Can't get no gas
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Can't get no gas
Forgive me if I'm doing this wrong. My wifes truck is a 1998 ranger, it died on her, again. The last time I wound up pulling the plug on the MAF. It worked for a couple of years. Now it died agaain. It will spin and almost start, it sounds like it isn't getting any fuel. When I turn on the ignition the pump kicks on for a few secounds and then shuts off. Iassumed there was some type of pressure sensor, so I disconnected the fue line in front of the filter, and stuck it in a jug. I turned the key and the same thing happened, the pump runs for a few secounds and then I hear a click from under the hood and the pump shuts off. I'm a dinosaur so this electronic computerized stuff just plum befuddles me, my wife had to show me how to post this. Any help or sugestions would be grestly appreciated. Thanks, Pup E Dawg
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
When you first turn the key to the "on" position, the pump is supposed to run for a second or two and then shut off. It doesn't start running again until the engine starts cranking. You need to have a real fuel pressure test done. Check for proper pressure when the truck is running and under load, and also check to see if there is too much pressure leakdown after the pump stops running.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Yup, that is how it works. It works that way to prevent flooding the engine in the event os a leaking injector. If the computer does not detect the engine is running, the fuel pump is supposed to turn off. So I don't think this is a fuel problem. More than likely, it is a crank or cam position sensor going south on you. Those sensors tell the computer when to fire the plugs and injectors, and if they aren't working, the computer has no choice but to shut down the fuel pump to prevent worse things from happening.
Check for proper fuel pressure, and check for spark. Chances are if you are getting spark, then the computer is getting a signal from the cam position sensor.
Check for proper fuel pressure, and check for spark. Chances are if you are getting spark, then the computer is getting a signal from the cam position sensor.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Abilene Kansas
the cheapest thing any mechanic is going to do first is to replace the fuel filter. even if you disconnect the line, this doesnt prove anything. you almost need to tap into the fuel rail to know the true reading. never take a fuel pressure reading without turning the motor.
Matt
Matt
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Finally managed to get a code to show up on the reader: P1504
BTW: more info on the truck: 98, 5-speed manual, 4WD, 3.0, V-6, 150,000 miles
It still doesn't want to start except for a brief tease that it might think about stating (will hit about 3,000 rpm or so on the initial turn of the key) but then within a couple of seconds says "nope" and dies.
Thanks for the ideas so far. The fuel filter is only a year old, but I'm off to replace it right now. Will check in later.
BTW: more info on the truck: 98, 5-speed manual, 4WD, 3.0, V-6, 150,000 miles
It still doesn't want to start except for a brief tease that it might think about stating (will hit about 3,000 rpm or so on the initial turn of the key) but then within a couple of seconds says "nope" and dies.
Thanks for the ideas so far. The fuel filter is only a year old, but I'm off to replace it right now. Will check in later.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: down south
P1504 Idle Air Control (IAC) Circuit Malfunction (Ford)
Have you pulled a plug and verified both no gas in the cylinder and spark at the plugs?
Have you pulled a plug and verified both no gas in the cylinder and spark at the plugs?
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not yet...just poured some very nasty dark looking gas out of the current fuel filter. Gas coming from the tank looks clean but I'm wondering if there's a way to flush/clear the fuel line or is that something I shouldn't worry about at this point?
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also....something I noticed that the cap to the power steering fluid reservoir was loose and fluid has soaked some sort of controller/sensor/somethingie that (I think) might have something to do with vacuum (because it looks like it has a diaphram). It's located on the fender well, driver's side, right in front of a box of fuses and relays (some kind of control box/load center)
I don't have a manual so don't know what the soaked thingie is.
I don't have a manual so don't know what the soaked thingie is.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Use TB cleaner to clean the IAC. Most of the time you have to replace them. Have you tried giving it a little throttle when you try to start it? You meantioned that your have disconnected teh MAF sensor? I would replace that sensor. The computer relies heavily on that sensor to determine the correct fuel to air ratio. Disconnecting it just causes the computer to run in limp mode all the time.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: down south
My dad always taught me to keep it simple stupid. Basics of motor running. Gas, spark, timing, compression. Basic and easy places to start are gas and spark. Verify that there is gas at the cylinders and spark at the plugs (pull plugs and leave them plugged in and try to start...look for spark and smell gas at cylinder). That will give you a place to start.
Last week I had a doozie because I had a car that would not start. Would turn over, but not catch. I had all of the above.....then realized I had A LOT of gas in the cylinders. Turns out the fuel pressure return line regulator was stuck closed and FLOODING the cylinders.
Last week I had a doozie because I had a car that would not start. Would turn over, but not catch. I had all of the above.....then realized I had A LOT of gas in the cylinders. Turns out the fuel pressure return line regulator was stuck closed and FLOODING the cylinders.
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sorry, was a long lag on the internet and my post went twice, edited this one to be gone...follow next post since I can't delete the duplicate post
(Pup says to say this is the wife since he doesn't know enough to say this )
(Pup says to say this is the wife since he doesn't know enough to say this )
Last edited by Pup E Dawg; Dec 10, 2007 at 08:28 PM.
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OK, my bad!
Wife took a picture of the one spark plug I pulled....
I didn't know why it quit, now I don't know how it ever ran! I swear to God I have never seen a plug this bad, and I have been wrenching on my own junk for many, many moons. This thing must have a 1/4 inch gap! I got all caught up in what I didn't know about these new vehicles and forgot everything I've learned in the last four decades of spinning wrenches on the old junk. Thanks mfp for reminding me of the same thing my own dad told me (and I was on the phone with him tonight about just this). I guess you don't really need to go back to the basics, you just need to stay with them wherever you go. I'll let you know tomorrow how it went with the new plugs. Thanks again everybody for all the input.
Pup E. Dawg
Wife took a picture of the one spark plug I pulled....
I didn't know why it quit, now I don't know how it ever ran! I swear to God I have never seen a plug this bad, and I have been wrenching on my own junk for many, many moons. This thing must have a 1/4 inch gap! I got all caught up in what I didn't know about these new vehicles and forgot everything I've learned in the last four decades of spinning wrenches on the old junk. Thanks mfp for reminding me of the same thing my own dad told me (and I was on the phone with him tonight about just this). I guess you don't really need to go back to the basics, you just need to stay with them wherever you go. I'll let you know tomorrow how it went with the new plugs. Thanks again everybody for all the input.
Pup E. Dawg