Turbo Wheel ?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Well, apparantly everyone else is watching football too or something. I don't live in the coldest place but have found that it does take a long time to warm up the engine if I just start to drive. The cooling system in the stock truck is very efficient and when driving down the road in the cold it can take a bit.
EDIT: BTW, a lot of folks have gone to the 203* thermostat for this very reason. Oh, and I do use a piece of cardboard that covers the entire grill this time of year for warmup. Then just set aside. You could conceivably block off about 1/2 of the radiator this time of year and simply drive it that way.
EDIT: BTW, a lot of folks have gone to the 203* thermostat for this very reason. Oh, and I do use a piece of cardboard that covers the entire grill this time of year for warmup. Then just set aside. You could conceivably block off about 1/2 of the radiator this time of year and simply drive it that way.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Nov 24, 2007 at 10:12 PM.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 582
Likes: 0
From: Refugio, Texas
Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
Alright, one more question, with all I have done, the motor temps don't seem to come up very well. Not sure if it's the things I have done or the 20deg weather we are getting, but I would think the thermostat would dictate runningt temp. Do I need to partially block the radiator? We took a 1/2 drive to the movies tonight and barely got to the line above the 'C', the needle stayed just under there. Any suggestions?
This happened to me last year...couldn't get warm inside the truck and noticed temp gauge was not coming up as usual. Thought it was just the cold weather.
Anyway T stat had part of it's rubber that came off and lodged it to stay open.
Replaced with a new one and all was back to normal.
By the way....When replacing the T-Stat....also replace the T-Stat housing and O-Ring....If you don't....It WILL leak...I know this from more than one Powerstroker. Otherwise you will be redoing it to stop the leak.
Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 582
Likes: 0
From: Refugio, Texas
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Two things, first, that wheel looks kinda rough but we have seen far worse here. More on this later. I thought the WW could be installed without turbo removal???
Thread Starter
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
OK, Thanks guys. So do I need to goto Ford for the housing then?
Do you think it would've been easier to remove the turbo to replace the wheel? All the right-ups say to remove it, so what's the advantage or disadvantage of doing so?
Do you think it would've been easier to remove the turbo to replace the wheel? All the right-ups say to remove it, so what's the advantage or disadvantage of doing so?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
OK, Thanks guys. So do I need to goto Ford for the housing then?
Do you think it would've been easier to remove the turbo to replace the wheel? All the right-ups say to remove it, so what's the advantage or disadvantage of doing so?
Do you think it would've been easier to remove the turbo to replace the wheel? All the right-ups say to remove it, so what's the advantage or disadvantage of doing so?
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=188
if you get that..might as well get the 203 stat to0..it bring the N.O.T up to where IH built the 7.3 to run..if you get the t stat from dealer or parts store..make damn sure it is the same as you took out..there is 2 differnt onse (short stem and long stem) and the wrong one will cook the back side of the block..read the link for the 203 to understand what i am saying
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186
i took my turbo off cause i was up grading it any how...its hard to lay under the hood as it is..a couple of bolts are hard to get to with turbo on..dont take long to remove the turbo..you should get new orings for the turbo to pedistal and for the pedistal to block if you take it off ..you can re used the old ones..but for a few bucks its well worth it to just do the new onse now..
Last edited by ron's power stoke; Nov 25, 2007 at 07:49 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
OK, Thanks guys. So do I need to goto Ford for the housing then?
PHP Code:
Got the 6637 in, love it! Can't figure out why anyone thinks it's loud.
Thread Starter
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
"Just wait intil you pull a load, then you'll see grasshopper"
I can't wait! I really like the noise coming from it right now, we'll see what happens w/load
I'll order the housing and thermo tomorrow, probably won't get to install till next weekend anyhow, maybe with a set of gauges.
I can't wait! I really like the noise coming from it right now, we'll see what happens w/load
I'll order the housing and thermo tomorrow, probably won't get to install till next weekend anyhow, maybe with a set of gauges.
Thread Starter
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
What are the opinions on this item, since I need a new actuator I'm curious if I should go this route?
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=457
Also, it looks like I have to have a boost gauge for this product, am I correct?
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=457
Also, it looks like I have to have a boost gauge for this product, am I correct?
Last edited by TurtleRacing; Nov 26, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
not sure on that..i do not know any one running that..i will say Bob is a very good guy..very honest and trust worthy..he has stoped me from buying things from him just cause i really didnt need it..i think if he thought you did not need it..he would tell you..just tell him your a member of FTE...and yes..a boost and EGT gauge is always best with mods...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
Thanks Ron, I'll give them a call.
I guess the way I'm reading the ad on that actuator is, it needs to be adjusted at install.
I guess the way I'm reading the ad on that actuator is, it needs to be adjusted at install.
Thread Starter
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Well, I spent a buncha money! I bought my 3 gauges, a-pillar pod, paint, 203 Tstat, Billet Tstat housing and WG actuator. OUCH!
Funny thing, my truck has been warming up sometimes, sometimes it still doesn't warm up, which tells me the Tstat is screwing up. Is there anything I should know about the coolant? Particular brand I should replace it with or anything else I should know about the Tstat change?
Funny thing, my truck has been warming up sometimes, sometimes it still doesn't warm up, which tells me the Tstat is screwing up. Is there anything I should know about the coolant? Particular brand I should replace it with or anything else I should know about the Tstat change?
Thread Starter
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PSD Addict
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Well, I spent a buncha money! I bought my 3 gauges, a-pillar pod, paint, 203 Tstat, Billet Tstat housing and WG actuator. OUCH!
Funny thing, my truck has been warming up sometimes, sometimes it still doesn't warm up, which tells me the Tstat is screwing up. Is there anything I should know about the coolant? Particular brand I should replace it with or anything else I should know about the Tstat change?
Funny thing, my truck has been warming up sometimes, sometimes it still doesn't warm up, which tells me the Tstat is screwing up. Is there anything I should know about the coolant? Particular brand I should replace it with or anything else I should know about the Tstat change?