottle of PB Blaster and a sledge hammer it only took about one hour or less to take both off...
The way I removed the Front Rotors was ...
1. I put lots of PB Blaster in the back and the front of the rotor to be removed.
2. I put plenty of tension with the 3 Jaw Puller...
3. I hit the back of the rotor with the sledge hammer...
And it came right off...
Hope this helps someone out there...
Al

Jan 31, 2008 | 09:47 PM

romac

New User

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 19

Likes: 0

'00 EB 5.4 exped, Well, after banging on my two front rotors with a sledge hammer for about an hour, I've given up. I can not get them off. She's going to my neighbor's guy who allows you to use your parts... He'll have to torch em, beat em, whatever. This is crazy.

Feb 15, 2008 | 09:33 PM

tomcasino

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2005

Posts: 359

Likes: 1

From: Saint Paul, MN

The mechanic at the brake shop always told me, "heat'em and beat'em".

Feb 16, 2008 | 05:30 PM

romac

New User

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 19

Likes: 0

heat em and beat em

I took the barge in and for 60 bucks, they got ur done. Amazing, I've been told this happens allll the time to these.

Mar 19, 2008 | 12:28 PM

temptee

New User

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 10

Likes: 0

Is the rotor and the wheel hub one piece? I have a '95 150 4x4 and, by looking at it, they apprear to be 2 parts. I need to replace the rotors, once I figure out how to remove the locking hubs (this thread helped). I didn't believe the dealer when they said I needed new rotors becuase of rust, so i had new pads put on. Well, upon inspection, the rotor was really rusted and grooved on the back side and i've ruined the new pads. -bought new pads and rotors and will do myself.

This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level

Verdad Gallardo

Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals

Joe Kucinski

3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership

Brett Foote

10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches

Pouria Savadkouei

Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained

Brett Foote

10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love

Joe Kucinski

10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)

Michael S. Palmer

Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath

Verdad Gallardo

Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer

Joe Kucinski

2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)

Brett Foote

Mar 19, 2008 | 12:41 PM

romac

New User

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 19

Likes: 0

if the '95 F150 is like my '00 exped, the rotor has a flat surface that meets up with the hub flat surface in the area surrounding the lug bolts and over time it welds, rusts, seals itself to the hub. They are seperate pieces, as evidenced by the new rotors. You must spray, heat, pray, whatever, and sledge hammer the you know what out those rotors and they will break free from the hub. All I can say is good luck, cause I was teeing off with a big sledge hammer and could not get mine off. Somehow, the mech did. THe best 60 bucks I've ever spent, see my previous posts above...

Mar 19, 2008 | 12:57 PM

#10

andym

Post Fiend

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 19,402

Likes: 38

From: Bonita Springs FL

The 95 F-150 4x4 is nothing like a newer, sealed bearing truck.

Temptee, I would go to the 87 to 96 forum here and ask/search.

Mar 25, 2008 | 09:36 AM

#11

JOE SKI

Senior User

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 123

Likes: 0

From: northeast Pa

wow, I tried getting mine off yesterday & no luck..from what I read here I'll need a bigger hammer. I like the 1/2" bolt trick though & might try it.

Mar 25, 2008 | 11:52 AM

#12

danlee

Thread Starter

Postmaster

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 4,270

Likes: 5

From: Delaware

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOE SKI

wow, I tried getting mine off yesterday & no luck..from what I read here I'll need a bigger hammer. I like the 1/2" bolt trick though & might try it.

The bolt worked easily on my son's 's '97 F150 4x4, while beating it with a hammer didn't do anything.

Mar 26, 2008 | 08:05 AM

#13

JOE SKI

Senior User

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 123

Likes: 0

From: northeast Pa

I tried the bolt trick with no luck..I'm afraid I'll bend the mtg. arm. I heated it & beat it, even took out the studs to get more juice on it with no luck. I think I'll cut it with the torch, anyone try that before?