Installing Clifford Headers
#1
06-29-2000, 11:47 AM
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Installing Clifford Headers
This weekend I plan on installing my Clifford Performance headers(dual outlets)on my 94 F-150 inline 6. I want to make this a clean job and do it right the 1st time. Has anyone already done this? If so can you give me some tips or suggestion on what to do and what not to do before I get started?!
#2
06-29-2000, 03:40 PM
Installing Clifford Headers
Man, you are going to get real sick of me, soon!
Yep, already did the header thing, too.
I used Clifford "Steet Rod" headers, which are unequal-length dual outlet units, ordered with smog hookups, 2.25-in. collectors, and Jet-Hot coating.
That last was a mistake; having Clifford Jet-Hot coat those headers. The bare headers needed quite a bit of attention internally, having a lot of nasty internal welds, poorly trimmed sheet metal and slag. I should have cleaned them up first and then gotten them Jet Hot coated myself. Jet Hot is great stuff; I highly recommend it--expensive, but worth it.
The 2.25 reducers were welded to a new, stock, catalytic converter via some custom-bent stainless steel tubing, and a new EGR feed tube was fabricated, also in stainless. A 3" single outlet Gibson cat-back system was already in place.
Measure the EFI air manifold-to-head flange thickness; it was fully .500 thick, while Clifford is .375. What you do there is grind .125 off half the face of those thick retaining washers to create a step.
Have noticed that you now have to use a gasket? And move the intake around a little bit? Do you see the two fuel lines back by the firewall? You have to separate those from engine fuel rail, and they have a "garter spring" which holds them together. It takes a special little tool, about $10.00, to separate those...and they are a pain in the posterior, too.
It is worth it, though...my truck responded very well to freeing up the exhaust.
It really pained me to use the emissions garbage, but Texas is bending over ever faster to the EPA-*****, and smog testing is here, now, and this is my daily driver, so...
Eddie
Yep, already did the header thing, too.
I used Clifford "Steet Rod" headers, which are unequal-length dual outlet units, ordered with smog hookups, 2.25-in. collectors, and Jet-Hot coating.
That last was a mistake; having Clifford Jet-Hot coat those headers. The bare headers needed quite a bit of attention internally, having a lot of nasty internal welds, poorly trimmed sheet metal and slag. I should have cleaned them up first and then gotten them Jet Hot coated myself. Jet Hot is great stuff; I highly recommend it--expensive, but worth it.
The 2.25 reducers were welded to a new, stock, catalytic converter via some custom-bent stainless steel tubing, and a new EGR feed tube was fabricated, also in stainless. A 3" single outlet Gibson cat-back system was already in place.
Measure the EFI air manifold-to-head flange thickness; it was fully .500 thick, while Clifford is .375. What you do there is grind .125 off half the face of those thick retaining washers to create a step.
Have noticed that you now have to use a gasket? And move the intake around a little bit? Do you see the two fuel lines back by the firewall? You have to separate those from engine fuel rail, and they have a "garter spring" which holds them together. It takes a special little tool, about $10.00, to separate those...and they are a pain in the posterior, too.
It is worth it, though...my truck responded very well to freeing up the exhaust.
It really pained me to use the emissions garbage, but Texas is bending over ever faster to the EPA-*****, and smog testing is here, now, and this is my daily driver, so...
Eddie
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