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I was thinking of making my own Air separator. I was thinking about something simple such as a 2" pipe that is capped on each end and oriented in the vertical direction (just like a spin on fuel filter). The fuel inlet would need to go at the top of the separator and the outlet to the engine would need to go at the bottom of the separator. Also at the top, I was planning to put an outlet with a small orifice that fed back into the return line. I also thought about putting some baffles in the separator to keep things from sloshing around. My thought was that the fuel would go into the separator and the air would work its way to the top and travel through the orifice and back to the return line. The separator would also need to be downstream of the pump so that it to keep it under pressure. I just wondered what size orifice I would need to have so that I wouldn't starve the engine of fuel. Doing the math, assuming 5gph is bled throught the orifice @ 60psi, I calculate an orifice diameter of 0.0227 in. Does this sound right?
The reason I am doing this is because my stock fuel bowl is leaking and I am planning to replace it with primary and secondary filters somewhere near the fuel pump. What do you guys think?
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If you are going to go through all that, just migrate your fuel pump to the end of the fuel pickup.
You don't need to separate any air from the fuel that way - no air gets introduced in the first place.
Read this thread for more information. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-the-tank.html
If you are going to go through all that, just migrate your fuel pump to the end of the fuel pickup.
You don't need to separate any air from the fuel that way - no air gets introduced in the first place.
Read this thread for more information. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-the-tank.html
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Yes, I read that post. Did you ever switch to a wire with a fuel resistant insulation. Are you still running your orifice @ the back of your heads?
Yes, I read that post. Did you ever switch to a wire with a fuel resistant insulation. Are you still running your orifice @ the back of your heads?
Still running the air bleed oriface that I put on three years ago.
I did replace the wire, but not for the insulation melting.
What happened was the wire that I used was too thick of a gauge and it broke the eye connection that I soldered onto the end of the wire.
I put in a 14 guage wire, looped it like a telephone wire, zip tied it down so it wouldn't budge and then rigged up a plastic sleeve that goes around the outside shoulder of the pump and keeps the sloshing fuel from pushing on the wire. I don't have pictures of it, but it kind of is in the shape of a stove pipe coming off of the top of the pump. It's all held in place with the same clamp that goes around the waist of the pump in the pictures in my gallery.
The insulation was just the same as when I put it in, so I quit worrying about it.
Still running the air bleed oriface that I put on three years ago.
I did replace the wire, but not for the insulation melting.
What happened was the wire that I used was too thick of a gauge and it broke the eye connection that I soldered onto the end of the wire.
I put in a 14 guage wire, looped it like a telephone wire, zip tied it down so it wouldn't budge and then rigged up a plastic sleeve that goes around the outside shoulder of the pump and keeps the sloshing fuel from pushing on the wire. I don't have pictures of it, but it kind of is in the shape of a stove pipe coming off of the top of the pump. It's all held in place with the same clamp that goes around the waist of the pump in the pictures in my gallery.
The insulation was just the same as when I put it in, so I quit worrying about it.
I recommend around .008". The one that I have is roughly twice that size and IMO it's too big. Still haven't gotten around to changing it.
One side effect of having that bleed off is there is a LOT more fuel flowing through the filter and it turns black in a hurry. By design, only the fuel that is used by the injectors actually passes through the filter. All the rest of the fuel that is pumped gets returned to the fuel tank via the pressure regulator. Adding the air bleed oriface vastly increases the amount of fuel that is filtered because the port is at the opposite end of the fuel rails from the filter. I just changed mine out yesterday and in less than 5000 miles it was as black as coal. A smaller oriface would be helpful in extending filter life.
I moved my pump inside the tank and couldnt be happier. No air getting into the injectors, and better performance.
Did you do it the same as Kwik or did you find another way to do it? Same pump or different?
I have the ITP kit to redo the pickup and I've been thinking of just moving the pump. My truck is so much quieter with a full tank. Especially when I fill it up to the top of the filler neck. It gets real quiet for about 100 miles or so.
My racecar is consuming my time right now but the truck mods are on the horizon.