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checking your fuse box with a test light?

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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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checking your fuse box with a test light?

I'm just wondering where you clamp the little clamp to? Does it have to be grounded?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Any thing that is grounded. Frame, door hinge, etc. Try whatever to a known good fuse.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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and you just pull out the fuse and stick in the pointy part?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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If you are actually testing the fuses touch the metal connector on top of the fuse (blade type) or the metal on the ends of the fuse for glass fuses with out removing. Remove to see if blown if no light, some will require key on and some are hot always.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 11:05 PM
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I'm actually testing for a short because my batteries are almost dead every morning when I go to start it.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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Feel the alternator...... is it warm when everything else is cold.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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To check for a short, turn all systems off and close the doors and remove the bulb from your under hood light. Then, disconnect the battery negative cable. Connect the test light between the cable and the battery neg post. If you have a short the test lamp will light.

If it does light, remove the fuses one at a time. When you see that the light is off, then you have isolated the offending circuit. (Remember that the open door will cause a draw, so you need to press the door switch, possibly tape it while testing.)

If you have pulled all the fuses and the test lamp is still lit, then try disconnecting the alternator.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 02:07 AM
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lets say the alternator is warm...what would that mean?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 08:36 AM
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The alternator being warm, by itself in not conclusive. It well be warm because of it's proximity to the engine, and it does create some heat just doing it's job.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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You may have a shorted diode in the alternator, causing it to draw current all the time. I am guessing you have a diesel with dual batreries? If so, take the aux battery cable off, and then take the other negative cable off and hook it up like Bdox suggested. Here's a diagram.

 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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try disconnecting your batteries when fully charged and let them sit overnight. then check the voltage in the morning. you may have a battery with a dead cell, which will cause the battery to lose voltage and draw voltage from the other battery.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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So basically I should get them load tested? Isn't Ford gonna go "ok we'll load test them for you, but we'll charge you 120$/hr to do it? And thats the part where I tell them to shove their batteries up their a**es? Anyways....so disconnect the second battery and run a test with the test light...and if the test light comes on, theres something drawing current, correct? So..if the light comes on, then I start with the fuse box inside the cab, and put the clip end that grounds out on something and poke the pointy part in the fuse hole?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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No, just go back to Franklin's illustration. Hook up the test light like that and if you have a short, the light will come on. Just pull fuses till the light goes out and that is your bad circuit. If is is an unfused circuit such as the alternator, you have to disconnect that to check if the light goes out. Got it?

If the light does not come on then take the batteries to Autozone for testing.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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So if the light doesnt come on, that means its a battery issue?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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If the light doesn't come on you've eliminated a short in the circuits to fuse box. Have autozone load test your batteries like previously stated. How old are your batteries?
 
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