Heater Core
Heater Core
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: laurel springs NJ
Welcome to the best site for Ford trucks on the net!
1. Buy Haynes Manual
2. See Heating and A/C section.
3. Lift hood
4. Standing in front of vehicle, at passenger side to left of A/C accumulator are 2 hoses coming out of firewall/
5. Notice both have "locking Quick connector couplings"
6. Make choice here:
A: Buy special ford removal tool $62.00 in South Jersey area
B: Decide to break apart connectors and replace with Connectors from local parts store / Connectors should have hose barbs on end. Cost about $20.00 for both.
7. Remove glove box.
8. Remove 4 or 5 bolts from Heater core box.
9. Carefully remove heater core so you don't spill ant-freeze all over interior.
10. Installation is opposite of removal.
Really not too bad of a job. Take your time and look over the Haynes though. After you are done, you will be an "old pro"
Good luck,
reever
1. Buy Haynes Manual
2. See Heating and A/C section.
3. Lift hood
4. Standing in front of vehicle, at passenger side to left of A/C accumulator are 2 hoses coming out of firewall/
5. Notice both have "locking Quick connector couplings"
6. Make choice here:
A: Buy special ford removal tool $62.00 in South Jersey area
B: Decide to break apart connectors and replace with Connectors from local parts store / Connectors should have hose barbs on end. Cost about $20.00 for both.
7. Remove glove box.
8. Remove 4 or 5 bolts from Heater core box.
9. Carefully remove heater core so you don't spill ant-freeze all over interior.
10. Installation is opposite of removal.
Really not too bad of a job. Take your time and look over the Haynes though. After you are done, you will be an "old pro"
Good luck,
reever
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Aerostar Heater Core Replacement Part 1
Hello and welcome to FTE. The following is a technical article I've been working on to submit to FTE. It is too long for posting in its entirety here, so I will have to do it in two sections.
AEROSTAR HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT 4.0L ENGINE
(This is intended as a supplement to the various published repair manuals. While addressing the 4.0L engine, the steps are in many cases, the same as for other models. )
The design of the quick coupling connections found on the Aerostar heater core make for quick and easy attachment
during vehicle assembly, but leave much to be desired when time comes for service or replacement.
BEFORE STARTING
The hose connections at the heater core are 3/4inch while those at the engine side are 5/8 inch. The replacement connector pieces are only available at the dealership. Be sure you specify the 3/4inch size at the parts counter, as the 5/8inch size is the first listed on their parts lookup. The repair assembly is a bag with 2 plastic lock connectors, 4 o-rings and 2 plastic spacers. It is nice to have a second spare set in case all does not go well the first time around and you must remove/re-attach a hose.
You will also need at least one plastic panel anchor – the same type used to secure the door panels.
Do not attempt this repair when the engine or radiator is hot.
DISCONNECTING HEATER HOSES
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Drain approximately one gallon of coolant from the radiator. Cover and locate the drained coolant out of the reach of children and pets. Locate the black radiator core case that starts under the glove box and continues toward the firewall, just above the carpet. Use suitable carpet protection to catch residual coolant spillage when the core is withdrawn.
Mark the hose locations before removal. The upper hose is the return hose and the lower the supply hose.
Remove the entire air filter assembly box. Remember to remove electrical connector for the MAF sensor and to reconnect later.
Remove the single screw holding the EDIS unit to the inner fender panel. The opposite side of the EDIS has a large headed rivet that slides into a keyhole keeper. Fold the EDIS unit and wiring harness out of the way.
Using suitable light, locate the two hose connection at the firewall. Orient the ‘window’ of each connector at the 3:00 and 9:00 o’clock positions to permit easier access for the removal tool. Spray window of each connector with WD-40 or other similar agent.
A special tool is available at most auto parts stores to assist removal. The tool purchased for this recent heater core replacement is an exact duplicate of the one recommend by Ford – a long ‘L’ handle which threads onto either a 5/8 or 3/4inch slotted flange. The factory manual and other general service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) lead one to believe the tool is fitted into place over the connector window, depressing the lock tabs and once released, the coupling withdrawn by pulling back on the tool handle. In reality, the tool merely acts to release the lock tab and allow the coupling to moved only about 3/8inch. You must then grasp the connector housing by hand and work the coupling and o-rings the rest of the way off the core tube. While the tool edges do depress the locking tabs, as long as the tool is in the window, the metal edges also catch on the main plastic connector piece preventing complete withdrawal of the hose.
