Hey guys,
I got a 55 F100 and it does not have a vin number anywere that I can see.
And The guy I got it from hasen't locate the paper work for it yet. If worse comes to worse what can I do to get it register after its resored if anything??
Also Another question. The truck was originally a 6cyl. but there is no motor or tranny in it colum shift with clucth pedal in cab, I do have the drive shaft. What i am thinking of doing is putting in a 460 and either a c4 or c6 and let the clutch pedal just sit there.
The question is with the motor and either trany would the original drive shaft be the proper length?? I don't plan on using the shaft but need to know from those that have rebuilt already if the shaft would be of proper length as not to have one custom made.
thanks

 

calrife,
Welcome to FTE! Lots of good folks and good info here. I'll try to answer a few of your questions, but I'm no help of the driveshaft length. There should be a dataplate with the VIN on the inside of the glovebox door. If the plate has been removed, then look on the top of the drivers side frame rail or on the top of the crossmember under the radiator. It should be stamped there and begin with "F10". Registration will depend on where you are located.

Good Luck!

 

thanks I looked in all the usual places and was not sure of any out of the way places. I will look were you said to tonight as there is no radiator but I might have difficulty on the top of the frame rail but will try. Diden't even think about inside of glove box.

 

You definitely will not want to use the original rear axle with a 460 or most modern engines for that matter. So the driveshaft length will depend on what rear axle you chose to use and exactly where you mount the engine. Having a driveshaft cut to length is not expensive and they can put whatever yokes will fit the ujoints even if they are different at each end at the same time, it's not worth worrying about trying to make a stock one work.

 

Most states have special procedures for registering antique and special interest vehicles without original VIN #s, but not every DMV clerk will be familiar with the process.
If you can find the VIN # on the frame, that is the "official" # the plate on the GB door was for convenience. Being able to show that # will ease having a new registration issued.
Be sure to get a notarized bill of sale from the seller just in case.

 

I never wanted to use the stock shaft. I was just curious on the length. I plan on using a 9" axle rebuilt to handle the power from a 460. I also plan on trying to mount the engine as close as possible to were it would have been to keep the weight balanced. Plus rebuilding the front end for the added weight from the 460 seeing is it was originally a V6.
thanks also for the vin info.

 

there are two places on my 55

1. clear screwed on plate on the glove box door
2. On my chassis, passenger side, top frame rail, between the front suspension and the cab face is the stamped in vin.. impossible to read until the frame was cleaned (in my case sand blasted)..

I have heard, but never seen one, that some have the vin stamped on the front cross member trailing edge near the radiator.. visible straight down from the rad.

Sam

 

Just line the tranny mount up with the crossmember and you'll be good to go as far as front to back location. Don't worry the front suspension is plenty stiff enough to handle the weight, most remove a few leafs to soften the ride and lower the truck. Also don't worry about weight distribution, all pickup trucks old or new are way nose heavy without a load, Chrysler Hemi to Pinto 4 isn't going to make any significant difference.

 

Well I am going to lower it. but not hug the ground. I was also considering just replacing the leaf springs all together. the nice thing is the staight axle in the front thats going to help alot.
I put the fist photos of it in my profile. this was before we got it to my buddies house and out of the sage brush. All I need to do now is put $$ aside and start refurbishing the exterior first. But take a look at the photo's this truck has been a desert truck its hole life the only rust I found other than surface is on the step rails. o other cancer yet I havent removed anything from the frame yet either.
It even has the original badges and dash clust and steering colum with shifter I was planning on getting some better picks of it today and posting them.

 

You may want to first decide on what the truck will be "when it grows up"
Realistically evaluate your financial situation, skill level, time commitment, work space etc. It always takes 3 times as long and costs twice as much as your most conservative estimate! also skill level, budget and time are all inversely proportional decreasing any of the three will quickly increase either/both of the other 2.
On average bringing your truck up to finished driver/cruiser state will cost about 15-20K, require 2-5 years of indoor shop time if you can do most of the work yourself and don't go overboard with aftermarket parts.
Then make a plan of what changes will be needed, what order they should be done in, who is going to do them and what the costs will be. If you are not sure how to fill in any of the blanks just ask for advice/experiences on here, there's someone here who has gone down the same trail before you.
A desert truck is a good start (my truck came from NM) as far as solid sheet metal base. If you don't discover any surprises in the cab corners, door bottoms, floor pan, etc. I would leave the body alone for now and concentrate on the mechanicals. Fortunately "patina" is quite in right now, and it makes the mechanical work and parts storage much more difficult if you are working around and worrying about fresh body work. You'll be disassembling and reassembling the sheet metal so many times you'll know exactly what size wrenches are needed and how many fasteners there are before the truck ever rolls back out of the garage again.

 

You hit it on the mark. Everything has been considered and thought about. two options will be built up to rat rod standards or take a few years and do a show room resto the whole way. I am very mechanically incline and have some experience in body work. pretty much the only thing it would possibly ever go to some one else for is paint. So far I can rebuild either my 302 block or 460 block becouse of what they came with and low $$ that I paid for them to rebuild them will cost between $2,000 and $2,500 with mild go fast motor parts. I have two or three classic truck part retailer catalogs that yeah over time if you put it all together the$$ will add up.
I do believe your estimation in price is in the general ball park on your lower level.
but 2-5 years is about right considering work and family time.

 

I'd suggest getting it to a drivable status then do the body a panel or section at a time. Being able to drive it is a rewarding benchmark and makes the rest an easier sell to the SO. Engine choice is a personal decision, but unless you plan on doing some major towing the 302 might be the better option IMHO. Will put out about the same power for the $ and be more nimble and economical. But before I spent 2.5K on either I'd look around for a good low milege 351W.

 

Well I know that a 351 is a good motor I have just never been a fan of them even in the Mustangs for me its 302 or 428. But all in all the price for the motors I have was right. Especially the one 302 block being it is an 86 with the high nickle, no ring ridge evedent and under 90,000 miles I've torn it completely down and it looks to be very sound just need to hot tank and magna flux. The 460 is torn down to the crank and pistons I believe I read it to be a 71 block. Not to much is known about this motor other than it was a prodject rebuild that was started and then stopped, so another complete tear down and check the crank and magna flux just to be safe, the block its self is clean.
honestly I thought about rebuilding the 302 first and the 460 next and swap motors before I go to the strip years from now HAHAHAHA.
But like you commented on the towing stuff yes you are right which brought up a funny subject between me and my buddies about having the 460 in it and taking to truck pulls