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Fuel pump loss would kill it pretty quick, but it would sputter at least a little as the pressure dropped. An ailing ICM (Ignition Control Module) is more prone to giving you the no-start condition described. There's actually a class action suit against Ford for being silly enough to put it on the dizzy on earlier models, where it would cop all the heat from the radiator. Yours should be mounted on big heat-sink on the fender just below the drivers side hinge on the hood. Drive the truck to your nearest parts house, with tools at the ready to ****** it off while it's still hot (heatsink and all) and let 'em test it before it cools. Thermal shutdown is the normal mode of failure. Let the truck sit for about 15 minutes, it'll usually fire right back up like nothing was wrong. Left a LOT of folks stranded on the highway and paying very expensive towing fees, only to have their car crank like magic when it got to a service center.
{Some calls it ICM, I calls it TFI (Thick Film Ignition), since I got outta the nervous hospital.}
Yes i do have spark, if you spary some starting fluid it fires right away and then sputters and dies... which means to me no fuel. I just wanted to make sure it was an electrical problem. i always thought fuel pumps made a really loud whineing noise when they were on there way out... not just die!
Im looking in my mustang manual, i have an 88 GT has the 5.0HO. Im looking how the fuel pump wiring is as it should be close to how your truck is. The book shows that there should only be 1 hot going to the fuel pump. It shows that the ignition makes the eec power relay click, then the power goes to the inerta switch which makes the fuel pump relay click. It shows the SOLID STATE (its a box in the middle of the page, gives the ground to everything except for the fuel pump. If you go to the fuel pump relay and jump the switch part and ur pump turns on then something else is gone. If that makes sense or not. Let me know
lol... ok lets talk 3rd grader here... jump the fuel pump relay which is in the fuse block in engine compartment yay? to jump it i need to take a paper clip or something and poke the holes? I'm guessing truck should be in the "run" position... sorry for the frustration... Thanks for you help Chris!
Yes if you use a paper clip or a peice of wire to jump the switch part. The relay usually has the pic of the switch and coil side. Just cross the switch side and see if it kicks on.
i actually had the same problem on my 1994. and it cut off out of no where then it started like the tenth try and shut off again, as i was going down the road. To make the story short it was the fuel pump in the rear tank. I replaced it myself and good as new.
The other way i could tell that it was the pump was because i could hear my pump kick in when i turned on the ignition when it was good, but when it wouldn't start i couldn't hear it turn on.. I think this may very well be your problem
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