Start with the upper hose. With your hand, push the connector back toward the firewall as much as will be permitted - approximately 1/4inch of free play can be felt. Fit the remover tool over the window as far back as possible within the window. Using one hand to keep the tool in place, pull forward on the tool handle until you feel stiff resistance. Remove the tool , reach in and grasp the connector by hand and wiggle it up and down firmly while pulling outwards. The connector should release but a firm grip and pull is required. If not successful start again, remembering to push the connector to the rear first.
Once each connector is removed, account for the o-rings (2) and plastic spacer (1) for each connector. Make sure none of the pieces remain inside the plastic connector housing. Wipe the interior surface of the housing with a clean cloth.
The plastic locking connector remains on the core tube. You must remove it before trying to remove the core or else it will catch going through the firewall opening. To remove, reach in and bend each ‘ear’ upward, while pulling forward at the same time. You will likely break off one or both ‘ears’ while doing this. This is normal and expected. (If you do salvage them without breakage, save them for backup in case you happen to damage the new one.)
CORE REMOVAL
After the hoses are removed examine the firewall opening where the heater tubes emerge. Note there is very little excess room and there is also a slotted, heavy rubber seal the core tubes must pass through during removal and installation. There is a very limited amount of room to maneuver the core during installation, making it essential the tubes be oriented properly to prevent damage.
On the inside, remove the right kick panel. There is one hidden plastic anchor holding the kick panel to the pillar – on the front edge midway down. After removing the upper trim panel screw and the long screw going through the lower portion and door sill, you will need to grasp the bottom edge of the kick panel and pull down and out toward the transmission to release the hidden plastic fastener from the pocket on the panel.
Remove the two screws holding the fuel pump cut-off switch. Depending on the model, if there is a large wiring connector adjacent to the fuel pump switch, detach it from the pillar. (You do not need to disconnect these items, just let them dangle or tuck out of the way to allow room for the core cover to be removed.) Lastly, remove the courtesy light attached below the glove box door (if so equipped).
You will need a good, small light source. A head mounted lamp would be ideal or a small gooseneck style attachable light will work. Locate the five retaining screws for the core cover. (The manuals state six but there are only five – at least on the ’91 version.) There are three upper ones, one obvious one near the lower front edge (call it screw A) and a rather hidden one along the lower back edge, just above the carpeting (call it screw B)
The lowest most portion of the cover is a drain that passes through the firewall, surrounded by a big foam rubber donut. To remove the cover assembly, you need to keep the drain in its hole, while pulling straight down on the cover. It is a tight fit to get the cover to clear the lower dash and some degree of mild distortion is necessary to get clearance. (It is also easy to trap your fingers between the cover and lower dash edge during this.) Once clear of the lower dash, pivot the cover forward and withdraw the bottom from the firewall.
NOTE! NOTE! NOTE! After the cover is removed you can see the heater core. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE until after you read this section. The top of the core is held in place by a metal spring clip on the left side of the core. Locate this spring clip and unfasten by pushing upward slightly. The clip is fixed into place during manufacture and cannot be removed. It may inadvertently clip itself back during efforts to remove the core. A foam rubber gasket surrounds the core, which can easily be damaged during removal.
To remove the core, ensure the clip is loose and starting at the top, tip the core slightly forward and outward. Having a helper outside watching the heater core tubes pass through the firewall greatly aids in this step. Often the flanges on the tubes catch on the firewall edges impeding removal. Working slowly downward and outwards, pull the core past the mounting box and out. There will be residual coolant in the core, so be careful to keep the tube ends pointing up.
Part 2 - Heater Core Replacement Continued in next posting
AEROSTAR HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT 4.0L ENGINE
(This is intended as a supplement to the various published repair manuals. While addressing the 4.0L engine, the steps are in many cases, the same as for other models. )
The design of the quick coupling connections found on the Aerostar heater core make for quick and easy attachment
during vehicle assembly, but leave much to be desired when time comes for service or replacement.
BEFORE STARTING
The hose connections at the heater core are 3/4inch while those at the engine side are 5/8 inch. The replacement connector pieces are only available at the dealership. Be sure you specify the 3/4inch size at the parts counter, as the 5/8inch size is the first listed on their parts lookup. The repair assembly is a bag with 2 plastic lock connectors, 4 o-rings and 2 plastic spacers. It is nice to have a second spare set in case all does not go well the first time around and you must remove/re-attach a hose.
You will also need at least one plastic panel anchor – the same type used to secure the door panels.
Do not attempt this repair when the engine or radiator is hot.
DISCONNECTING HEATER HOSES
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Drain approximately one gallon of coolant from the radiator. Cover and locate the drained coolant out of the reach of children and pets. Locate the black radiator core case that starts under the glove box and continues toward the firewall, just above the carpet. Use suitable carpet protection to catch residual coolant spillage when the core is withdrawn.
