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2 days 2 problems with truck, scared to see what happens tomorrow.
Battery light on dash came on at start up last night, started to flicker as I got RPM's up and then went off at high RPM's. Light went off the rest of the way home. This morning light was on at start up and flickered again at high RPM but then stayed on and did not go off. Any ideas? Alternator going bad? Did not throw any codes that my Superchips picked up. Batteries are about 2-3 months new. Gauge shows 12-13 volts.
From what you are describing, my truck has been doing the same thing since I purchased it. ( over 2 years ). The only differance is mine stay's on for a while and then goes off. What I have read on this site, is leading to the alternator going south. I believe I read somewhere where it is possible that a diode in the alternator is going bad, but I'm not exactly sure. I do know that I have heard of this before and the fine people on this site said to replace the alternator. I haven't replaced mine yet, but I probable should. My truck seems to be charging ok, and the batteries seem ok, so I just haven't replaced it. Hope this helps, Just my .02. Good Luck
Last edited by 670johndeere; Dec 4, 2007 at 09:03 AM.
hhmmm... Sounds like a weak alternator to me. Mine came on and stayed on. Replaced with a new one (not reman) back in June and it has been fine so far. There is a place to get some really heavy duty alts, which I wish I knew about before I bought mine from AZ for almost $200. For not a lot more, I could've had a 160A heavy duty, or even a REALLY stout 200A...
I had this problem a while back and finally traced it to the push in wiring connector on the top of the alt. The clip had become loose and the connector was not completely seated.
You know, you might also check out the battery cables. Come to think of it, my Bronco had a similar problem and it turned out to be cables that were very corroded (actually inside the cable, not the connectors!).
I did give my connections a thought but thought I would see that on my gauge. I'll check that at lunch while I check my 4x4 vac issues. Good way to lose weight, work on truck instead of eating.
a "kwik" mod that may save you some money for a bit. take a number 6awg wire from the alt terminal straight to positive of the battery. I believe his mod has a ground wire ran to the engine as well, I used a #3awg incase I ever go to heavier alt. by the way, use copper, not alumn wire.
If you want pictures, send a pm with your email, I take a couple and send them to you.
I started looking for a replacement alternator after I took my 2000's apart to replace the rear bearing and noticed excessive brush and commutator-ring wear. The grooves worn into the ring were about 3/32" deep, with commensurate brush wear, so it was just a matter of time. I had no charging problems at all at the time.
I found a guy on eBay selling a stock (105-amp) one from a 2005 6-oh. Got it for $20 + shipping. Replaced the rear bearing in it, just to be sure, and everything looked brand-new inside, including the brushes.
It continues to do its job, and I've got a "temporary", grooved, substitute on the shelf.
I started looking for a replacement alternator after I took my 2000's apart to replace the rear bearing and noticed excessive brush and commutator-ring wear. The grooves worn into the ring were about 3/32" deep, with commensurate brush wear, so it was just a matter of time. I had no charging problems at all at the time.
I found a guy on eBay selling a stock (105-amp) one from a 2005 6-oh. Got it for $20 + shipping. Replaced the rear bearing in it, just to be sure, and everything looked brand-new inside, including the brushes.
It continues to do its job, and I've got a "temporary", grooved, substitute on the shelf.
Yes, believe it or not! Unfortunately, you can't just buy "brushes" any more, as a 6G uses a regulator with sealed-in brushes incorporated as part of it. The regulator is around $35, on average, and different "qualities" are offered for sale. You can buy diode packs, though I have not seen individual diodes for sale. Stator windings, too. Bearings are available through any good bearing house, but the rear one is a "wide" variant of a standard size. When you're ready to actually do the job, I'll look it up again.
One neg terminal was a little loose so I tightened it, battery light still on. Removed both positive connections hoping it just needed to be "reset" and light would go off, no luck-fricken light still there. Termination on top of alt. is snapped in good. Looking more and more like a tired alt.
just another truck-can you explain to me how the wire will help me of the alt is bad?
Yours has done this for two years and you haven't had a dead battery or anything? Have you had the alternator checked at all?
Yes it has, and I haven't had it checked. I figured it would start showing the normal signs of alt. failure. (batteries dead, slow cranking, etc) but it never has, so I just keep driving. I just figured it was something simple like Brandon said, that's why I havent' replaced it yet I guess.