Brakes on 4x2: replace hub when replace front rotor?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 584
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From: Austin, TX
Brakes on 4x2: replace hub when replace front rotor?
I've had vibration on braking. Service guy says the rotors are near the end of the useful life. He says that to replace the fronts I will need to replace the hubs too because they are all one unit. Truck is an 00 Limited 4x2 with the V10.
Is this true?
BTW: he's quoting me $160 to turn all four rotors and $980 or so to replace all four. Pads are at 75-85% and will be reused.
Seems a little high for the turn but VERY high for the rotors.
Is this true?
BTW: he's quoting me $160 to turn all four rotors and $980 or so to replace all four. Pads are at 75-85% and will be reused.
Seems a little high for the turn but VERY high for the rotors.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
That doesn't sound right at all.
Get your rotors resurfaced somewhere else. Reburnish your stock pads or replace with Hawks. Stock pads are usually the problem with a lot of the "warped" brake problems folks experience with these trucks.
Make sure it is the brakes creating the vibration. Do you feel the pulse creeping up to a stop with your foot on the brake? Do you only get from a high speed slow down? If so, that points (usually) to the steering components worn or in my case, the need for a stabilizer up front due to road irregularities.
Get your rotors resurfaced somewhere else. Reburnish your stock pads or replace with Hawks. Stock pads are usually the problem with a lot of the "warped" brake problems folks experience with these trucks.
Make sure it is the brakes creating the vibration. Do you feel the pulse creeping up to a stop with your foot on the brake? Do you only get from a high speed slow down? If so, that points (usually) to the steering components worn or in my case, the need for a stabilizer up front due to road irregularities.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Sweet Home Alabama
If you can, pull them off and let a parts store turn them. Most turn rotors for free like auto zone and advance auto. I did that with a bronco and was happy with result. A free check to see what is wrong.
Good luck
Good luck
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
It is high for rotors. You can get some extremely high end/high performance rotors and pads for less than that. Applied rotor technologies sells cryo rotors and pads for all four wheels for 772 plus shipping. I've never seen a rotor turned free, but usually about $10 is normal--sometimes $15. I would NOT reuse pads on new rotors. You're asking for trouble and very shortened rotor life. The front hub/rotor is all one piece on the 2wd units, BTW. Most come with the bearing races already in them, but you'll need new bearings. You should have the rotor thickness checked before they are turned. Minimum should be around 1.417"--at least that's for the 03/04's usually the same.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Sweet Home Alabama
Dang, times changed on me. I did mine at advance auto and I just called them and the franchise gave that up almost 2 years ago they said. Oreilly Auto still does it but now charge 13 for Super Duty, less for pass cars.
Still cheaper than other route, and I agree on never reusing pads.
Still cheaper than other route, and I agree on never reusing pads.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
How tight should be the nut that holds the rotor on? I hand tightened it snugg enough that the rotor spins freely and that the cotter pin can go on, the rotor doesn't shake back and forth.
I just wanna know that I tightened it correctly. Thanks!
I just wanna know that I tightened it correctly. Thanks!
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I'm sure that everyone has their own way, but when I repack I usually tighten the nut tight tight to seat the bearings and back off just a little so it spins freely. Some even have a torque spec, but I don't think the Fords do.
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I'm sure that everyone has their own way, but when I repack I usually tighten the nut tight tight to seat the bearings and back off just a little so it spins freely. Some even have a torque spec, but I don't think the Fords do.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
Old thread resurrected.
I'm doing my brakes today. Rotor and bearing are NOT one assembly. Rotors are repackable...like all should be.
I'm still searching for the torque specs and procedures. I KNOW they're here somewhere...
I'm doing my brakes today. Rotor and bearing are NOT one assembly. Rotors are repackable...like all should be.
I'm still searching for the torque specs and procedures. I KNOW they're here somewhere...
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