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I was wondering about the DashDAQ. Do you get accurate info on the following with the installation of the DashDAQ or do you still need to also add aftermarket sensors:
Here's another vote for the EGT, you can wire in a selector switch and temp probes to show more than one parameter on the tranny temp gage. I have done it and posted several times about how. I currently have it set up for both diffs, tranny and coolant and will add oil temp. There is a plug in the block on the driver side near where most folks put the pyrometer probe that you can install an adaptor(I think it's Autometer part #2268, 16X1.5MM to 1/8NPT) for coolant temp.
Here's another vote for the EGT, you can wire in a selector switch and temp probes to show more than one parameter on the tranny temp gage. I have done it and posted several times about how. I currently have it set up for both diffs, tranny and coolant and will add oil temp. There is a plug in the block on the driver side near where most folks put the pyrometer probe that you can install an adaptor(I think it's Autometer part #2268, 16X1.5MM to 1/8NPT) for coolant temp.
Hello again thedaddycat! I am planning on sharing the tranny temp with at least the oil temp. I just wasn't sure about the egt gauge, but after reading everyones suggestions and a nice article online (can't remember where) it seems the egt gauge can "sense" problems before any of the other gauges will and in fact IS the most important gauge you can purchase. Thanks again for your reply. If anyone else is interested in sharing one gauge with multiple temp probes read the link from thedaddycat's link above, it's explained very well.
Oh, you will be amazed at the differences in the stock and a/m tranny guage. It takes about 10-15 mins for the a/m guage to get over 100*. The stock one goes to operating temp before i move the the truck!
LOL! I know what you mean. I let mine warm up for a few minutes and the tranny temp will be at 1/3 and the water temp will still be on "0". For a minute I thought the two gauges were switched!
...There is a plug in the block on the driver side near where most folks put the pyrometer probe that you can install an adaptor(I think it's Autometer part #2268, 16X1.5MM to 1/8NPT) for coolant temp.
I'm just about ready to install the water temp probe. It's an Isspro Water Temp gauge and it came with these size adapters: "Comes with 1/8"NPT matched sending unit and 1/4NPT", 3/8NPT", & 1/2NPT" adapter bushings." I noticed the plug in the block with an allen head. Here are the questions (I have never done this before so bare with me.... lol)
1. Will one of the included adapters work?
2. How much coolant can I expect to loose?
3. Can I reuse the coolant that drained out?
I dropped a quadzilla commander into my rig on Friday. It seems to be working great sofar. All the perameters appear very responsive and where I'd expect them to be. I bought the fuel pressure kit too but ran into problems installing it off the fuel filter test port. I've got a call into quad that I expect tobe retunred monday. The quad runs off the MAP sensor for boost and the stock coolant sensor but comes with an aftermarket thermocouple for the pyrometer and tranny temp.
I'm just about ready to install the water temp probe. It's an Isspro Water Temp gauge and it came with these size adapters: "Comes with 1/8"NPT matched sending unit and 1/4NPT", 3/8NPT", & 1/2NPT" adapter bushings." I noticed the plug in the block with an allen head. Here are the questions (I have never done this before so bare with me.... lol)
1. Will one of the included adapters work?
2. How much coolant can I expect to loose?
3. Can I reuse the coolant that drained out?
Thank you in advance!
If your temp probe is threaded 1/8" NPT then you will not need the adapters that came with your kit. You will need the Autometer #2268 adapter which fits the metric 16-1.5mm threaded block plug and is already threaded for 1/8" NPT which will match the temp probe. You will loose a little bit of coolant but not much if you do the prep work before removing the block plug. I lost less than a cup when I did mine. I would not even bother trying to catch the coolant, just top off with more coolant or water.
Thread the probe into the Autometer adapter using pipe thread sealant. I used both teflon tape and paste on mine but that's just me. Prep the adapter the same way so it's ready to thread right into the block. Spray the block plug down with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil the night before so it can soak in and make plug removal easier. Use an Allen wrench socket and extension with a ratchet to remove the plug and quickly thread the adapter into the hole. Some coolant will run out and down your arm so being fast will minimize the mess. Once the adapter is in, you can use a deep well socket to snug it up.
