Well now I did ask him about it and he said it was OBD2 but I have not seen it for myself. The hood was down and the doors where locked when I stopped and looked it over briefly last night.
And yes I do get the impression talking to the guy on the phone that he doesn’t really know much about it, and that he doesn’t do his own work so he may just be guessing.
He did say they wanted 2500 bucks to fix it, that is way to much as it is not that hard to repair what happen to it and the parts are not that much either.

 

Back on topic again, but sounds to me like he's getting too much fuel when the engine's warm. Regardless of temperature, the ECM starts in Open Loop mode, and has timers to keep it such. Some timers drop out more quickly than others for turning on various parts of the loop, such as the ECT versus the HEGO. Normally, the engine would be warm only if it's been run recently, meaning fuel has bled from a leaking fuel pressure regulator or injector into the plenum. Holding the throttle open to start it is a pretty good indication of that. I didn't see if the problem occurs immediately after shutting it off, or after it sits a few minutes, but still trying to start a warm engine. If it starts good cold, there's a pretty simple test that will let you know if it's leaking fuel.

Crank the engine, run til warm, normal driving to where you're going so as not to waste fuel. When you get where you're going, shut the engine off. As quickly as possible after you shut the engine off, push the throttle to the floor, and try to start the engine. If the FPR is not leaking, nor any fuel injectors, it WILL NOT START. The ECM will turn the injectors off at WOT during start. If the engine starts at WOT, it's getting fuel it should not be getting. If it does start, obviously, take your foot off the throttle. You now know if you have a leak that shouldn't be. Pull the hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if you see wet fuel in the hose or on the nipple of the fuel pressure regulator. If you do, replace the FPR. If not, you're going to need some slightly more sophisicated testing. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge, a hand vacuum pump, and a paper clip. Jumper the fuel pump test connection at the DCL to ground with the paper clip and some wire. Connect the vacuum pump to the FPR. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the rail. Turn the key on, and the fuel pump should run continuously. With zero vacuum, your fuel pressure should be close to 45 PSI. Increase vacuum, and fuel pressure should drop. If it doesn't, replace the FPR. Release the vacuum, and pressure should go back to 45 as quickly as the vacuum is released. If it doesn't, replace the FPR. When pressure is back to 45 PSI, turn the key off, and monitor the pressure on the rail. It should maintain pressure for at least 10 minutes, with no more than 5 or 6 PSI drop. If your pressure is dropping quicker, you possibly have a fouled injector. If this is the case, you're probably going to want all 8 serviced. Otherwise, it's just a matter of time WHEN, not IF, the problem comes back.

Bear in mind, if you jumper the fuel pump test connection, you will generate a code 95 in the ECM. Not a biggie, just informational. Grounding that signal bypasses the output from the ECM to the fuel pump relay. The ECM senses this as a failure, but it really isn't. It probably won't turn on the CEL because you'll remove the jumper before ddriving the truck. The beauty of this test is that it can be done on a cold engine, where there's no risk of flash fire from fuel vapors. Be very careful messing around with the fuel system.

 

Have you put a timing light on it my truck yous' to do the same identical thing come to find out i was about a thickness of a dime off time put it in time never had any more troubles out of it till the 320,000 miles come into play (lol)

 

Good chance it's a leaky FPR. The fuel gets into the manifold through the vacuum line, flooding the engine out fairly quickly once it is turned off. If the truck sits long enough, the fuel evaporates and it starts normally, but when hot it puddles in the manifold and the engine must be cranked until the excess fuel is drawn off.