Ok, I have heard that when you first start an engine that you have put together if you use synthetic, it will eat it up. Is this true? because I think it is just one big load of road apples. This came from a guy who works at Advance auto parts the "dealer" counter guy. You guys let me know whats up. thanks in advance to whomever replies to my thread.

 

It won't "eat the motor up", but the rings won't break in correctly. synthetic is "too slick". For initial startup and at least the first 500 miles or so you should run a conventional oil.

Justin

 

ok so it is mainly for the piston ring break in then, alright thanks.

 

the synthetic oil makes the cylinders very slick so the honing wont quickly wear the rings to proper tension. It also makes it so bearings do not break in very quick. You CAN use it but it will make your break in period VERY long. I use just a regular conventional oil for the first 1000 miles.

 

So atleast 500 miles to 1000 then with conventional for break-in cycle. Anything else?

 

So Im assuming this is your first engine break in. Prime your motor before you fire it! Prime it for about 2minutes! as soon as it starts, check the timing! I like to run it about 10 degrees at idle.

As soon as its good. Raise the idle to 1800 to 2000rpm. Run it for about 15 minutes fluttering the gas. example:2000 to 2200. DO NOT keep it at a constant rpm. It will not kill your engine if you do but it breaks things in a little more evenly if your moving the engine speed.

KEEP checking for leaks. Keep extra oil near by, coolant, and keep rags near. You want to avoid stopping the engine. IT DOES NOT hurt your motor if you must shut it down. But you will have to run it again at 2000 to make sure its broken in.

Run the motor with the radiator cap off for the first minute or two then put the cap on. You wanna make sure your coolant is full. I fill the over flow box full to make sure its full. DO NOT! over heat that motor!

So run it 2000'ish rpm for 15 -20min. Fluttering the gas. Checking for leaks n such. Keep a constant eye on the gauges. Listen for odd noises.

After the inital break in crank all the bolts down again. Keep checking the bolts for the first 500miles. Then your good to go!

Keep it under 3500rpm for 500 miles at least. No WOT. And always when driving it to keep shifting. Do not maintain the same engine RPM's. Very it.

Good luck let us know what happens.

 

BOLTS as in valve covers, intake, etc meaning every bolt on the engine or just particular sets of bolts.

 

Well dont tear it down again to check the mains.

I mean like intake, carb base, valve covers, head bolts (re-torque), oil pan, exhaust gaskets, timing chain and water pump.

Timing chain and water pump arent really needed but if ya really want to.

Oh! I forgot to add. If this is a new cam shaft. You need to change the oil after your initial break in. so new oil before start, change after inital, then at 500miles. Dont forget the new filters!

 

Yeah i wouldnt tear the heads off n such just for mains. I was just checkin because i havent done this for 2 years and needed a refresher, thanks.

 

It could / would destroy a flat tapet cam as well. The lubricating properties that they need to break in are not in synthetic oil. I'm not sure if it would work with a conditioner added, but why take a chance.

 

True to that man. That is why I posted this question(s).

 

i would recommend trying to borrow "break in" rocker arms with a much lower ratio if you have a high lift flat tappet..like 1.3:1 so alot of initial stress during crucial break in periods.

also, doesnt ford break in the mustang's engines with synthetic oil? this is something ive heard.

 

Mustang engines probably have roller cams, so you could break them in with cyn.
"Break in rockers" Never heard of such a thing ? Maby you mean valve springs ? To remove the center valve spring on a dual spring is a standard practice for break in if you are running dual springs.

 

When it comes to break in period on an engine, here is what the ford manufacture says. it has worked well with at least a dozen motors for me.

1 - Make sure you use a non detergent oil for the first 500 miles.
2 - Crank the engine and let idle until at operating temp. do not rev engine.
3 - Check for any leaks.
4 - If no leaks, then turn off engine and check all fluid levels, adding as necessary.
5 - Restart engine and find a road that you can run between 30-50 mph.
6 - Accelerate slowly to 30 mph
7 - Once at 30 accelerate normally to 50 mph and let vehicle coast to 30.
8 - Repeat steps 6 & 7 a dozen or more times then park vehicle for at least 12 hours, allowing to cool completely.
9 - Drive vehicle normally, not babying or over-accelerating, for 500-750 miles.
10 - Chane oil to a standard high detergent conventional or synthetic oil and consider the motor to be broken in properly.

 

If your engine is a brand new crate motor you can break it like gearhead351 and odom1957 told you. But if it is a rebuilt engine that you had it bored and put in a new set of pistons with moly rings and also a cast iron type cam and lifters and stock style rockers. You should break it in using this method so not to do damage to any metal to metal parts. Remember a new engine will create a lot of heat (friction). Stay away from synthetic products it will cause galling of metal parts and your bearings, and as mentioned the rings will not seat to the bore. I use ONLY racing oil for my break ins. You should never have to retorque any engine bolts after they where torqued and long as everthing was cleaned and lubed correctly before installation. Most moly rings are LOW friction. Make sure your cooling system is up to the job before starting your engine because you will be running it for and hour or two to break it in correctly. So make sure your timing can be set right away to much advance is better that being retarded. I always set my using total timing of 30 degrees for break in time. The (break rocker arms) that where mentioned is to put less pressure on the valve train to keep the springs from wearing out to soon from the break in heat (friction). 15 to 20 minutes is NOT enough time to break in a rebuilt engine. I owned a Speed shop and built and installed over three thousand engine in vehicles. I built most of the engines myself. We tried many methods but what worked best was to run the engine at 180 degrees to 200 degrees temp for a minmum of one hour if the engine had a billet roller cam and if it was built with a cast cam we ran it as long as two hours to break in all metal to metal parts. Keep your eyes on the oil pressure and the water temp and oil temp. If the engine starts getting to warm put a big fan in front of the vehicle and cool it down DO NOT TURN OFF THE ENGINE. Now if it is an all out race engine things are differant. Thats because it is built with all the proper specs for all parts. Blueprinting! So it is clearanced for a lot less friction meaning horsepower. Now a race motor can be broke in with only 15 to 20 minutes of break in time. you should change the oil and filters after you are finished with the break in. The performance bearings made today are a lot better than they used to be with better coatings. Now after that is done break in the engine like odon1957 told you and it will give you a lot of great years of service. Remeber all factory engines are broke in before being installed or shipped out to the customer. After about 5000 miles you can start using synthetic oil in your engine only if it is a stock type engine. A blueprinted race engine put synthetic oil in it right away. The reason you run the engine at 1800 to 2000 RPM's is to keep the load off the valve train and helps engine run cooler. Make sure your fan is sucking plenty of air thru the radiator. Sometimes with big block engines you have to use water to help it keep cool for the first hour, so be ready to use a water hose to keep it cool. I use water only to break in a new engine. after break in I then install new antifreeze. The only bolts that should need to be retightened are header bolts. But a lot of guys like to check every bolt its up to you. Its better to be safe than sorry. remember not run the carb to lean at break in time it is better to be a little rich with your mixture. Most injected engines will not have problem. And I always add extra oil and temp gauges to monitor the engine while breaking it in. Remeber to leave the engine at steady RPM during break in time lowering the RPM as time goes on no lower than 1500 RPM's. Good luck with your project. Ron