sorry for the delay between posts, been working alot lately, so are you saying that if i put it on heater the rod will swap to defrost or it will just start blowin out of the top if i am losing vacuum. I have replace brake master cylinder 3 times because of bleeding pedal, booster once because of no power brakes, and everything on the wheels is brand new besides the drums and rotors, this brake issue has bothered me for a long time i just can't figure it out, the only thing that I haven't changed is the valve that sits on the frame, drivers side, If you were talking about my name it comes from people used to call me redneck and when i tried to get an e-mail that was already taken so i just added aggie and my graduation year after it

 

Loss of power braking and the heater starts blowing out the defrost slots is an indication you have lost vacuum.

The lever does not move, the air discharge place changes.

However if your brakes still have power assist, and the pedal is slowly going to the floor, either you are leaking fluid or the fluid is bypassing internally in the master cylinder.

I have been through several master cylinders, they were all bypassing the fluid inside the cylinder.

 

1st how did u bleed it...on the bench or truck?..mine had the same trouble..i followed the bench bleeding instructions an my brakes came back....they say that if u bleed on the truck u will roll the seals over the plunger....

 

I've allways had better luck rebuilding my own MC's

I take it slow, and easy. I know I can do a better job, than someone sitting at a bench at a rebuild shop, doing the same thing over, and over, and over.....

The ZF5 is a direct bolt on option. The ZF6 is not.

There was a guy that did bolt a ZF6 to his IDI. But, He had access to a machine shop to build a custom mount for the top of the engine, and a custom cross member. All of the holes line up, except for the top 2.

http://forums.ford-trucks.com.com/fo...te_id/1#import

 

i blead it on the bench and then again on the truck just to make sure(that was on the 2nd master cylender) and its still doing the same as the origonal problem. i changed all the back break components including the drums and pads and it helped with the soft peddle but stilll bleeding out a little

 

[QUOTE=fonefiddy]I've allways had better luck rebuilding my own MC's

I take it slow, and easy. I know I can do a better job, than someone sitting at a bench at a rebuild shop, doing the same thing over, and over, and over.....

The ZF5 is a direct bolt on option. The ZF6 is not.

There was a guy that did bolt a ZF6 to his IDI. But, He had access to a machine shop to build a custom mount for the top of the engine, and a custom cross member. All of the holes line up, except for the top 2.

http://forums.ford-trucks.com.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/2459065/site_id/1#import[/QUOTE]

that sounds like its going to be a big pain in the a$$!!!!! lol what would be the pro's and cons to putting a manual 5 speed tranny in vs building my auto trans to withstand the power of putting a turbo on my motor? pro's and cons for driving and towing, and pros and cons to my check book? thanks

 

A BTS E4OD costs around $3K. (the best out there.)

You can swap in a ZF5 for less than half of that. Depending on what you pay for the tranny.

 

I may have misse it, but I didn't notice if you were bleeding with a pressure bleeder or doing it the old fashioned way.
If you don't have a pressure bleeder, one of those Motive Bleeders is one of the best investments you can make. Aside from not needing a helper ( or a divorce lawyer it will bleed the system more thoroughly and avoid any of the problems with tearing up new master cylinder's seals while bleeding.

--------Robert

 

i blead them the old fassion way, have someone pump the peddle and bleed each pleeding port on each wheel and the rabs valve. where do you get a motive bleeder and what does it do? thanks

 

It's a presure bleeder that performs like the big expensive shop bleeders, but at a fraction of the cost See them here
You have to get the one for your vehicle, or get the universal set ( just diferent resivoir adapters ) Worth every penny ( and now, I'm sure the big, "make one yourself "thread will start, but it will end up costing just as much if not more in parts to make one from a garden sprayer etc as it does to buy one already made. The cheapskate in me priced it out before buying one, it's not worth the effort, just the fuel needed to chase down all the parts adds up to darn near the cost of the tool for me ).

A pressure bleeder gets the whole system pressurized and pushing out, and if you have a question of air, the best thing to do is change out all the fluid ( this should be done every 2 years anyway, makes hydraulic parts last years longer, brake fluid absorbs water and if left in, thats where the rusty calipers etc come from ) as you push all the fluid out steadily, any trapped air will be removed, when doing the old up down up down bit, air has a bad habit of finding comfortable high spots and staying there. Then driving you nuts later with a soft pedal.

When using those things remembner to keep an eye on the fluid level in the jug , if it runs dry you'll pump air back into the system and have to start all over.

I always switch back and forth with ATE super blue and amber fluid so I can tell by the colour when it's all changed out.

--------Robert

 

thank you very much i will go and check it out. thanks everyone for all the help on this site. this is the first truck i have had to do a lot of work to. i usually buy newer ones but i like the look of these old trucks. once everything is right i will be very happy with it