porting tools advice
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Mddl A MexCans
porting tools advice
ok not gonna give up. the 2nd head came out really nice with the bit. Now it's onto the sanding/polishing stage.. I'm trying to use a dremel sanding wheel which works well on the sides up until you cant reach any futher. It doesnt do well in the corners however and if you try to make it the head ot the wheel always seems to make a mess of the side again. Soooooooo any advice from folks who have had good results with there method/tools. I was thinking some kind of get up like the aluminum wheel polish ball would bee ideal with emery compound. But rather sure it wouldnt last for more than a few seconds. Maybe a few strands of coat hanger enwrapped in a small piece of old bath towel ?? I'm just tossing up ideas here.... lets hear it folks... 
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Well Bobby, I havent used the dremel it quite some time.... and I'am not sure if they make a flap wheel for them....?
But when I was Into GM's and did some port cleanup I used a Air tool...and a small compresser....for polish work.... I just looked in my Dremel Box and the last set of Wheels I bought for it was a 120 piece set....and there wasnt any Flap wheels in there or any fine tootsie rolls for polish work....
But I think you'll find the mandrel on the dremel wont be long enough to get where you need to go in the port....and that damn thing must get hotter than hell in your hand... I have burnt up 2 of them just polishing aluminum trim work...lol
RJ
But when I was Into GM's and did some port cleanup I used a Air tool...and a small compresser....for polish work.... I just looked in my Dremel Box and the last set of Wheels I bought for it was a 120 piece set....and there wasnt any Flap wheels in there or any fine tootsie rolls for polish work....
But I think you'll find the mandrel on the dremel wont be long enough to get where you need to go in the port....and that damn thing must get hotter than hell in your hand... I have burnt up 2 of them just polishing aluminum trim work...lol
RJ
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: CT
Standard Abrasives has a pretty good DIY tech page. Shows some how to's and kits they sell.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself/aspx
EDIT...The page itself won't load but click on the DIY section and it comes right up.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself/aspx
EDIT...The page itself won't load but click on the DIY section and it comes right up.
Last edited by FFR428; Dec 3, 2007 at 05:16 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by FFR428
Standard Abrasives has a pretty good DIY tech page. Shows some how to's and kits they sell.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself/aspx
EDIT...The page itself won't load but click on the DIY section and it comes right up.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself/aspx
EDIT...The page itself won't load but click on the DIY section and it comes right up.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself.aspx should work
John
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Eastwoods makes a nice porting kit. That is what I use!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
I use an air die grinder when I port out a set of heads.....
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
I use an air die grinder when I port out a set of heads.....
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Logistics Pro
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From: Mddl A MexCans
I used a die grinder for the porting I more or less ment the finish work polishing I should have said...sorry
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Originally Posted by Redmanbob
I used a die grinder for the porting I more or less ment the finish work polishing I should have said...sorry
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Postmaster
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by Ford428CJ
Believe it or not. Don't make the ports to smooth. Your better off to leave them a little rough (or a rough Finnish with 80 grit paper). Your flow will be better then a real smooth Finnish......JMO
On the exhaust there's no reason not to go with as close to a mirror finish as possible. Smoother finish=lower frictional losses=improved flow volume.
On a the intake side something in the 80ish grit range is about right to induce just enough turbulence to keep the fuel suspended without significantly hindering flow. Slightly rougher finish=improved flow quality.
Justin
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From: Mddl A MexCans
OK read the DIY article that was great info thanks a ton Glenn/John(for the fixed link). The intakes I just brushed at to get the crud out(carbon and roughest slag bits) it's probably 60 girt to the feel in there at the moment. The exhaust "on the good head" is rounded and smooth rolling everywhere, even at the exit it was rolled outward. Then started with the sanding wheel 80 grit and it is polished looking but hell to get up in there with.. I'll try some homemade rolls that are in mind and se if they work and post the results.. promise to stay away from any water jackets
Elder User
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Originally Posted by hoxiii
I'm going to agree and disagree all at once.
On the exhaust there's no reason not to go with as close to a mirror finish as possible. Smoother finish=lower frictional losses=improved flow volume.
On a the intake side something in the 80ish grit range is about right to induce just enough turbulence to keep the fuel suspended without significantly hindering flow. Slightly rougher finish=improved flow quality.
Justin
On the exhaust there's no reason not to go with as close to a mirror finish as possible. Smoother finish=lower frictional losses=improved flow volume.
On a the intake side something in the 80ish grit range is about right to induce just enough turbulence to keep the fuel suspended without significantly hindering flow. Slightly rougher finish=improved flow quality.
Justin
Last edited by Ford428CJ; Dec 3, 2007 at 07:49 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Madison, SD
and without a flow bench to check the results of the porting work, anything more then a bit of match porting to the gasket is little more then guesswork.... Smoothing the exhaust does help a lot, however the exhaust flow has to be balanced out with the intake flow as a percentage to realize any gains from porting....
Elder User
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From: Klamath Falls OR
One thing that will help an FE head flow would be to open up the bowl area just above the seat. If you make it a little bigger then the valve, your flow will pick up quite a bit. For the most part. If you can be real consistent on your port job (making all the ports the same). Then you are doing real good.
Also on 2 of the ports on the intake, you can take out the lumps in the roof of the port. But if you do that. Make sure you seal your rocker shaft bolts. And you will be fine!
Also on 2 of the ports on the intake, you can take out the lumps in the roof of the port. But if you do that. Make sure you seal your rocker shaft bolts. And you will be fine!
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