Mark the hose locations before removal. The upper hose is the return hose and the lower the supply hose.
Remove the entire air filter assembly box. Remember to remove electrical connector for the MAF sensor and to reconnect later.
Remove the single screw holding the EDIS unit to the inner fender panel. The opposite side of the EDIS has a large headed rivet that slides into a keyhole keeper. Fold the EDIS unit and wiring harness out of the way.
Using suitable light, locate the two hose connection at the firewall. Orient the ‘window’ of each connector at the 3:00 and 9:00 o’clock positions to permit easier access for the removal tool. Spray window of each connector with WD-40 or other similar agent.
A special tool is available at most auto parts stores to assist removal. The tool purchased for this recent heater core replacement is an exact duplicate of the one recommend by Ford – a long ‘L’ handle which threads onto either a 5/8 or 3/4inch slotted flange. The factory manual and other general service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) lead one to believe the tool is fitted into place over the connector window, depressing the lock tabs and once released, the coupling withdrawn by pulling back on the tool handle. In reality, the tool merely acts to release the lock tab and allow the coupling to moved only about 3/8inch. You must then grasp the connector housing by hand and work the coupling and o-rings the rest of the way off the core tube. While the tool edges do depress the locking tabs, as long as the tool is in the window, the metal edges also catch on the main plastic connector piece preventing complete withdrawal of the hose.
Start with the upper hose. With your hand, push the connector back toward the firewall as much as will be permitted - approximately 1/4inch of free play can be felt. Fit the remover tool over the window as far back as possible within the window. Using one hand to keep the tool in place, pull forward on the tool handle until you feel stiff resistance. Remove the tool , reach in and grasp the connector by hand and wiggle it up and down firmly while pulling outwards. The connector should release but a firm grip and pull is required. If not successful start again, remembering to push the connector to the rear first.
Once each connector is removed, account for the o-rings (2) and plastic spacer (1) for each connector. Make sure none of the pieces remain inside the plastic connector housing. Wipe the interior surface of the housing with a clean cloth.
The plastic locking connector remains on the core tube. You must remove it before trying to remove the core or else it will catch going through the firewall opening. To remove, reach in and bend each ‘ear’ upward, while pulling forward at the same time. You will likely break off one or both ‘ears’ while doing this. This is normal and expected. (If you do salvage them without breakage, save them for backup in case you happen to damage the new one.)
CORE REMOVAL
After the hoses are removed examine the firewall opening where the heater tubes emerge. Note there is very little excess room and there is also a slotted, heavy rubber seal the core tubes must pass through during removal and installation. There is a very limited amount of room to maneuver the core during installation, making it essential the tubes be oriented properly to prevent damage.
On the inside, remove the right kick panel. There is one hidden plastic anchor holding the kick panel to the pillar – on the front edge midway down. After removing the upper trim panel screw and the long screw going through the lower portion and door sill, you will need to grasp the bottom edge of the kick panel and pull down and out toward the transmission to release the hidden plastic fastener from the pocket on the panel.
Remove the two screws holding the fuel pump cut-off switch. Depending on the model, if there is a large wiring connector adjacent to the fuel pump switch, detach it from the pillar. (You do not need to disconnect these items, just let them dangle or tuck out of the way to allow room for the core cover to be removed.) Lastly, remove the courtesy light attached below the glove box door (if so equipped).
You will need a good, small light source. A head mounted lamp would be ideal or a small gooseneck style attachable light will work. Locate the five retaining screws for the core cover. (The manuals state six but there are only five – at least on the ’91 version.) There are three upper ones, one obvious one near the lower front edge (call it screw A) and a rather hidden one along the lower back edge, just above the carpeting (call it screw B)
The lowest most portion of the cover is a drain that passes through the firewall, surrounded by a big foam rubber donut. To remove the cover assembly, you need to keep the drain in its hole, while pulling straight down on the cover. It is a tight fit to get the cover to clear the lower dash and some degree of mild distortion is necessary to get clearance. (It is also easy to trap your fingers between the cover and lower dash edge during this.) Once clear of the lower dash, pivot the cover forward and withdraw the bottom from the firewall.
NOTE! NOTE! NOTE! After the cover is removed you can see the heater core. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE until after you read this section. The top of the core is held in place by a metal spring clip on the left side of the core. Locate this spring clip and unfasten by pushing upward slightly. The clip is fixed into place during manufacture and cannot be removed. It may inadvertently clip itself back during efforts to remove the core. A foam rubber gasket surrounds the core, which can easily be damaged during removal.
