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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rsylvstr
pawpaw - as always, thanks for the info.
I might have to torque my FL820s (from walmart) down....for piece of mind.
haven't noticed anything dripping, but you never know....especially since i switched to Q-Power "full synthetic" 5W-20
I've never had a problem with an FL820s filter. And yes, I buy them at Walmart.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:25 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Ed
WOW, Chuck! Ironically, I also use the 20 X 20 X 1 filter in our house, and I agree: How do you bend, clamp down and make that filter work? I'm sure there is a kit that makes them useable on various engines, maybe even via a remote filter setup??
Not that this would be too far fetched. Does anyone remember in the 60's when you could buy a filter that used a roll of toilet paper for a filter media? Needless to say, it didn't last long. jd
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jimdandy
Not that this would be too far fetched. Does anyone remember in the 60's when you could buy a filter that used a roll of toilet paper for a filter media? Needless to say, it didn't last long. jd
Yes, the bypass system was made by Franz and is still made today. In 1987, the design was slightly modified to eliminate any possibility of TP escaping into the engine (a very rare possibility), but their are several similiar system on the market today that include rolls of paper towels which are used exclusively on "big rigs" and military spec vehicles.

I have a Franz unit on my Toy (65 shelby) since 1986 and it does everything that my father (an ol salt flat racer) stated it would do!

Aside from the initial oil changes I did after the ground up rebuild in 1985/6, I have only changed the oil twice and have approximately 12,000 miles on the car. The oil is pristene and the analysis verifies what has long been known.

Similar to coolant, prestone ended their coolant logitivity test after 13 years. Unless i have a oem warranty requirement, I flush the system every 5 years, use a magnesium cathode in the overflow to eliminate corrosion (which I verify annually with ph paper), pour the drained coolant through a paper towel into a container and refill the radiator- the reason, the ph is always neutral and it takes about a month+ to neutralize fresh distilled water.

I have never (in 35 years) ever experienced a head, water pump or radiator system failure as a result- nor an engine failure.

Yes, basic chemistry & theory still applies
 

Last edited by Beechkid; Jan 4, 2008 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 01:14 AM
  #34  
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i don't use paper oil filters anymore because of the awful flaws that any paper oil filter has....i use stainless steel micronic oil filters for all my fords these filters filter absolute 35u and flows 2 gpm @ 1 psid per 1 sq inch of filter steel mesh there are 30 sq inchs that equals 57 gpm flow..you will be amazed on the less engine drag and 3-4hp gains..these filters also cools the oil......k&p engineering makes these and they make them for scotts
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 07:40 AM
  #35  
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Those tiolet paper filters were actually so efficient, they started to filter out needed additives out of the oil itself. This was years ago, so it might not be such a problem anymore with the advancement in all types of motor oils.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:46 PM
  #36  
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I use the Wallyworld oilfilter. Identical to Motorcraft. No SS filter is going on my truck, I want my oil filtered, not strained.
 
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