4.2 engine removal problem?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Tranny or not to tranny
I am just in the process of finishing an engine swap in my 97 2 wheel drive. And I can tell you that there is no way you are going to pull that engine with the tranny attached. As a matter of fact I left the AC condensing coil in and just barely had room. It was a wiggle and squirm situation. Your welcome to try but I think this will lead to a suicide.
Good luck and Happy New Year,
Chris
Good luck and Happy New Year,
Chris
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Not necessary
We just finished an engine swap in my '97 2WD. Unbolting / rebolting the tranny isn't easy, but as Cvan said you aren't likely to get the engine out with the tranny attached. It's an amazingly tight squeeze considering the amount of room under the hood. And if you can pull the A/C condenser, do it - we didn't, and mine came out rather the worse for wear as a result. Still works, fortunately.
RH
RH
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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If you pull the crank shaft pulley before removing the engine you can leave the condenser coil in. Just unbolt it so it can move around. My Ford crate engine came with the pulley installed and I didn't want to remove it so I placed some aluminum sheet between the new engine pulley and the condenser to protect it. Worked well but was a tight fit.
Chris
Chris
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 26
I didn't find anything unusual in pulling the trans on my wifes '97. I used a six-point socket, a universal joint, and long extensions so my angle to the bellhousing would be as shallow as possible. Just normal practice. Long-handled flex-head ratchets are very nice for this.
I pull condensers and radiators on most engine changes (any vehicle) as a convenience if they are at all close to the engine. They come off quickly and leave more room to work.
I pull condensers and radiators on most engine changes (any vehicle) as a convenience if they are at all close to the engine. They come off quickly and leave more room to work.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 352
Likes: 1
From: uk
hi, all advise spot-on, its real tight to get out and has to be as level as posable so taking the radiator off is again advisable and watch out for the thin earth strap. the bell housing bolts are a nightmare and again long extension bars are needed to reach them. good luck bokker.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2007
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I think you guys misunderstood me, What i meant was mitchell on demand says in oreder to pull the motor you must first remove the transmission. All I was trying to do was avoid pulling the tranny. At any rate the motor is out now hanging on a hoist. I suspect you may have to pull the tranny on 2wd due to interference between the engine oil pan and frame crossmember not allowing the motor to come forward enough to disengage the tranny. any way just thought i'd set it straight
later
fordkev
later
fordkev
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New User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24
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From: Northeast
4.2 removal
I bought a 97 with a grenaded 4.2 for 500.00 and Theres no way Im pulling the tranny.You do need a good assortment of tools though. Bellhousing bolts are one of the reasons why long extentions and universals were made.Removing the waterpump and the crank pully will buy you extra room.I left the A/c condenser in with the pump laying on the pass side radiator support still connected.Im about 2 hrs away from pulling mine and I see the rotten exhaust studs giving me more problems,Ill cut them and deal with them when its out. Good Luck
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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If you don't pull the tranny your just asking for a boat load of problems. I've had mine out twice and it is not that big a deal. Just for the records a bad clutch master cylinder will lead to a burnt up throw out bearing. Anyway, take your time,pay attention to where the parts came from and you will be glad you took the time to remove you transmission. Taking shortcuts is not always the route to success.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 26
I'm pulling a hydrolocked '97 4.2 over the next couple days. Yanked the accessories today.
Since it's an auto I'm leaving the trans in place.
There is ample room with the radiator removed. Pull the power steering pump/reservoir leaving the hoses connected, ditto the AC pump, and swing out of the way. The fittings in the radiator may try to rotate when you try to break loose the trans lines. I grabbed the "round" portion of the radiator fitting with a vise-grip and used a line wrench on the nuts to break them loose. Heater hose access is poor on the firewall end so I'll replace them after the engine is removed. I pulled the intake plenum since it needs to come off anyway. (8mm 1/3" drive socket on a 6" extension, count the bolts to ensure you get them all. Plenum should pop off easily.) The water pump has to come off anyway, or else I'd use a fan clutch wrench and remove the fan for clearance.
Since it's an auto I'm leaving the trans in place.
There is ample room with the radiator removed. Pull the power steering pump/reservoir leaving the hoses connected, ditto the AC pump, and swing out of the way. The fittings in the radiator may try to rotate when you try to break loose the trans lines. I grabbed the "round" portion of the radiator fitting with a vise-grip and used a line wrench on the nuts to break them loose. Heater hose access is poor on the firewall end so I'll replace them after the engine is removed. I pulled the intake plenum since it needs to come off anyway. (8mm 1/3" drive socket on a 6" extension, count the bolts to ensure you get them all. Plenum should pop off easily.) The water pump has to come off anyway, or else I'd use a fan clutch wrench and remove the fan for clearance.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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Just finished putting my rebuilt (hydrolocked 97) 4.2 back in my 4 X 4. The only way I found to access (or see) the top LH transmission (5 speed manual) to engine bolt was over the top (easy access to both top LH & RH bolts once the plenum was removed - I left it off for reinstall ease also). Radiator removed & clutch fan & pulley were also left off for reinstall. Removing the engine mount to engine bolts (3) (rather than the 1 through bolt to frame) also made it easier to slide the engine fore and aft while lifting/lowering.
Cheers
Flagbagger
Cheers
Flagbagger
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
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Ditto what flagbagger said!
Whoever designed the Ford mounts needs to be clubbed like a baby seal, but access isn't too bad with the plastic inner fenderwells removed.
Top LH bolt came out OK using a 13mm Gearwrench.
Since its due a teardown and the exhaust pipe bolts are rusted solid, I unbolted the manifolds from the head, raised the engine, and removed both engine mounts. With them off I lowered the engine and had more access to the bellhousing bolts. (Works good on Jeeps too.)
Whoever designed the Ford mounts needs to be clubbed like a baby seal, but access isn't too bad with the plastic inner fenderwells removed.
Top LH bolt came out OK using a 13mm Gearwrench.
Since its due a teardown and the exhaust pipe bolts are rusted solid, I unbolted the manifolds from the head, raised the engine, and removed both engine mounts. With them off I lowered the engine and had more access to the bellhousing bolts. (Works good on Jeeps too.)
New User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
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which is easyer? pull or lift.
I pulled a cab of a wrecked 04 f150 a couple months ago and I forgot to unhook some A/C lines
Had to bust out the hand grinder. But besides that it seemed pretty easy. I haven't done it in reverse, so it mite be different?
Had to bust out the hand grinder. But besides that it seemed pretty easy. I haven't done it in reverse, so it mite be different?