To remove the core, ensure the clip is loose and starting at the top, tip the core slightly forward and outward. Having a helper outside watching the heater core tubes pass through the firewall greatly aids in this step. Often the flanges on the tubes catch on the firewall edges impeding removal. Working slowly downward and outwards, pull the core past the mounting box and out. There will be residual coolant in the core, so be careful to keep the tube ends pointing up.
Part 2 - Heater Core Replacement Continued in next posting
Last edited by aerocolorado; Nov 3, 2003 at 01:04 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Aerostar Heater Core Replacement - Part 2
HEATER CORE INSTALLATION
This is pretty much the reverse of the above. If you have no helper, attaching two one-foot long pieces of thin vinyl tubing over the heater inlet/outlet tubes and putting the ends through the firewall openings first makes finding the access holes much easier as well as protecting the new tube flanges from damage if they catch on the firewall edges.
If the foam rubber gasket around the core is baggy or has been torn during removal, use masking tape to keep the gasket tight around the core during installation. The lower edges of the core sit on defined recesses in the heater box. Make sure both sides are seated in their designated places before attempting to replace the cover. Also, ensure the top of the core is held in place by the spring clip.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE HEATER HOSES UNTIL THE COVER IS IN PLACE!. The temptation is to test the core before replacing the cover. Not having the cover in place allows the core to be displaced when attempting to push on the quick connects. Not enough tubing extends through the firewall to allow the quick connects to fasten, making for a very frustrating experience.
Put the drain section in place and bending the cover slightly inward, push the cover upwards. Match cover edges and LOOSELY replace screw A first to hold the cover while replacing the remaining screws. Screw B is the most difficult to replace.
Reaffix the previously removed components and kick panel.
RECONNECTING HEATER HOSES
If you did not clean the quick connect housing beforehand, do so now. Also wipe the core tube ends and spray with silicone lubricant.
Place an o-ring inside the housing, pushing it all the way to the end of the recess. Follow with a spacer and another o-ring. Make certain the rings and spacers sit flush inside the housing. Notice on the plastic retainer ring on the outside edge are two small nubs. There is a corresponding recess in the connector housing these nubs will need to fit into. Starting with the small nubs, carefully slide the connector ring down into the housing as far as it will go. Just the outer ring of the connector should extend beyond the housing. SPRAY the inside of the housing assembly (and o-rings) with silicone spray.
Replace the lower hose (supply hose) first. Carefully lower it into position until it is parallel with the tube and push the connector STRAIGHT onto the tube until you feel/hear a solid click. Check by trying to pull back on the connector. Replace the upper hose in the same manner. BE CAREFUL NOT to allow the edge of the upper hose connector to run into the window of the lower hose possibly damaging/disconnecting the lower hose.
(CLICK! CLICK! The two most satisfying sounds you’ll ever hear.)
Replace EDIS, air box and MAF electrical connection. Start engine and allow to come to operating temperature. Check for sign of leakage at quick connect couplings.
That’s it, you’re done.
This is pretty much the reverse of the above. If you have no helper, attaching two one-foot long pieces of thin vinyl tubing over the heater inlet/outlet tubes and putting the ends through the firewall openings first makes finding the access holes much easier as well as protecting the new tube flanges from damage if they catch on the firewall edges.
If the foam rubber gasket around the core is baggy or has been torn during removal, use masking tape to keep the gasket tight around the core during installation. The lower edges of the core sit on defined recesses in the heater box. Make sure both sides are seated in their designated places before attempting to replace the cover. Also, ensure the top of the core is held in place by the spring clip.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE HEATER HOSES UNTIL THE COVER IS IN PLACE!. The temptation is to test the core before replacing the cover. Not having the cover in place allows the core to be displaced when attempting to push on the quick connects. Not enough tubing extends through the firewall to allow the quick connects to fasten, making for a very frustrating experience.
Put the drain section in place and bending the cover slightly inward, push the cover upwards. Match cover edges and LOOSELY replace screw A first to hold the cover while replacing the remaining screws. Screw B is the most difficult to replace.
Reaffix the previously removed components and kick panel.
RECONNECTING HEATER HOSES
If you did not clean the quick connect housing beforehand, do so now. Also wipe the core tube ends and spray with silicone lubricant.
Place an o-ring inside the housing, pushing it all the way to the end of the recess. Follow with a spacer and another o-ring. Make certain the rings and spacers sit flush inside the housing. Notice on the plastic retainer ring on the outside edge are two small nubs. There is a corresponding recess in the connector housing these nubs will need to fit into. Starting with the small nubs, carefully slide the connector ring down into the housing as far as it will go. Just the outer ring of the connector should extend beyond the housing. SPRAY the inside of the housing assembly (and o-rings) with silicone spray.
