Heater Core Replacement
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From: Royal Palm Beach, Fl
Heater Core Replacement
My heater core is leaking. It looks like that thing is deep under the dashboard. How much of a job is it to get to it? Got any tricks that might help?
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From: Duluth, MN
Haha, you have to take the dash out.... Good luck! You might even have to seperate or remove the entire evaporator housing to sneak that bugger out. So you'll need to evacuate the AC lines(and I'm guessing you don't have the proper tools for this) in order to get that housing far enough from the fire wall to get that core out.
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Heater core replacement
First how bad is the leak? If its bad good luck.If it is a small one ( pin hole ) check with a GOOD radiator shop and see if the have some good stop leak not the OTC stuf.Worst thing that could happen is you still have to change it latter,hopfully in the sumer when you dont need it.
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From: SW VA
Originally Posted by Wilber15
Haha, you have to take the dash out.... Good luck! You might even have to seperate or remove the entire evaporator housing to sneak that bugger out. So you'll need to evacuate the AC lines(and I'm guessing you don't have the proper tools for this) in order to get that housing far enough from the fire wall to get that core out.
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From: Duluth, MN
I've never done an older f-150. I've only done an 05' and to get the heater housing far enough from the firewall to clear the core lines, you need to disconnect the AC lines. I helped a buddy at work pull the dash for a 98' f-150 but wasn't around when he actually pulled the core, so i wasn't sure.
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From: SW VA
Originally Posted by Wilber15
I've never done an older f-150. I've only done an 05' and to get the heater housing far enough from the firewall to clear the core lines, you need to disconnect the AC lines. I helped a buddy at work pull the dash for a 98' f-150 but wasn't around when he actually pulled the core, so i wasn't sure.
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From: Royal Palm Beach, Fl
Leaky Core
The leak and smell in the cab has been starting and stopping for months now. At least three times now. At first I thought the core rusted out but once that happens the leak dones't stop - Right? The other night parked in my garage there was almost a steady stream leaking. A fast drip that leaked about 8 OZ. The air conditioner was not on so it was not condensation. For at least two days now no leak or smell. Could it be the seals at the hose connectors. I have never seen one apart so I don't know what the possibilities are. Changing the hoses sounds like alot less fun but much eaiser.
What do you think? But the way living in Florida I don't need the heat so much but keeping the coolant in the truck is a good idea anyway.
What do you think? But the way living in Florida I don't need the heat so much but keeping the coolant in the truck is a good idea anyway.
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That's good to know. Sounds like a dreadful job anyway & is a good reason to change antifreeze regularly so as to maintain a high level of anticorrosives to try to prevent heater core failure.
Readers should note that Haynes '97-'03 disagrees. Under "Heater core - removal and installation" step 1 states "have the air conditioning system discharged" & step 4 states "Disconnect and plug the evaporator lines".
I went through a couple of aluminum heater cores in my E150 & learned 2 things. First, I hate the Quick Connectors & ended up eliminating them & 2 found aftermarket aluminum cores were even crumbier than OEM, but after searching around found a soldered brass replacement that was actually cheaper!
Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
No, you don't have to touch the AC system to replace the heater core.
I went through a couple of aluminum heater cores in my E150 & learned 2 things. First, I hate the Quick Connectors & ended up eliminating them & 2 found aftermarket aluminum cores were even crumbier than OEM, but after searching around found a soldered brass replacement that was actually cheaper!
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From: SW VA
Originally Posted by Club Wagon
Readers should note that Haynes '97-'03 disagrees. Under "Heater core - removal and installation" step 1 states "have the air conditioning system discharged" & step 4 states "Disconnect and plug the evaporator lines".
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As I said "That's good to know" & IMO its also good to know what such a common reference as Haynes said. I can not so easily dismiss Wilber15 & Haynes or positively ID which models/years might & might not need the evaporator disconnected. FORD has thrown out a variety of curves as the recent debate about normal & reverse threads on fan clutches illustrated.
Haynes also tells you to drain antifreeze & remove the upper radiator hose in order to remove the fan shroud during fan clutch replacement. I found the fan shroud both flexible & tough enough to wrestle out w/o touching the radiator hose on my '98.
The important point I was trying to make was that its become apparent that these heater cores are fragile, are a proven PITA to replace & are likely to benefit by regular antifreeze changes. IMO changing antifreeze is frequently overlooked & far more important as the number of aluminum components increases. I'll bet my Dad's dealer maintained '98 Cream Puff never had the antifreeze changed, even though FORD specifies 4 year intervals for it's 'premium' antifreeze.
However, we can safely dismiss your "sawzall" suggestion as being absolutely "wrong".
Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
A sawzall would make it so much easier!
The Haynes manual is wrong.
The Haynes manual is wrong.
The important point I was trying to make was that its become apparent that these heater cores are fragile, are a proven PITA to replace & are likely to benefit by regular antifreeze changes. IMO changing antifreeze is frequently overlooked & far more important as the number of aluminum components increases. I'll bet my Dad's dealer maintained '98 Cream Puff never had the antifreeze changed, even though FORD specifies 4 year intervals for it's 'premium' antifreeze.
However, we can safely dismiss your "sawzall" suggestion as being absolutely "wrong".
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IMO you've got a problem if you can not distinguish condensation from antifreeze! IMO if you're running water coolant only, w/o the benefits of antifreeze, you're begging for corrosion problems like "the core rusted out".
IMO "a steady stream leaking...about 8 OZ" should be fairly easy to track down & positively ID. To help you diagnose, if running w/o antifreeze: condensate will be cool, while coolant will be hot. Note: the AC will run in any position except Off, Floor OR Panel. On a 10 YO the leak could be from a variety of sources. Afraid you're going to need to look at it closer & track it down. The heat/AC housing apparently catches condensation or leaking antifreeze & drains it at the same point. Certain AC faults cause an evaporator to ice up, resulting in a quantity of water/melting after shut down, often accompanied by a stale/swampy odor. You need to monitor your coolant level closely.
Originally Posted by 50th ann
The other night parked in my garage there was almost a steady stream leaking. A fast drip that leaked about 8 OZ. The air conditioner was not on so it was not condensation.
Last edited by Club Wagon; Nov 23, 2007 at 10:40 PM.