What is the cheapest and easiest way to lower a truck? I have a 1970 F100 Longbed and i want to drop it pretty low. What is the best for the front and the back?

 

I'm no expert, but I haven't seen much more than 3" drop I beams and drop coils for the front. Anything more and you end up with camber problems. As for the back, axle flip kits, de-arched springs, are some of the cheaper options. Hope this helps.

 

Let the air oughtta the tires.



sorry, I couldn't resist.

 

You might look into air bag kits, not sure on the price but thats how the lowriders usually do it.

 

Easy and cheap shouldn't be used in the same sentence as lowering a bumpside!!! Then it also depends on your definition of "easy" and "cheap".

Depends a lot on your definition of low and the intended usage for the truck. MII suspension on the front with air bags substituted for the springs and a flip kit with bags in the rear can make it sit on the rockers, but it is not easy or cheap to do, and it becomes a Hot Rod and not up to truckin' or towin' duties.

Dropped I-beams for the front and removing a spring or two in the rear will lower it a few inches, but with parts and materials it's still in excess of $600....

 

You can get in the weeds and still use your truck as a truck with one of Insustrial Chassis Dakota based crossmember kits.

Typically a drop of five inches can be obtained with stock 4 cyl springs. and trimming of a coil gets another inch. And Industrial Chassis offers 2" drop spindles with tie rod locators. Thats about 8 inches of drop on the 53 thru 79 ford truck 34" frame.

Industrial chassis will build the upper hats to accept bags if specified by the customer.

For about a grand you can do the basic crossmember and yard the Dakota truck components. This kit will allow the truck to maintain the factory GVRW and be used as a truck. Also no sway bar is needed to help control things like MIIs require as the Dodge Dakotas track width is 60". All factory geometrey is retained, So alingment is no issue. like on a widened MII with a factory track width of 56". All the components like brakes, calipers ball joints rack and bushings are readily avalible at the local jober and not custom made pieces.

Garbz

 

Budget is important but want to do it right and not have alignment or handling issues. Would like use as a truck too with towing capabilities intact. Just want to squat it to level front and back with front being lowered only 2"". Then lower rear to match front. Using 15x10 wheels on rear and 15x8 in front.
Any help greatly appreciated.

 

the cheapest would be cut coils and flip the rear leaf hanger that is what I am thinking about doing to mine

 

Thanks for reply. That seems to be a good way to go. How do you tell how much coil to cut?

 

they say 1/2 at a time like right across from the end of the coil if that males sense there was a post on here about flippimg the rear hangers but I am having touble finding the article

 

Here again is the webpage. Please bookmark.: '65-'79 Truck Suspension Lowering Basics - FORDification.com"

 

What axle flip kits will fit on my 1968 f100? i want an easy way to lower my truck without having to drill the rivets out of my spring hangers

 

Please let us know what you found

 

If you cut the springs, use a piece of string to follow the curve of the coil. Make your cut and mark your string. Then transfer the string over to the other spring to cut. This will help keep the springs the same height.

 

After cutting the springs, I would recommend finding an old-school alignment shop that still bends I-beams to correct your camber.