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That oil filter study is very old. Tall Paul is correct the factory Ford oil filters are a WIX part, that went on when Ford came out with the redesigned F-150, in 2004 I beleive. They went to this oil filter when their previous model year supply was depleted at the factory.
I've had a problem lately with getting the FL-1A filters to seal. I have to tighten them with an oil filter wrench to get them to seal. Other filters do not require them to be so tight. I will say I've been buying the FL-1A's at Walmart. I have purchased 4 filters at different times and they have all been this way.
I've had a problem lately with getting the FL-1A filters to seal. I have to tighten them with an oil filter wrench to get them to seal. Other filters do not require them to be so tight. I will say I've been buying the FL-1A's at Walmart. I have purchased 4 filters at different times and they have all been this way.
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Are you saying that when you go to change the oil filter, it's loose enough that you can remove it by hand?
Or is it loose to the point where it's leaking, or you're noticing a drip spot on your driveway or garage floor?
I've changed my own oil (and others) since the early 70s (before I even had a drivers license) and never once had to use a oil filter wrench to tighten an oil filter.
I don't think I could get a correct "feel" of the oil filter with a wrench. Plus, an overly tight oil filter is never a good thing?
I've been changing oil filters since the 60's. I've never had to use a wrench before to tighten them, either. The filter is still tight when it is removed. All I am saying is that, lately, when installing motorcraft filters from Walmart, I have to
"reef" on them in order to get them to seal. I have tried other filters such as Wix and Purolator, etc, and I don't seem to have this problem.
Strange, maybe take a close look at the oil filters base sealing surface & the filters gasket, for imperfections, damage, or contaminate debris.
You know, come to think of it, I did notice a weep/leak problem with my 94 Taurus 3.8L's Motorcraft FL-400s, that I just changed out.
I noticed the oil level had dropped some over the OCI, which it has never done, but I was running Havoline 5W-30 Synthetic, so I thought maybe it had used some, or maybe leaked out the rear valve cover, or something like that, but when I got underneath to take the filter off, I noticed that there was a drop of old oil ready to drip off & a more detailed inspection showed signs of it having weeped all around the base & having run down the sides of the filter & dripped off. But no signs in the driveway.
Couldn't see any reason for it, filter was tight, I needed my filter wrench to start it off, gasket looked fine & the base seal area looked fine.
Maybe it was a filter crimp leak, is about the only thing I an think of now, so I'll be watching both the Ranger & Taurus more closely this OCI.
Of course this type of problem wouldn't respond to tightening the filter.
Just some of my recent happenings along this line & observations for consideration.
Good point pawpaw. Maybe there is an imperfection in the sealing surface and the motorcraft filter uses a stiffer rubber material for a seal that requires a little more "oomph" for the rubber to press over the imperfection. I have even tried Fram filters and they also seal by hand tightening the filter. Maybe motorcraft uses better rubbers on their filters.
Yup, I was thinking the same thing, as the Motorcraft filter gasket is kinda firm, sorta looks like BunaN or something like that & the Purolater is a silicone type. Don't know the durometer difference, but on the Daughters Pure One filter, it's silicone gasket felt a little more soft than my Motorcrafts gasket to me.
But now with the problem on the Taurus FL400s, I wonder if maybe they're having/had factory line problems with the crimp machine????
Or maybe they got a batch of out of spec durometer gaskets & let them get into production.
This is the first time in all my motoring years, to have run accross a suspect filter.
Have heard of others with horror stories, but I've never had a filter problem.
As I said, just changed the Taurus & Ranger's oil & filter, so I'll be watching them even more closely this OCI, maybe others should too, especially if using a Motorcraft, or Purolater filter & the engines dipstick indicates a sudden drop, when there's been no history of consumption.
Maybe Motorcraft has the beginnings of a problem!!!!????
pawpaw - as always, thanks for the info.
I might have to torque my FL820s (from walmart) down....for piece of mind.
haven't noticed anything dripping, but you never know....especially since i switched to Q-Power "full synthetic" 5W-20
I think we are being taken advantage of by the likes of Ford and GM. It used to be that AC Delco and Motorcraft meant that those parts were manufactured by divisions of GM and Ford. After, or probably before, the spin offs of Delphi and Visteon, parts are made by the lowest bidder.
Replacement parts at the dealer may also no longer be even the same as the ones used building your truck at the factory. Toyota does the same thing. Filters supplied on new engines are genuine made in Japan Denso, while dealer filters Ive seen are either Purolator or worse, unidentifiable Indonesia junk, rusting in the package. As long as the dimensions, flow rate and bypass pressure is "close enough" your warranty is safe. Oh, and it is painted with the proper logo.
Well we know Wix makes the factory installed oil filter & Purolator makes the aftermarket Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter & Filtran makes my Ranger & Taurus tranny filters, says so right on the filter.
ConocoPhillips makes MotorCraft oil.
The danged Ranger has a German 4.0L engine & the 5R55E tranny is made in France & the thing was put together in the twin cities, so seems to me it should be named "International"!!!! lol