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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

front clip mounting

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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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From: Hughson
front clip mounting

Hello i have a 1948 ford F1 and am in the process of putting it back together.

I was just wondering how the front fenders and inner fender wells mount up to the cab and frame.

Does anyone have any pictures or information?

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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There are different ways to start. I like to start with the inner fender panels, grill, filler panels (top & bottom), fender tops and then fender bottoms. Loosely bolting everything together first and then tightening everything, adjusting the panels as I go.

I also cut notches in the fender welting, sliding it in just before final tightening:

 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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I used weatherstrip cement and glued the fender welt in place before assembly. That way you don't have to fight keeping it in place as you align the parts and tighten it up. I assembled the grill, fenders, and inner fenders. I then bolted in the radiator support and the fender support braces. We set the whole thing on at once. the radiator support will hold up the front, so you only have to get two bolts in at the firewall, while your holding it up. It makes the job pretty easy.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 03:44 PM
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One more thing I would like to add. I don't like mounting pre-painted panels so I edge paint the panels first, bolt the panels together and then do the final paint. I would rather scratch a primed part than a painted part. Again, there are different ways of doing things but this is how I do it. With all of the seams in the body there are many different tape off areas.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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bob, do you have the same illustrations for the cab, bed and rear fenders? My cab was striped and the bed was hacked by PO making the side rails really loose. would be greatly appreciated I also have a 48 F1
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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I couldn't find a drawing of the '48-50 or '50-52 boxes, I have them for the later model box, '53 and up. I do have these two:





LMC has a box drawing in their catalog but it's not too detailed.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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Great, thanks for the pics!! I pulled the bed off today and 2 bolts and a stearing column away from pulling the cab. Didn't spend much time try'n because I had to plow the dang snow thats building up but anyways. How does the stearing column disconnect? I'm sure I'll get it eventully but any tips or tricks would be great.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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If you can lift your cab high enough you can get over the steering column but I always take it completely out, one less thing to get caught while trying to get the cab off.

First, you'll have to pull the steering wheel. There should be two, fine thread 5/16" threaded hole under the horn cap. Sometimes they get filled with crud and you'll have to did them out. Sometimes they're not there and you will have to drill and tap the holes. Use a puller, or some have applied pressure on the bottom of the steering wheel with their upper legs while beating with a big hammer. I like using a puller. Make sure to thread the big nut on the hollow shaft to protect the threads and insert a large bolt in the hole so you will have something to push the puller against. After you have the wheel off remove the pitman are from the splined shaft coming out of the steering box. You can soak it with penetrating oil and use a puller. I use a torch and larger screw driver. I heat the pitman arm up until it's red and pry against the frame. It always pops off this way. Just don't heat it too much. Remove the three bolts holding the steering box to the frame and weasle it out. If you can raise the truck as high off the ground as possible it will help get the entire steering mechanism out from under the truck. Or set it down as low as you can and wait until the cab is off and then pull it up through the frame.

The hardest part in getting the cab of is the clutch and brake pedals. I will guarantee they will get caught in the opening when you get the cab up so high. If you don't remove the pedals at least make sure you remove the rubber pedal.

Good luck, I've done it quite a few times, it's always fun.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Wow thanks again, the good and bad of the cluch and brake pedles, the PO put in a 289 and butchered the frame also adding the automatic butchering the cab flooring. good news no clutch to get caught up on. has an aftermarket setup thats easy to pull off, which makes it harder to figure out what it looked like after the PO rewrote the dummies guide to botching up a great truck. As soon as I get the pictures I'll post them for all to wonder what the H E doudle hockey sticks he was thinking.

Thanks again
 
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