So I have began my search for a travel trailer anyone have any suggestions? Also what is a good length? I don't want to be to heavy. I saw one today that had a tongue weight of around 1100lbs that sounds a little to high to me. My neighbor was also telling me about some air shocks that I put air in only when I am towing is this a good idea? And lastly what is the max tongue weight that I can go w/o changing my springs. Any input is very much appreciated.

 

Well as far as toung weight i have 1,400 with is over and I had to get air bags. My Toy Hauler is a Weekend Warrior FSW 3200 and it was fully loaded 13,000 with is over what the X can handle. What I have do to help so far is. 1. Fire stone air bags 2. Helwig anti sway bars. 3. 08 towing mirors. 4. A Eckharts Unlimited hitch. We are going do to Los Angles this week to get it put on,
Nick

 

Eric,

Floorplans are pretty much unlimited...

My suggestion is since RV shows are coming up...you visit some in your area...they give you the opportunity to walk thru all the diffent floor plans to see what fits your family needs...BUT DO NOT BUY AT THE SHOW...find what you like there...it is the best one stop shopping. Compare cabinets workmanship, doors, trims, options, exterior access for storage, tires and wheels, audio equipment, holding tank sizes, heated underbelly, slides, if the WHOLE trailer is accessible when the slides are IN (when you stop on the road for lunch and someone has to use the potty or you need to get in the fridge is when this one is IMPORTANT).

Next look in the kitchen sink cabinet...in there you will see a weight label. It will show UVW (unloaded vehicle weight and some mfgs have the actual shipping weight there). CCC (cargo carrying capacity) and GVWR (UVW + CCC). In there you should also see the tongue weight (TW).

Your Ex same as mine same as everyone's is 'not' rated for much payload due to the weak rear springs...that is a FACT. The axle, drive shaft, trans, wheels, tires, brakes, etc are ALL the same as the F250/350SRW...BUT those freakin springs are what kills our payloads...

You are smart to ask about 'tongue' weight.

As Nick eluded to...your receiver is 'likely' rated at 1250 max tongue in WD mode (you should check the receiver tag to be sure as different year Ex's had various tag weights on what I believe to be the SAME actual receiver).

My last TT was a 27' (30' ball to bumper) 7500# trailer. I only had the rear hellwig and a draw tite WD hitch with Dual Cam (DC) sway control and 1200# trunion bars...it handled the load very well. Tongue weight was right at 950#'s.

This year I went to my 31' (34' ball to bumper) 9000# trailer. The tongue on this is 1100-1200 (depending on my trips). With this one...well I needed some added spring capacity even though I have 1400# WD bars.

Let me say something about WD bars...you need them...you should first attempt to level your setup using the torque created via the WD bars...unfortunately the weak rear springs well sag easily and that task of WD bars only is very very difficult if not impossible. Many on here go with the RideRite air bags. They require you to tweak air pressure...but once you figure out what you need...it is simple to just go back to that pressure...but it does require something on your part...

The route I went was with the RoadMaster Active suspension (RAS). The RAS is a coil spring that sits above the top leaf spring. There is a clamp you put under the top spring keeper plate on the spring stack and then there is a spring hanger that goes over the rear swing shackle for the leaf spring. You adjust the tension in the RAS upon initial setup and that's it! They sit there and when needed 'kick in'. To give you an idea of what they do...they do stiffen up the rear end nicely...I needed to compress my rear springs by 1" to install some shocks as the RAS raised the rear of the truck 1"...the shocks were banded from the factory...so I added about 850-900#'s to the rear of the Ex...and it ONLY SAGGED 7/8" ... the weight I added was live (family, neighbors, water softener salt (dead)...) to achieve that last 1/8" I had to have them 'bounce'!!! So the RAS does add rear leaf capacity but really doesn't harshen up the ride of this TRUCK too much...at least not for my liking. But drop 1100-1200# of tongue on there and adjust the WD bars...and the Ex sits PERFECTLY LEVEL...with no input from me...they are what I call 'passive' capacity.

Another option is to upgrade your rear springs to the F250/350 spring pack...Stewart_H on here as well as others have gone that route with great success...I just didn't feel comfortable tackling that job myself like the RAS...

SO...here you are asking about TT selection and you get a lecture on the Ex rear end... ...sorry...

Oh yeah...some have gone LandYots on the rear of the Ex's...it is my opinion that many of those that went Landyots do not tow much or very heavy that need added spring capacity...I think the combo of the Hellwig and RAS or Hellwig and F250/350 springs will cure the rear end issues of the Ex...I know my RAS/Hellwig has allowed me to tow 5000 care free miles this year alone...so in my experience I've hit on a winner...

Hitch...I mentioned DC above...it is my opinion that the DC or Equal-i-zer are the minimum you will want. Both of these provide WD and Sway control together...the Equal-i-zer is integral whereas the DC is an add on for the Reese WD hitch assembly...but both are very effective.

