Use the lower radiator hose... it is quicker and any sediment will run out faster. I also opened the lower petcock the first time in case there was anything stuck on the backside of it.

It took probably 4 filters before my system became clean. Just flushing and refilling is good, but the sediment collects in the lowest parts of your motor and system and never will get flushed out 100%. The only way is to drive your truck and while the system is under pressure and moving coolant and sediment throught it... the filter will eventually catch it.

My dealer changed out my lower radiator hose under warrenty when new (so I got basic drain and refill) and I flushed my system before installing my dieselsite coolant filter... and I got a bunch of stuff out... still!!!

Just flush your system per the instructions I posted above and change your filter every 500 -1,000 miles (based upon your photo above) or so until they start coming back clean (when you cut them open).

I figure there is about 4 - 5 gallons that comes out each time you drop the lower radior hose. I just let it go on the ground and wash it down well when I am done.

The only way for your system to become clean of any sediment or sand is to just keep using the coolant filter and let the motor push it through your system when under pressure and moving large volumes of coolant through it as you drive... this is the only way to "move" the sediment that has collected in the lower sections of your motor and cooling system.

Now you see why (your photo above) why people's EGR coolers clog up and head gaskets blow!!!!!!

 

Some folks mix some Simple Green with the flushing water. Do you think that would help at all?

I'm thinking I'll just dump like you said above, and fill back up again with distilled water. Drive a 100 miles or so, dump, and refill with distilled water again. Do this about 4 or 5 times over the course of the next few weeks (or few hundred miles), and then dump one more time and fill with G-05 (after reviewing the owners manual for coolant system capacity).

I could dump a cup or two of simple green in with each 5 gallons of water, if it would help any.

Are there any negative ramifications of running the engine on a mixture of 99% distilled water (as long as the temps aren't near freezing, of course)?

Thanks!

 

Simple: Because last I checked, there were no Ford dealers open at 02:00, and there's not a Ford dealer in every town. USUALLY if the town has a WalMart, it's also going to have a Ford dealer, but not always. And in the middle third of the country, it may be 30-50 miles to the Ford dealer. And given the recent trends of eliminating a substantial number of dealers, this may become an honest problem for those of us who do not live in major metropolitan areas. In particular, both NAPA and CarQuest have parts stores in towns that neither Ford nor WalMart have ever heard of.

Yes, I know, it's picking nits, but in certain situations, (i.e. emergencies) it's a good idea to have options. As finicky as the 6.0 is about so many other things, it might be a good idea to know which coolants won't make the 6.0 explode on contact.

(and in the "for what it's worth" department, I've been told that there's a SUBSTANTIAL difference between DEX-Cool (aka death-cool) and Shell/Rotella ELC coolant (usually available at truckstops and truck dealers). Rotella is what resulted when Shell actually COMPLETED the development process started on death-cool, and has had virtually none of the problems that death-cool had.)

-blaine

 

I just did mine yesterday. Got 3 gallons out of the drain **** of the radiator, pulled the one block plug that was easy to get to (drivers side) with a ratchet and a hex socket, Got approximately 1/2 gallon out of it. I then filled up with distilled water and drove it to circulate, then drained 3-plus more gallons out of the radiator and then refilled with approximately 31/2 gallons of Motorcraft Gold coolant. Had 1,400 miles on my first filter and it looked all sludged up. I cut it open and got the inner filter out. Could hardly blow thru the open-end of the filter. See my post on "water filter hose blew off".

 

Ethylene Glycol based coolant is the only coolant recomended in the 6.0 powerstroke... Anything else and your asking for problems!

Also in an emergency situation, the recomendation is to simply add plain water until you can get the correct anti freeze.

 

Beachbumcook,

1. How many times did you have to change the filters at the 500 - 1k mile interval until the filters cleaned out?

2. After the filters cleaned out, what's the interval for changing filters thereafter?

 

If I remember correctly, I went 5,000 or 6,000 miles on my first coolant filter? Mine never plugged up, but maybe that is due to flushing my system with distilled water and fresh coolant at the same time I added my coolant filter?

It appears that some filters plug in hundreds of miles and others in thousands of miles... so it appears each motor is different... and if one flushed their system prior to installing the coolant filter.

I just keep an eye on the "return line" flow into the degas bottle... but my first 3 filters got changed out every 6,000 miles or so (over-kill I am sure) and then I just do it monthly as my last 2 or so filters just have afew grains of sand here and there.

