Heater Core Replacement
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,350
Likes: 4,384
From: SW VA
Originally Posted by Club Wagon
However, we can safely dismiss your "sawzall" suggestion as being absolutely "wrong".
I know what you're saying...and I'm not trying to argue with you. I was just throwing it out there as my experiences.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Royal Palm Beach, Fl
Hear Core
It's apart now. Six hours so far. This job is not for the faint hearted. I don't have the heater hose removal tool so the core is still in place. I'll go get one today. The leak is definately in the core. You can see the coolant stains below it on the condensate drain pan. The A/C is not in the way it is to the right of the heater core as your sitting in the truck. I can take a picture but I don't know how to post it. I'll let you know how it all turns out. Possibily later today. Sure hope it runs again when I'm done.
Last edited by 50th ann; Nov 24, 2007 at 05:15 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 892
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, MN
There is alot of things you do and don't do during repairs. I am an up and coming Ford tech at a dealer, and you do learn shortcuts to make your job faster. If you do an engine R&R, and it says disconnect and evac the AC, but you can simply remove the compressor from the block, leave the lines connected and set it aside and still be able to get the engine out, you will! Though the manuals may say to remove certain stuff, you don't always have to. It's a matter of what makes the job easier.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 263
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From: Royal Palm Beach, Fl
Job Is Done
Another six hours and the job is done. What a job!! I learned it's eaiser to remove the engine than the dash. I put the core under water and pumped it up to make sure it was the core. The leak was at the pipe connection on top of the core. About twelve hours in all but it's back together and everything works.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Bossier City, La
Even though i'm new to this forum, i have to butt in with my 2-cents. I can safely say 5 hours at the most and you should have the heater core in and out and working. They are about as hard as the late 90's early 2000's Dodge Ram 1500 evaporators (we love this. darn blend doors break a lot) but the only thing is, there are quite a few electrical connectors to remove and route them out of the way on that F150. Don't be intimidated, just take it slow and remember where each one of them screws go. Oh and after you slide the dash outta the way, 13 screws later the lid comes off then the blend door then the heater core. Hope this helps out.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
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with the help of this forum and a little luck i was able to replace the heater core in my 98 f-150 what a time comsuming process but pretty easy if ya keep organized andpay attention . the question about discharging the ac loop dont bother not necessary haynes manual was very helpful like trying to remove the headlight switch and air bag . again all went well took us about 10 hours from start to finish
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
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Randy Change it yourself
Make sure you pay attention to how stuff comes apart. Have plenty of space to lay out removed dash panel and all pieces. I referred to the haynes manual for specifics on some removals. very helpful. Be sure to keep screws and fasteners organized for reassembly. Takes a lot of time (10-12hrs)No need to discharge cooling core. Be careful with airbag(DISCONNECT BATTERY AND WAIT FOR FIFTEEN MINS BEFORE REMOVING) I disc battery before starting project just to be sure module discharged. Undoing clips on heater hoses was a bitch and the retainer clips are available(busted mine)for cheap.Having a good drop lite is key as well as a little patience. paying someone to do this would be expensive as hell! good luck.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 659
Likes: 25
Many of us replaced heather core. Haynes is not way to go. Use print out from internet. Don etc did directions how to do job. Goggle it.
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