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Thanks in advance for any and all help with this problem!
I've had my '61 F100 only a month, and one time the heater blew warm air. Every other time, it has blown cold. It is the 2-speed version with the dual ***** under the dash, and the water control valve under the hood seems to be working.
I also noticed that the truck almost never warms up to operating temp. according to the temp. gauge.
Where should I begin with the diagnosis?
Also, as an added bonus, the wipers don't work. Turn them on, and they flinch once, but don't move. They also did work once in the past 30 days, much like the heater...
What would be the thinking behind removing the thermostat? Also, I noticed that there were clothes pins on the fuel line going into the carb. My dad said this was an old theory about preventing vapor lock. Could those be related?
The heater temperature control valve may seem to be working, but just because the lever that the cable attaches to is free, and moves back and forth doesn't mean the valve is opening. Those buggers rust out internally, and then either the lever binds up or swings freely back and forth.
Is the heater hose from the valve to the heater core hot? It should be, if the valve is actually open.
C3UZ-18495-A .. Heater Valve (Motorcraft YG-133) Still available from Ford. List price $33.62.
The thermostats used thru 1966 are larger in diameter than ones used from 1967 to now..one reason why it might be missing. Not all the parts stores carry that older t/stat. A previous owner's t/stat failed, and he couldn't find a new one.
Motorcraft RT-16 .. Thermostat 160 degree
Motorcraft RT-8 .. Thermostat 180 degree
Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 27, 2007 at 12:19 PM.
The old thermostat may have stuck causing overheating and got pulled and never replaced. The old adage "If it's workin', don't fix it." applies to many of these old trucks.
Also, did you check your coolant level?(sorry, had to ask)
I don't see how clothes pins on the fuel line could have an effect on the operating temperature.
I don't see how clothes pins on the fuel line could have an effect on the operating temperature.
Clothes pins on the fuel lines was an old trick used to help dissipate heat and prevent vapor lock.
Another trick was wrapping the lines with asbestos.
Ppl used to poor cold water on the lines, on 6 cylinders that could and did lead to cracked exhaust manifolds.
Vapor lock was once theMAJOR reason why a vehicle wouldn't start. Hot air under the hood vaporized the fuel in the gas lines leading to the carb. Electric fuel pumps, rerouting the fuel lines away from hot exhaust manifolds and 12 volt batteries all contributed to the demise of vapor lock.
Vapor lock had been around for years, but really reared its ugly head when OHV V8 engines were introduced. All the OHV V8's used 6 volt batteries then. GM was the first to switch to 12 volt batteries in 1951, Ford went to 12 volt batteries in 1956.
When the early OHV V8's engines were hot, it was very difficult to get them to start, because the 6 volt batteries lacked the cranking amps. Add vapor lock, the battery will go dead before the vehicle would start. A very common occurence once.
LOL...and ppl complain today about ignition modules..they don't remember back when...
Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 27, 2007 at 12:45 PM.
Another cause of loss of heat is a low coolant condition. Nothing to pump through the coil means no heat.
Also check the coil as they do tend to block after an overheat with all the crap stirred up by the high temps.
The T stat trick is a method of keeping the motor cooler and getting air out. Typically is done with a bad head gasket to let captures air outr and past to burp out the overflow. The engine requires the t stat to maintain a range of operation for effiecent operation. Run too cool and it like the choke being on.
Do you think the guy I bought it from a month ago was trying to hide something? I did notice when I checked the oil that the dipstick was a little milky... Not bad, but definately not pure oil. He also mentioned that he changed the oil just before delivery... looking back, I may have been duped. Regardless, it's a great truck and whatever needs fixed is worth fixing.
Milk on the dip stick is a not up to operating tempature thing. When your engine gets up to correct temp the moisture is dissapated. Does not necessarily mean there are internal issues. Now if it look like flowing Mocha cappichino?
Sounds like no T stat, to possibly hide other issues. Maybe not....
Its a simple 2 bolts to tell if its there or not. Put the correct one back in for the application with a 1/8" hole drilled in the face to allow it to burp all the air out.
The old thermostat may have stuck causing overheating and got pulled and never replaced. The old adage "If it's workin', don't fix it." applies to many of these old trucks. Also, did you check your coolant level?(sorry, had to ask)
I don't see how clothes pins on the fuel line could have an effect on the operating temperature.
That usually causes over heating, not too low of an engine temp.
The thermostat will allow the engine to reach ideal temperature quicker but if stuck closed will cause the engine to overheat. When removed, the engine will be slow to warm up. Additionally, the radiator cap should allow the closed system to build between 9 and 13 pounds of pressure which keeps the boiling point of the water/coolant above the standard 212º F. At 15 pounds, a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water takes the boiling point to 265ºF. If the PO had the cap removed or loose in addition to the thermostat being taken out, you might suspect a coolant leak into the oil via intake or heads. The added pressure to the coolant system causes that type of problem to be worse.