Floppy Gear shift:
#1
Floppy Gear shift:
My 1952 F-1 with column shift seems like the linkage has a lot of play in it.The rubber and bushings in arms are ok.It is from something else.Can the linkage be adjusted or should I just leave alone?Could worn cab mounts have anything to do with it?The gears change good,except going to second gear when it is cold is a little stiff.
#2
Best thing to do is to clamp the shift arms on the tranny so they cannot move then work the shifter to find out where the play is. If the exposed linkage and bushings are not worn it's likely at the top of the column. It's possible it's in the tranny but more likely in the column. They never were real tight to begin with.
The stiffness when cold is likely due to old or lack of grease in the shifter tube.
I'd probably pull the column out and disassemble the shifter tube. You'll likely find the answers to the stiff shifting and slop in the shifter in there.
The stiffness when cold is likely due to old or lack of grease in the shifter tube.
I'd probably pull the column out and disassemble the shifter tube. You'll likely find the answers to the stiff shifting and slop in the shifter in there.
Last edited by AXracer; 12-04-2007 at 07:42 AM.
#3
#4
#5
Originally Posted by leonharu
Ok the flop seems to be in the tube itself.The rubber insulator at stick is gone.Does this have anything to do with the flop?Is there a pin or something down were the linkage is that can be worn or the whole shifting tube worn out?
Both parts are still there?
This is the usual cause for slop or binding in the gearshift lever.
1948/56 F1/F100 thru F6/F600
2-B4C-7343-A .. Steering Column Selector Lever Bushings-Nylon
2-AD-7341-A .. Steering Column Selector Lever Insulators-Rubber
1-B2AZ-7343-A .. Kit. Steering Column Selector Lever Bushings (consists of 2 each of the above)
FYI = Green Sales has 10 of the original bushings, 4 of the insulators & one bushing kit = 800-543-4959.
If you snooze...you lose.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 12-04-2007 at 09:55 AM.
#6
#7
I've never taken apart an F1 column specifically, but most all are based on the same mechanics, either the sockets in the tube and/or the pivot where the rollpin goes thru the lever gets heavily worn with use especially when the tubes start binding or sticking due to lack of lubricant or wear. Maybe someone has an expoded drawing of the column shift mechanism.
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#8
I've just recently taken mine apart. On the end of the shifter arm there is a ball which nests into a socket in the shift tube. If there is alot of wear on that ball, or in the socket in the shift tube (or both), that could cause some play. To remove the shift arm from the tube, there are two pins 180 deg apart which are spring loaded. Depress both of these pins and the arm should pull straight out. Be careful as the pins will want to go flying when they get free of the shift tube (don't ask me how i know this...... ).
#11
I just went through my catalogs - Macs Antique Auto Parts has the "Shift Lever Fulcrum Pin" - pt#01A-7219. I can't find anyone who sells the lever itself.
The fulcrum pin is the part that appears to be rivetted to the top of the steering column. The ball on the end of the shift lever nests in a socket in this pin. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the pin and replace it.
As far as the insulator - I don't think it has much to do with the play in the shifter since all of the movement is controled by the two spring loaded pins that hold the lever in place. The lever pivots on those pins. It is only there for looks more than anything.
The fulcrum pin is the part that appears to be rivetted to the top of the steering column. The ball on the end of the shift lever nests in a socket in this pin. I don't know how easy it will be to remove the pin and replace it.
As far as the insulator - I don't think it has much to do with the play in the shifter since all of the movement is controled by the two spring loaded pins that hold the lever in place. The lever pivots on those pins. It is only there for looks more than anything.
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