Becuause this system is a by-pass filter system, one's motor needs to get up to pressure and temperature and then circulate the coolant... I am not sure of what the percentage is... but the filter only filters/flows about 10% of the flow at any one time... so putting it in now and going for a summer or weekend drive will move the sediment around and eventually into the filter... this is why it takes several filters over several months to really clean one's system.

 

Thanks Beach,

My truck actually turned 100k miles today and my warranty is now history. This will be my first mod in the near future.

 

Do it sooner rather than later.

The photos of what people have posted and are shown on the dieselsite.com website are proof enough at how beneficial this coolant filter is.

By the way, the photos that dieselsite.com shows in the 6.0L section are my actual photos that I sent them. Up until that point, there were no actual cut open filters and actual testimonials.

I was so impressed with what this filter got out... even after doing a coolant flush before I installed, that I just had to let dieselsite.com know as well as everyone else.

A picture is worth a 1,000 words... and my dealer has been very impressed when I showed the install and the photos (to my diesel tech at the dealership). They saw no warrenty issues by having this installation, but that is them (but they could see actual images of how it works).

 

I couldn't agree more with Beachbumcook. After seeing my first filter at 1400 miles and listening to all of the comments about them, i'm beginning to wonder if alot of people's problems would have been eliminated if there had been filters on from the start. The dieselsite filter is easy, neat, and professionally designed.

 

the dieselsite's bracket to hold the filter housing is not of the best design. Also, i would not have used thin guage aluminum for the "t" into the heater hose (brass a better choice here).
i have seen much better from FTE members that custom fabbed one themselves.

also, ford/international must have done something different for my '07 block because cutting my filter open after 5,000+ miles it was empty (and i have heard this from several others as well).

i am going to remove my dieselsite filter and if i want to continue filtering my coolant system i may install a simple billet fuel filter (plumbed bypass) to catch the very few particles circulating (i have a Magnafuel MP-7008 25 micron w/ reusable stainless element).
this may be an option as well for those whose filter is no longer catching the debris it did when first installed.

 

Why would you now "un-install" your dieselsite coolant filter once it is installed? Why not just leave it in and working and be happy your motor never had an issue like many others have had... or know that that it is always protecting your system?

As far as the aluminum "t" into the heater hose, I have not heard of any breaking and if a hose came loose, it is becuase the clamp was not tight enough. To use brass the "t-fitting" would be very heavy and this is visiable from the "home-made" fittings that people have made... but hey... toeach their own.

I have yet to hear of the dieselsite.com "t-fitting" breaking and it is a simple one-piece, light-weight design that has worked very well.... but I guess I could be wrong.

Good luck on whatever you decide... but at least the filter shows that Int'l has made your motor well (less sand at least) and that the filter has proven this out (that alone is worth the price you paid for that peace of mind).

 

---------



why not leave it in? i could.. i guess i just like stock simplicity (fewer things to break). Also, if i ever wanted to do an oil bypass i would put it where the coolant filter is now.

re "T" fitting: i never understood the weight arg in favor of the dieselsite aluminum fitting vs a brass fitting. A standard brass fitting will "barb" better and resist corrosion. I do see a larger inner diameter in the aluminum, but flow should be aqaquate w/ either.

As an aside, for typ. install, the "T" fitting in the heater hose rests on exposed wiries (only wrapped in elec. tape). This puts the hose clamps in a position to wear through the wire insulation. I wrapped the fitting/clamps w/ a heat sheild to mitigate

kinda arcane aside to the original topic but i hope somebody somewhere is seeing something that they had'nt seen before and this is'nt all just

 

My oil by-pass is above the frame rail by the driver's door. I have a Racor built/designed system (same as Oil Guard) and the size is too large to go where the coolant filter is usually installed. I can also show you documented oil analysis of "before and after" results that show the wear metals and insoluables are not affected... hence... a waste of money. I track all oil results in an Excel spreadsheet and my "after results" are within .1 (insoluables) of my "before" readings. Therory is good, but the OEM/Racor full-flow oil filter and CJ4 oil and changing every 5,000 miles is ALL you need.

I challange anyone to show me their Blackstone oil reports (several before and several after showing signifigant improvement)... as I am willing to share mine.

The coolant filter is the best mod out there and it is proven to work.

I also promote the use of a Magnefine brand p/s fluid in-line filter to keep one's p/s fluid clean. Only costs $15.00 and 1qt of p/s fluid to install.

 

I got to point out something here that I've learned about Beachbum... I don't think his expedition doesn't have a single drop of fluid that doesn't get filtered and/or refiltered!