As for coolant I wouldn't even use anything but the Motorcraft Gold.... I know it works just fine in our motors.

 

DSCHUFFERT, I saw your pics, appears to be a nice simple install. After posting my questions, I read A LOT about the filter setup from Dieselsite and the sand in the casting process, wear on the water pump, etc. - I think that will be my next project...draining the antifreeze and refilling with a quality HOAT product and installing a filter...going to tackle that AFTER I figure out if I have an injector i$$ue or what...

This site continues to be an awesome resource for me! ...hopefully I can contribute now and then.

 

The coolant filter was the easiest install I have done. I plan on changing my setup over the next couple of months. Someone posted some pics this week where they were able to mount both their oil bypass filter and the coolant filter under the hood.

I completely agree, this site and the people on it are fantastic, I have learned so much from everyone on here!

 

Quick question, where can I buy the coolant test strips ?

 

You can buy the coolant test strips at your local International dealership. I understand that Napa may sell an equivalent product. If you use the Motorcraft Gold Coolant, you do not need to test the coolant.

If you do need to buy the strips for some reason, look at the expiration date stamped on the back of the package. They do go bad. They are around $8 for a pack of 4 strips.

 

Where are the pics for mounting both filters

 

How difficult is it to get to the block drain plugs, how many are there, and where are they located on the 6.0???

 

Hello all

From memory Qty of 2 ( Each side of block ) rather easy to gain access to

Suggest you also do a Coolant FLUSH if you are draining and replacing with NEW coolant of your choice

While you have the block drain plugs removed also suggest you take your wet/dry vac and suck out any remaining OLD fluids --- then replace all drain plugs and install NEW coolant --- I also drained the factory over flow container of OLD coolant + disconnected and drained lowest point radiator Hose --- my goal was to get as much of the old fluid with flush out of system PRIOR to installing new

Hope this helps

 

Modify my last message --- ONE was easy to get to

The other one I had to remove the starter --- drain plug behind same --- but it wasnt a big deal to remove starter

Have a great one all

 

Wow... I am shocked.... Ford makes a great coolant that works, will not void one's warrenty, is readily available at any Ford dealer and when used with distiled water gives you all the protection one needs.

Why spend more time and money using something else???????

Here is what you do.... (I do it every 50,000 miles just becuase it is fun to do and I am **** about my maintanence).

1) Buy 4 galons of Ford Premium Gold coolant at dealer

2) Buy 15 gallons of distilled water at local grocery store.

3) Drop lower radiator hose until empty.

4) Reconnect hose and add distilled water to degas bottle until full.

5) Drive truck until temp guage goes to normal and thermostat opens.

6) Repeat steps #3 through #5 no less than 4 or 5 times (depends on distilled water amaount used) - I can't remember?

7) You now have 100% distilled water in your system.

8) Drop lower hose 1 last time, drain and reconnect.

9) Look in manual for your system capacity and for a 50/50% refill of coolant just add the coolant straight into your degas bottle up to the amount that equals a 50/50% concentration.

10) Start motor and add distilled water to bring system level to the MIN mark on degas bottle.

11) Drive truck around to open thermostat and let cool 1 or twice to purge any air. May need to add more distilled water (don't add coolant)... but when done you have flushed your entire system and have a perfect 50/50% concentration of coolant and distilled water!!!!

The dealer only uses tap water and so does most other places... distilled is best in order to keep the minerals out of your system.

Good luck.....

Quick, simple and can be done in about 90 minutes!!!!!

 

I agree with the above recomendation... I wouldn't take any risk with using some other brand of coolant as it could clog your EGR cooler and cause serious engine damage. Go to your local Ford shop and purchase the gold coolant. Also I followed the same procedure from Beachbumcook including using distilled water as this is what the owners manual recommends. I wonder why the dealers ignore the distilled water recommendation?

 

Good advice! I plan on following it for my next radiator fluid change in about 15,000 (I'll have 100,000 then).

 

Dealers and most/all shops use tap water due to being cheap and readily available. Many shops do just a drain and refill and some will use a flush machine, but it is still tap water.

It would cost them to much money, more "water" to inventory and they would have to raise their cost. As well, I think that it is "old school" thinking... that tap water works fine when it gets changed out frequently... but then again... it all depends if one's water is soft, hard or has lots of chlorine in it????

My neighbor uses a local shop for his Honda cars and brings in his own distilled water for the shop to use. Obviously his honda uses less of it and the mechanic knows why (and agrees) on why he prefers distilled versus tap.

 

The best part of doing the "flush procedure" I have outlined above is that one does not need to worry about the drain plugs in the engine block.

Flush, re-flush and fill with the appropiate 50% mixture of Ford Premium Gold coolant.

Never worry about overheating, clogging up the system and everything stays nice, clean and lubricated.

 

Is there any advantage to removing the lower radiator hose instead of using the petcock on the bottom of the radiator? Seems to me it would be easier, though slower, to flow the coolant out of the petcock.

How much coolant comes out when you drain it? (i.e. how big of a pan do I need). Judging by the way my first coolant filter looked at 300 miles (below) I think a good flush and refill is definitely in order.



TIA!