Notices

Engine break-in question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #16  
EPNCSU2006's Avatar
EPNCSU2006
Lead Driver
20 Year Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
Everyone has their way of breaking in an engine, so if you have something that works, go for it... but:

keeping the rpm up gets the lifters spinning and keeps them from wiping the lobes off of the cam (flat tappet cams). Cam break-in only takes a half hour at most, then change the oil and go driving. The rings will seat better and quicker if the engine has some load on it instead of just sitting in the shop holding the engine at a fast idle (a well broken-in engine will also generate pretty much the same amount of heat if it were sitting still at 1800-2500 rpm with no load). Smoothly cycling between high cylinder pressure (more throttle, more load) and very low cylinder pressure (vacuum, no load, no throttle) also helps to seat the rings and keep them free of any build-up from the break-in process. Change the oil again at 500 miles then proceed as normal.

This comes from a reliable machine shop as well, which deals with stock, street performance, and race engines.
 
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2008 | 09:21 PM
  #17  
unleashed's Avatar
unleashed
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: ida,va.
Jus' my two cents worth. I am in process right now of building up a tunnel-rammed 347 for my latest project.I just bought the "k" kit from comp cams,and they just confirmed what I've been doing for years in my engines!! They say to use a virgin-type oil instead of synths.They recommend shell's rotella-t type. I have been using this as a break-in lube for a number of years.I run it for approx,1000 miles then switch over to castrol,which I use exclusively in my ford power plants. Just my two cents worth. Good luck with it. Now,anyone got a link for a good small-block head porting site??
 
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #18  
mark a.'s Avatar
mark a.
Lead Driver
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
Even diesel oils are loosing their zink now. I would do some research before dumping any brand in.
 
Reply
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 02:45 PM
  #19  
78F150XLT's Avatar
78F150XLT
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: On a farm in Alberta.
Originally Posted by Christie McGill
Mustang engines probably have roller cams, so you could break them in with cyn.
"Break in rockers" Never heard of such a thing ? Maby you mean valve springs ? To remove the center valve spring on a dual spring is a standard practice for break in if you are running dual springs.
I ahve a 302 in a 95 F150. The 95-96 302's had a roller camjust liek the mustangs. I too am rebulding my motor, should i break it in with symthetic since its got a roller or no?
 
Reply
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 03:35 PM
  #20  
385seriesHemi's Avatar
385seriesHemi
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Malvern, Ohio
Originally Posted by mrford49
If your engine is a brand new crate motor you can break it like gearhead351 and odom1957 told you. But if it is a rebuilt engine that you had it bored and put in a new set of pistons with moly rings and also a cast iron type cam and lifters and stock style rockers. You should break it in using this method so not to do damage to any metal to metal parts. Remember a new engine will create a lot of heat (friction). Stay away from synthetic products it will cause galling of metal parts and your bearings, and as mentioned the rings will not seat to the bore. I use ONLY racing oil for my break ins. You should never have to retorque any engine bolts after they where torqued and long as everthing was cleaned and lubed correctly before installation. Most moly rings are LOW friction. Make sure your cooling system is up to the job before starting your engine because you will be running it for and hour or two to break it in correctly. So make sure your timing can be set right away to much advance is better that being retarded. I always set my using total timing of 30 degrees for break in time. The (break rocker arms) that where mentioned is to put less pressure on the valve train to keep the springs from wearing out to soon from the break in heat (friction). 15 to 20 minutes is NOT enough time to break in a rebuilt engine. I owned a Speed shop and built and installed over three thousand engine in vehicles. I built most of the engines myself. We tried many methods but what worked best was to run the engine at 180 degrees to 200 degrees temp for a minmum of one hour if the engine had a billet roller cam and if it was built with a cast cam we ran it as long as two hours to break in all metal to metal parts. Keep your eyes on the oil pressure and the water temp and oil temp. If the engine starts getting to warm put a big fan in front of the vehicle and cool it down DO NOT TURN OFF THE ENGINE. Now if it is an all out race engine things are differant. Thats because it is built with all the proper specs for all parts. Blueprinting! So it is clearanced for a lot less friction meaning horsepower. Now a race motor can be broke in with only 15 to 20 minutes of break in time. you should change the oil and filters after you are finished with the break in. The performance bearings made today are a lot better than they used to be with better coatings. Now after that is done break in the engine like odon1957 told you and it will give you a lot of great years of service. Remeber all factory engines are broke in before being installed or shipped out to the customer. After about 5000 miles you can start using synthetic oil in your engine only if it is a stock type engine. A blueprinted race engine put synthetic oil in it right away. The reason you run the engine at 1800 to 2000 RPM's is to keep the load off the valve train and helps engine run cooler. Make sure your fan is sucking plenty of air thru the radiator. Sometimes with big block engines you have to use water to help it keep cool for the first hour, so be ready to use a water hose to keep it cool. I use water only to break in a new engine. after break in I then install new antifreeze. The only bolts that should need to be retightened are header bolts. But a lot of guys like to check every bolt its up to you. Its better to be safe than sorry. remember not run the carb to lean at break in time it is better to be a little rich with your mixture. Most injected engines will not have problem. And I always add extra oil and temp gauges to monitor the engine while breaking it in. Remeber to leave the engine at steady RPM during break in time lowering the RPM as time goes on no lower than 1500 RPM's. Good luck with your project. Ron
Thanks man, lots of VERY useful information. I believe I learned more in 15mins reading your reply and everyone elses than I did in engines class in school a couple years ago. Thanks everyone!!
 
Reply
Old May 28, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #21  
TheNomad's Avatar
TheNomad
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 533
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Not to jump in to the middle of any thing.
I see why its not a good idea to use Syn in the break in.
but does this also go for syn Assembly Lubes ?
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F-250 WARHORSE
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Mar 24, 2017 11:25 AM
alchemist1
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
Jun 27, 2013 04:08 AM
sidwaz
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
9
Feb 10, 2009 06:35 PM
scott9320
Performance & General Engine Building
11
Feb 7, 2002 07:53 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:45 PM.

story-0
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals

Slideshow: Top 10 Fords at 2026 Ford Nationals

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-06-09 11:10:08


VIEW MORE
story-1
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership

Based on years of owning multiple modern Ford products.

By Brett Foote | 2026-06-09 10:53:36


VIEW MORE
story-2
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches

SPONSORED: From muddy boots to rain-soaked cargo, these upgrades address some of the most common frustrations Ford truck owners face every day.

By Pouria Savadkouei | 2026-06-08 18:50:34


VIEW MORE
story-3
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained

Here's everything you need to know about every Ford engine available for the 2026 model year.

By Brett Foote | 2026-06-05 12:58:01


VIEW MORE
story-4
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love

Slideshow: 10 ugly Ford trucks that we still kinda love.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-06-03 09:51:16


VIEW MORE
story-5
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)

Slideshow: the best gifts for dads & grads

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-06-03 15:43:58


VIEW MORE
story-6
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath

Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.

By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-06-03 11:38:36


VIEW MORE
story-7
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer

Slideshow: 10 most expensive Ford trucks ever sold on Bring a Trailer.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-27 16:24:34


VIEW MORE
story-8
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)

Here's everything that has changed for the latest model year.

By Brett Foote | 2026-05-27 16:17:28


VIEW MORE
story-9
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies

Slideshow: Top 10 Ford truck tragedies.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-18 19:34:33


VIEW MORE