I ran the wire back to the boot that the shift cable runs through, poking a small hole through it with a screwdriver and fishing the wire through. It runs up under the dash and is landed on the terminal strip behind the fuse panel cover. The inputs to the selector switch are also landed on that terminal strip, feeding the switch which can then be turned to select which parameter is monitored on the tranny temp gage. I have mine set up to read both diffs, the tranny and engine coolant and will add engine oil temp when I install the integrated ESP luber and Oilguard bypass filtration systems. Because I used a two-pole, six position rotary switch for my selector I will have one open terminal left. I've been thinking about what to use it for and I may possibly see about adding a temp probe to the transfer case for the last open terminal.
If your temp probe is threaded 1/8" NPT then you will not need the adapters that came with your kit. You will need the Autometer #2268 adapter which fits the metric 16-1.5mm threaded block plug and is already threaded for 1/8" NPT which will match the temp probe. You will loose a little bit of coolant but not much if you do the prep work before removing the block plug. I lost less than a cup when I did mine. I would not even bother trying to catch the coolant, just top off with more coolant or water.
Thread the probe into the Autometer adapter using pipe thread sealant. I used both teflon tape and paste on mine but that's just me. Prep the adapter the same way so it's ready to thread right into the block. Spray the block plug down with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil the night before so it can soak in and make plug removal easier. Use an Allen wrench socket and extension with a ratchet to remove the plug and quickly thread the adapter into the hole. Some coolant will run out and down your arm so being fast will minimize the mess. Once the adapter is in, you can use a deep well socket to snug it up.
I ran the wire back to the boot that the shift cable runs through, poking a small hole through it with a screwdriver and fishing the wire through. It runs up under the dash and is landed on the terminal strip behind the fuse panel cover. The inputs to the selector switch are also landed on that terminal strip, feeding the switch which can then be turned to select which parameter is monitored on the tranny temp gage. I have mine set up to read both diffs, the tranny and engine coolant and will add engine oil temp when I install the integrated ESP luber and Oilguard bypass filtration systems. Because I used a two-pole, six position rotary switch for my selector I will have one open terminal left. I've been thinking about what to use it for and I may possibly see about adding a temp probe to the transfer case for the last open terminal.
Thank you. I ordered the Autometer plug online today. I didn't have any luck around town finding one, I even called the International dealer they said they don't carry metric adapters. I appreciate all the heads up on the prep work. I will let you know how the install went as soon as I recieve the part.
Thanks again!
I recieved the Autometer adapter part# 2268 and installed the Water Temp sender. I didn't have a deep 7/8in socket that would fit over the temp sender so I managed to get a wrench up in there and tightened the adapter, not super tight, but very snug. The first thing I did was compare the stock temp gauge with my new Isspro Water Temp gauge. The stock gauge hit it's usuall half way spot when the Isspro gauge read 160 degrees. The Isspro gauge went all the way up to 188 to 190 degrees, the stock gauge stayed at it's half way point. Is 190 degrees considered normal operating temp (not towing)?
Daddycat thank you for all your help.
NP, glad I could contribute. I regularly see around 180 on my DiPricol when I select coolant but it does go up and down some. I've seen it as high as 220 while plowing snow, but the truck is working hard and not moving much air through the radiator then. If I were to plow much I'd think about a pusher fan but since I only do my driveway and a couple friends and neighbors it's not a worry for me.
The one thing that you have to be leary of when your using OBD-II to gather your info and using the stock gauges is that your temps can and will usually run cooler then if you had tapped in with your own sensors.
Oh, you will be amazed at the differences in the stock and a/m tranny guage. It takes about 10-15 mins for the a/m guage to get over 100*. The stock one goes to operating temp before i move the the truck!
Yeah, this fact surprised me when I got the PSD. I installed a temp sender on the suction side of the tranny cooler on my Toyota and it really took a long time to warm up. Can't believe that the PSD heats up this quick.
Tranny temps stay pretty low all the time except when under heavy strain. Tranny fluid is routed through the radiator to preheat it rather than to cool it.
Yeah, I imagine that more has to do with sensor location than the specific sensor. I was toying with the idea of installing an AM sensor and comparing it to stock.....