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I don't know if someone makes anything, but I make my own mounts with some flat stock steel, drill, and a saw. Then just a matter of picking out the right belt. I used the CS144 off an Olds 98. (Actually this alternator is in abundance at junk yards). It is the biggest they sell at parts stores. It puts out 140 amps. Don't confuse it with the CS130, they look the same. Otherwise, nippon denso puts out nice 90 amps models that are a little cheaper. Challenger makes the best, but they cost a fortune. Best alternators though, 200 amps at idle is very good.
Most of that pre-made stuff is for the car audio crowd, usually small foriegn cars, suburbans, or astro vans.
Well, whats on it now is a 95-amp alternator, for a 95 and up truck. I toasted the old 75-amp,(I think it was 75)so when I replaced it I got the newer 95-amp. Almost bolted right in, all I had to change was the connection for the battery cables. Anyway, what I'm running are A LOT! of lights, and the 95-amp alternator just doesnt have the guts to keep up with the power demand. So I wanted to add a second alternator, like the diesels have. And there is no such thing as too much, cause I can always add more lights(which I plan to do anyway) I like lights:-)
I guess you must like lights, they aren't really a high current device, so you must have alot of them.
A couple things I can recommend are making sure you run a big enough wire to carry the current to the lights and making sure all connections are good. Never use small wire to be cheap, it doesn't take much small wire to present a load by itself. Also, never run an alternator on a dead battery. This could kill the alternator. Alternators are not battery chargers. Consider getting a couple golf cart batteries and wire them in series, since they are 6 volts. They have a monster reserve capacity that will carry lots of lights thru the night. Just be sure to charge them up at times. When shopping for batteries, always look for reserve capacity and pay no mind to cold cranking amps. You could hook up a trickle charger permanently to your batteries, and plug it in when not using your truck. Alot easier than fooling with 2 alternators and cheaper too.
Oh, another thought came to mind. Change the stock pulley to a smaller one. That way it will spin faster and you'll be putting out more amps at idle. Most alternators barely charge at idle. Running your old alternator on semi charged battery all the time is most likely what killed it. Keeping your battery charged is the goal here.
You could go to the parts store and tell the you need a alternator for a F-350 or E-350 with the ambulance package they are 180 amps, but the are a little pricey.
The one at ebay is a genuine Ford part, it has the number F794 B 312 US. I almost bought it myself before posting it here, but I like the dual setup better so I can turn one on or off.
The only problem being the warranty. Do you have a alternator shop in or near your town? Go talk to them about some options.
I still like the cs144. Its small, powerful, easy to fix, plenty of junk ones around, and comes with a regulator.
just thought id throw in that when I was more into audio a few years ago, guys used to pay somebody here in town to rebuild their stock alts to put out 200amps. Never really pressed how it was done exactly, but I suppose he added better/bigger magnets and wire with more turns on it. How he squeezed it all in a stock case is beyond me, but a few guys paid thru the nose to have it done sometimes.
Of course, they also shell out for those high priced dry-dell batteries and 1 Farad capacitors too. I never really had a use for all that, just give me lots of golf cart batt.s and I could make all the noise you could stand. Till I almost blew the rear window out of my ride. I was running 6000 watts max OUTPUT with 2 alts totaling 230amps and could kill 3 ave batts in 5 minutes. Golf cart ones last much longer, but takes longer to charge too, gotta sleep sometime
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