I am a newby to the F150 world. Taking the 95 F150 i300 4x4 home with me this weekend that my father in law was nice enough to donate to me.

I have been doing work on it for the past 3 months. First thing was to get it running. Did that. I replaced the plugs, wires, dist cap/rotor, PCV, air filter and crank case filter this weekend.


Now I am trying to decipher these codes it is throwing.

If anybody can give me some help on trying to figure these out I would be more than happy.

1166361141166361131332443546332443556

How the heck to you read these?


thanks,
michael

 

Possibly break these down into 2 numbers...11-66-36 read each one individually?
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=14

How did you get these codes?
Do you have a code reader or did you do the self test, using the paper clip mwthod?

 

KOEO
116 = ECT Cold coolant.
636 = Transmission not at operating temperature.
114 = IAT Air entering engine below 50 deg F.

ALL normal codes for an engine that was not warmed up before self test was ran with the OAT below 50 deg F.

CONTINUOUS
332 = EGR valve did not open when told to do so.
443 = No such code
556 = Fuel Pump circuit bad (wiring, FP relay or Fuel Pump Bad or pin #6 of test connector grounded for test)

 

here is a good diagram of how the blinks are spaced and how to interpret the blinks into codes: http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html

Being that it's a 95, each code should be three digits.

 

While we're on the subject of codes... I have not been able to read the codes on my 88f150 I6. I have a code reader, but get a constant tone when it is hooked up. I tried the jumper method, but the check engine light did not flash. I hooked a voltmeter in and it shows a constant voltage - I think it was 12.47 v.
Maybe I'm not getting it hooked up right, but I don't think so.
Has anyone else had this problem?

 

Im with steve. Ive also done all the voltage meter and test light tests. Ive got a 95. It ran awesome one day. I parked it and came back the next day to a truck that wouldnt start. Turns over...no spark...replaced coil...got power into distributor but none out. changed whole dist. still nothing. changed out the icm...still nothing. Bought a code reader. hooked it up. It stays lit and does one solid beep while key is off (while switch is in the hold position as soon as you plug it in). then as soon as I turn the key forward to the on position the light goes off and it stops beeping (switch still in hold pos)(as if its doing nothing). then when you flick the switch to the test position on the code reader to start the test it does nothing. no beeps no lights no nothing. tryed the self test as well...engine light wont even blink or come on. I know I should have atleast one code a 111 if everythings good. but im sure its not...i should atleast get an o2 sensor code. my O2 sensor hasnt been hooked up in years (it just came out of sitting in my back yard for 3 years and taking every hurricane weve gotten from charlie to wilma to katrina. so im sure the florida humidity wasnt helping my elec components.)( but the o2 sensor has been unhooked while it was running before it sat and after i got it running before this happened.) also I took my elec x case shift motor out because it wouldnt go into 4lo. its a woods only truck so instead of paying for a new motor i took it off and shifted it by hand into low. and left the plug disconnected. I doubt it but is there anyway one of these things could have shorted my computer? (by leaving an uncovered plug hanging?) I cant figure it out anyone had this problem???

Does anyone think my code reader is defective??? I doubt it being thats its brand new out of the box.

AAAARRRGGG!!! I NEED HELP!!!!

 

Thanks for the replys.

I still am trying to figure out how it seperates a 3 digit code from a 2 digit code.

I am using a paperclip on the self test.


thanks,
michael

 

the codes are split by a couple second pause.

 

codyingersoll123
Bad ground on fender behind the battery or bad PCM computer.

 

Engine
Yours also sounds like a bad ground (the small black wire with a green stripe coming off the Negative post of the battery) or a bad EEC Computer.
Does it run?
If so how good?

 

Subford
My truck runs good. I have no reason to get the codes other than I am curoius.
I once had a problem with the ground you describe (fixed that), and the EEC was replaced about 6 months ago.

 

All most all of the time that I have seen a post saying they can not get codes it turns out be that they have to replace the Computer to get them. I do not remember one time that this was not true.
Does your fuel pumps run all the time the key is on and the engine is not running or cranking?
They should just run for one second and shut off when you just turn on the key.

 

codyingersoll123
On yours you could also try pulling out the spout shorting bar and if you have spark then you will know it is the PCM Computer or a shorted to ground SPOUT wire going to the Computer.

 

Subford
Fuel pumps seem to be working correctly. I replaced the high pressure pump last week. When the key is turned on pumps run for about a second.
The EEC I put in the truck 6 months ago is reconditioned. Is it possible that it could not be sending the codes?

 

Yes it is possible.