I cant answer that off the top of my head. I can tell you that once you install the drop beams with a stock set of coil springs, you will like it, and have plenty of travel before hitting my bumpstops. I am using my original coil big block springs and there is still alot of play. If I actually wanted to, I could cut the coils a litle bit and get it a little lower, but I like the way my truck sits so its staying where its at, LOL!

Are you lowering the back? If so, what are you using or doing to lower it? I forgot to mention earlier, but I did remove 1 leaf spring from the rear when installing the kit to the rear.

 

[QUOTE=f100today;11193465]
Cool! I thought that was your truck. Like I said, the wheels kinda throws my off, but I would say your truck might be a little lower in the back then mine, since mine doesnt bottom out like that. I would say our fronts sit the same. And yes, no where near slammed, but looks great in my opinion Everyone has different tastes!

 

[quote=williamwilliam;11193817]Look at the center / hub of the wheel in relation to the bottom of the rocker. That gives a better indication of how much the truck is lowered. Mixing wheel diameters and tire sizes just gives a visual tease.

 

[QUOTE=f100today;11193852]Your right! So like I said above, yours is lower in the back than mine and about the same in the front. Your looks to be sitting more level where mine has just a slight more aggressive stance.

 

[quote=williamwilliam;11193817]I would say your truck sits lower than mine overall due mainly to the tire diameter. My rear tires are nearly 31.5 inches tall and the fronts are almost 29 inches tall.

 

Yes. First I'm gonna do the spring hanger flip and removing one or two leafs. If I don't get the drop what I want, then it's axle flip time using Fatman's kit. I'm okay with notching the frame.

I think the hanger flip works well on shortbeds (as evidenced by your rig) but it may actually accentuate the resultant rake on a long bed. Only time will tell.

Knowing my rig already had sagging springs, I went ahead and grabbed the coils off the 78 (w/ a 351M) that donated its disc brakes and radius arms so I hope they're at least better than what I have. Otherwise, I'll look for different spec springs - like from a 460-equipped Dentside.

Btw, if anyone is looking for 15x8s that fit stock dogdish hubcaps, look up Wheel Vintiques Series 62 wheels at Summit Racing. I'll be using both of these depending on my mood:



Contrary to what it says on Fordification, I've got a set of caps below that fit on stock 15-nch steel wheels.

 

[QUOTE=f100today;11193871]Right, I was talking about if we both had the same wheel and tire package. Looks like yours would be lower in the back than mine.

@HIO, cant wait to see pics of your truck when its done and get comments about how it rides. You also may be right about your long bed vs short bed comment too.

 

The truck you list is the only 1 I have ever heard of selling for that kind of money. Even still a complete restoration will cost what he got. The most I have heard of one of these trucks going for was $6500 and that was a very nice all original '72 Ranger that was fully loaded when built. I have seen what NADA says but again I don't see any of them advertised for that so my assumption is they don't sell in that range.

My truck being an exception (most people do not shave wipers) but frames are cheap and swapping out the chassis is easy enough should someone ever want stock. They just built so many of these trucks they are not hard to find. Condition can be rough to find. I drove from Indianapolis to northern GA to get mine. The main problem with custom is the number of buyers shrinks with every custom feature added. The vehicle becomes an expression of one's personality. I would imagine mine not having any wipers would make it rough to sell. At the same time I have had my share of "If you ever want to sell it" comments. Wife says no at any price.

If I were dealing with a rare or limited vehicle stock restore would be my route. Example being a late '60's early '70's Mopar muscle car, Shelby Mustang, Packard Clipper Conv. etc.

I have no clue where you guys find these beam prices. When I was looking all I could find was $800 for the beams alone. Stir in rear kit along with misc things and I put it out around $1200-$1500. I seen a book at Barnes & Noble that was a "Where are they now?" book dealing with famous custom cars. Matador & Ala Cart being a couple of them. Hopefully my truck will make a book like that 40 yrs from now.

 

Believe me, they do. A 1969 step side pickup just sold for $25K on ebay just 2 months or so ago. There was a thread on here or the other website that was kinda following the sale of it. There was also a 1972 (I think) all original with a camper shell that sold for over $15K, not exactly sure the final price, but it was over $15K. Original trucks of this era are hard to find, which is why when you do find one they are rather exspensive. Thats why I chose not to cut mine up and being able to put everything back.

Here is my receipt, actually $886 for everything plus shipping:




Believe me, I agree with you, I know all about original cars as well, trucks are the very same to some people. Here is my other baby. Look close you can see my deluxe Marti Report hanging on my garage wall in a frame, LOL:

 

Dream beams are $596 at Summit. A spring hanger flip is nearly free. An axle flip kit is around $100 at Airbagit.com.

However, I've got a disc brake swap, new tie rods, kingpins, bushings, an OEM front sway bar, and other stuff in the mix. I'm working on a thread for my build which will include all the prices so stay tuned.

 

I picked up a '70 F150 a month ago in Madison, Indiana for $400 with the dropped beams, power disc brakes, and everything but the motor and interior. I was going to do a frame swap with my '71 F250 but the '70 was nicer than the '71! So now I have two trucks to work on. I bought it just for the beams. The deals are out there. The '70 will be a hot rod, with a 390, and the 71 I hope to maybe do a diesel swap and make it a tow rig.

 

If any of y'all have any drop beams on the cheap, send me a message. But keep in mine, I'm on a fixed income with a high maintenance wife

 

Flipping the front spring hanger will alter the pinion angle and shims will be needed to correct the pinion angle. Measure the pinion angle before any modifications.
Here's mine with rear axle relocation and Dream Beams, dropped the rear 5-3/4" and 3" in the front

Stock tub modification for drag radial clearance...

My truck is lowered with all bolt-in parts and can be returned to stock very easily.

 

LOL, you and me both!!!!

@ instig8r63......I think with me pulling out one of the rear leaf springs and installing the rear shackle hanger kit, mine dropped right at 5 inches or so (guessing) looks to be about the same height as yours. I think 3 inches in the front with the lowering ibeams for me as well. I wish I would have measured everything before I installed the kit so I would know for sure , but hell that was almost 8 years ago now. I do know I had to use shims as well as I ordered kind of a complete kit all at once.

 

Easiest way to lower would be to get a fat girlfriend. That's what I did, but it still wasn't low enough. I married her and the wedding cake added 40lbs to each of us. That still didn't get it low enough, but it did break the bank. I wouldn't recommend it.

We used to heat the springs and pull leaves. It got the look, but left the truck basically useless and worthless. The dropped beams and axle flip, or hanger flip, seems the best way to go to maintain a good handling vehicle.