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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 06:36 PM
  #16  
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Ron Its your turn !!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #17  
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The green line is not the waste gate an the wheel looks bad.sorry but some one will have a better answer.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 06:46 PM
  #18  
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is there any play in the turbo wheel?? if it was me..id change it in for a WW.. that means pulling the turbo..


get a leak detector..you might get lucky and just need to clean and tighten the boot..but if your doing the WW the boots will be right there to change or clean..
zoodad looks good..and yes strait pipe will free up some power..even on a stock one..
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #19  
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No play in the wheel, feels real good. I guess I'll order a WW and WG actuator Monday.
Maybe just order a new set of hoses while I'm at it.

I know the green line isn't the WG, it just slipped into the pick.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #20  
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Sorry on the green line thing.my bad
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 07:03 PM
  #21  
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good set of boots here..
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...RODGROUP&ID=14
pure diesel has a cheaper set..but i think the clamps are extra.

wicked wheel under a differnt name.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=260

they also have the Banks Power High Performance Wastegate Actuator

http://www.xtremediesel.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=548

you may find this some where else cheaper..i just hapend to see it there..
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 07:33 PM
  #22  
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wicked wheel install..give you something to do...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...tallation.html
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 08:22 PM
  #23  
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Two things, first, that wheel looks kinda rough but we have seen far worse here. More on this later. I thought the WW could be installed without turbo removal???

Second. I am not sure I would be buying new boots unless you just want them right now. That whole valley needs a good cleaning before you do anything. For all we know that is fuel residue all over there from the bowl area. Regardless, first step is cleaning that valley and make sure where it came from. Nobody wants to work in that grime only to have it continue.

Besides, nobody wants to put something new on only to get it grimey. If you have not done the CCV mod, do it. Clean the valley, then disassemble all your CAC/intake boots and clean them. Then reassemble and check for boost leaks. Be very careful about how much torque you put on those clamps. The intake plenums are not made of the stoutest stuff. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 08:36 PM
  #24  
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" For all we know that is fuel residue all over there from the bowl area. "

Bowl area? What bowl, you mean the where the fuel filter sits? I can tell very easily that it's not from there. But I did get the stuff for leak test and will clean everything and do the leak test. I definitely don't want to buy things I don't have to right now.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
Bowl area? What bowl, you mean the where the fuel filter sits? I can tell very easily that it's not from there. But I did get the stuff for leak test and will clean everything and do the leak test. I definitely don't want to buy things I don't have to right now.
Oh??? Just how can you tell all of that, yet not know where the leak is pray tell? I am not trying to be a smarta$$ but you would not be the first one. I am trying to help. No matter where it is coming from, you need to find it and fix it. It will make your troubleshooting life miserable.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:39 PM
  #26  
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I'm not either, but if you are talking about the bowl where the fuel filter sits, it's very easy to tell it's not from there, for one thing, it is very clean in that area, no residue, nothing around there. That intake and boot are far enough away from that bowl that there would have to be a few things covered in oil too. There is nothing covered in oil forward of that boot.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:55 PM
  #27  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
would it do me any good to kick my muffler out and put a straight pipe in?

Thats what I did ,It sounds good and not too loud,plus Its CHEAP !!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:58 PM
  #28  
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OK, just want to be sure. If you have no puddling in the valley then it may be CC vapors though that looks pretty grimey. The fan on these engines will blow a lot of fluid straight back. Clean it up and see if it still leaks. Then get her fixed up. Running w/out the wg line won't hurt as long as you are not driving around hammering the throttle or towing loads.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #29  
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OK, DId a leak test, sounded like a small leak, tightened the clamps some more, no more leak.

Got the 6637 in, love it! Can't figure out why anyone thinks it's loud. Cleaned the junk off the IC tube too.
Took the EBPV tube off and made sure it was clear, what a PIA!! But it was good. How do you know if there's a problem with that system?

Thanks for the help guys!
 

Last edited by TurtleRacing; Nov 24, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #30  
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Alright, one more question, with all I have done, the motor temps don't seem to come up very well. Not sure if it's the things I have done or the 20deg weather we are getting, but I would think the thermostat would dictate runningt temp. Do I need to partially block the radiator? We took a 1/2 drive to the movies tonight and barely got to the line above the 'C', the needle stayed just under there. Any suggestions?
 
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