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Assuming you are running all 3 axles from the same controller? Would suggest you add a small series resistor in the brake line to the flat deck trailer to cut down the current to it. Might take a little experimenting to find the right value...probably wind up with a wirewound one.. going to look something like this:
That is a good idea. I always figured a guy would have to wire in a completely seperate brake controller for the rear trailers brakes to operate properly. The resistor would be much easier after some experimenting.
The cameras on ebay -"wireless" - they don't state the range, and the sellers either don't know or won't tell you - I did see the specs - it's 19 feet for most of them. Not until you get in the $100 price range do you see 50 or more foot ranges.
I don't think it would be to hard to run an extra wire along the trailer and put a plug between it and the trailer. I think it would be worth the piece of mind of knowing what is going on back there.
I pull two trailers fairly frequently. I pull a 27' fifth wheel and a 20' (tongue to rear) enclosed trailer behind it. All in all it pulls pretty nice. Biggest thing is go slow. I try to stay @60mph, with no wind I will bump up to 65 on flat ground. I don't have much trouble fueling, because you stop at the truck stops where they have long stalls and don't require any backing. If you have to back up you pretty much only back straight up, or you drop the rear trailer, back the first trailer, then hook up to the rear and move it. As far as hooking up the rear trailer goes, I can back my fifth wheel to within 3 inches of the tongue of my rear trailer, from there you just pull or push and get the tongue to sit somewhere on the hitch and then give it a kick in the direction you need it to go and it falls on the ball. I have and do recommend a castor wheel for your second trailer jack, this will make the world a much easier place if you can't back quite so good, it is a real lifesaver if you are by yourself.
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