Get upwards of 31' sized 9000# TT's...well you are getting into the need for a Hensley Arrow or ProPride (my opinion on the need)...but both of these hitches will set you back considerably more...

So what have I told you in all this typing this past 30 seconds ( )...

Well go to area RV shows to find what you like...if your wife is like mine...expect a 31' box and 34' ball to bumper monster...The Ex CAN handle that but balance is critical...first find the floorplan you like and a mfg you like the build quality of...GO HOME and chew on it...then start thinking about what dealer you want to buy from...there are many options and even some on-line places where you can save $$$ depending on your area dealer...if I could have gotten a fair price...I would have gone local...but all my local guys wanted $3000 MORE for the same deal...so I drove 3 hours to save $3000...IMO worth it...

But once you find the 'stuff' you like in the floor plan you like...start researching pricing...once you are ready to seal the deal...make sure you get either a DC or Equal-i-zer with the deal and properly MATCHED WD BARS...also get a Prodigy or P3 brake controller...

After you have this...we can then talk about 'balance' and a trip to the scales...

Hope this doesn't confuse you...if so...ask.

Joe.

 

I am towing a Attitude 26' long toy hauler. I started with a 19' long travel trailer and it had no flexibilty for hauling toys and sleeping many people. I love the toy hauler, I have load quads, I have loaded bycycles, I have gone camping with a leather couch in the back of it LOL.......I love the toy hauler vs. the travel trailer witout a doubt. My 1st trailer weighed 5k, didn't hardly feel behind my 6.0 Ex. The toy hauler is 7k empty, but I have run with 9-11k fully loaded and you definitely know it's back there!! Like the other post are saying go to some RV shows and shop like crazy! Don't rule out toy haulers since they offer so much!

 

Nice lecture joe Haha But anys heres my question about ur lecture. Did u instal the RAS ur self? And i am kinda confused on how it works?

 

Matt,

Draw an 'arc' or semi-circle to represent your leaf springs (i.e. opening UP and closed part of arc DOWN). Put a line from the center of the inside of the semi-circle to one end. Now picture pushing up in the center of that arch to 'flatten' the bow. What would happen to that straight line drawn from the center to the end of the arc?...

Well that line would have to lengthen...the RAS is that line and it is a heavy duty coil spring that RESISTS lengthening and thus adds spring capacity to the leaf springs and aids them in resisting the tendency to allow the axle to push UP INTO the leaf pack.

It is a very simple approach that is very effective.

And yes I did install them myself...I've posted pictures somewhere on here a few times...took about 2 hours of my time...would have been less...but I had some jack issues I needed to work thru!

Did that help?...if not...take a piece of wire and form and arc...take a piece of rubber band to make the connection...flex the wire and watch what happens to the rubber band...the rubber band is the RAS...you are in effect putting a stronger rubber band for the same guage wire and watching how much force you need to 'deflect' the wire...

joe.

 

Yah I second thats we started out with a 27 ft. Eagle by jayco great trailer but to small and could no haul any thing. So we took a huge step to a 35Ft Toy Hauler so keep an open mind,
Nick

 

joe, that makes much better sense now. Where they expensive? Becuase it seems like a cost effect solution instead of paying alot of money for bags

 

Good info here Gents. Any links to see and or buy the RAS ?

 

Hooky, have u tryed to look through google?

 

Not to hijack Eric's thread...and I apologize if I am...if so I'll buy you a beer at the Gatlinburg get together!

But to answer some questions on the RAS...here are some of my install photos. I did it right in the garage the night BEFORE I left for a trip!







For more photos click this link...http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559948409igZknk

As far as info and price. Well I beleive when I bought them they were $279 plus shipping (I think).

They are what I would call a comparably priced option to air bags...but personally I like this option better but that is just my opinion.

I ordered directly from RoadMaster here is the link to their website. http://www.activesuspension.com/

If anyone has any more questions...PM me or see post #23 in this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...pension-2.html

Again...Eric I am sorry for the side track.

joe.

 

Thank you for the response, and I apologize for any hijacking.

 

Some ideas for you based on my personal experience...

1. Stay away from Fleetwood Travel Trailers. My first was a Fleetwood and it had major probelms. But I also read that Fleetwood was getting out of the TT business anyway.
2. Go to as many RV shows as possible to see all types available
3. Do copious amounts of research
4. Go to RV.net and browse through some of the boards there to get opinions, see what others are doing, and ask direct questions about any models you are interested in. Use their search function as well.
5. Have fun in your choice and don't worry about finding the absolute pefect rig. You will always like and dislike certain aspects of your choice. None or them are perfect!

 

OK now that joe has you partially confused! LOL. you can also visit this website if you haven`t already been there. http://www.rv.net. this may help you out, or just completely confuse you.

Good luck!
Kevin!

 

One thing about the RV shows Dont let them put presure on you to buy it there. I will cost you alot more than at the lot,
Nick