Replace the lower hose (supply hose) first. Carefully lower it into position until it is parallel with the tube and push the connector STRAIGHT onto the tube until you feel/hear a solid click. Check by trying to pull back on the connector. Replace the upper hose in the same manner. BE CAREFUL NOT to allow the edge of the upper hose connector to run into the window of the lower hose possibly damaging/disconnecting the lower hose.
(CLICK! CLICK! The two most satisfying sounds you’ll ever hear.)
Replace EDIS, air box and MAF electrical connection. Start engine and allow to come to operating temperature. Check for sign of leakage at quick connect couplings.
That’s it, you’re done.
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: laurel springs NJ
AeroColorado,
Whats up bud? You are my hero...... The write up is a-#1! My only question/ comment is about the removal of the Quick Disconnects. The only reason I destroyed mine to remove was due to access. My hands just would not fit for all of the money in the world. Believe me I tried. Any way thats my story and I'm sticking to it. I hope you get published here.
Later
reever
Yes, CLICK-Click Great sounds Indeed!!
Whats up bud? You are my hero...... The write up is a-#1! My only question/ comment is about the removal of the Quick Disconnects. The only reason I destroyed mine to remove was due to access. My hands just would not fit for all of the money in the world. Believe me I tried. Any way thats my story and I'm sticking to it. I hope you get published here.
Later
reever
Yes, CLICK-Click Great sounds Indeed!!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Hey reever - Greetings to the resident Surpentine Belt Expert.
Funny you should ask about the quick disconnects, I was looking for this previous posting to help others get them off.
Heater hose disconnect tips:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...52Breplacement
Funny you should ask about the quick disconnects, I was looking for this previous posting to help others get them off.
Heater hose disconnect tips:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...52Breplacement
Last edited by aerocolorado; Nov 3, 2003 at 02:36 PM.
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Just purchased a '94 model with a leaking core. I work for Nissan dealership that happens to also have a Lincoln/Mercury dealer in the family. Called them about purchasing new quick connects and the L/M parts guy told me that Ford now calls for regular worm gear type clamps to use in place of the quick connects. Going to try them tomorrow.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: laurel springs NJ
Hey PaulieMac, Welcome to the best site on the 'net!!
If you want to use worm gear hose clamps, your more than welcome to them. I tried and could not get my hands into that limited space at the firewall. I got them on, but was unable to get them tight enough to not leak under pressure. I think thats why Ford used the snap on locking disconnects. Not easy to get off, but more than adequate to get on!!
Good Luck and post back on what you did
-reever
If you want to use worm gear hose clamps, your more than welcome to them. I tried and could not get my hands into that limited space at the firewall. I got them on, but was unable to get them tight enough to not leak under pressure. I think thats why Ford used the snap on locking disconnects. Not easy to get off, but more than adequate to get on!!
Good Luck and post back on what you did
-reever
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Chandler, AZ
[QUOTE=aerocolorado]HEATER CORE INSTALLATION
This is pretty much the reverse of the above. If you have no helper, attaching two one-foot long pieces of thin vinyl tubing over the heater inlet/outlet tubes and putting the ends through the firewall openings first makes finding the access holes much easier as well as protecting the new tube flanges from damage if they catch on the firewall edges.
If the foam rubber gasket around the core is baggy or has been torn during removal, use masking tape to keep the gasket tight around the core during installation. The lower edges of the core sit on defined recesses in the heater box. Make sure both sides are seated in their designated places before attempting to replace the cover. Also, ensure the top of the core is held in place by the spring clip........QUOTE]
Greetings Aerocolorado and everyone else too!Came in from the garage in a huff (bloody knuckles - cursing Ford - doubting the level of my IQ) to hopefully find some info regarding the Gawd Damd quick connects on the heater hoses. Well, needless to say, I found more info than I could have hoped for. And to think there's more detailed useful info contained here in this forum than the Chiltons and Haynes manuals combined - and it's FREE! I don't have a question anymore, you and the rest of the posters in this thread answered them for me. The mood and attitude I have now is a whole lot different than they were about half-hour ago. Although, at this moment, this task and changing the plugs on my 96 Ext. 4.0 are running neck and neck for the overall largest pain-in-the-*** job one could tackle on these wonderful machines.
Steve McLean
~~"The reason my Aerostar has the turning radius of an aircraft carrier is because you can fit one inside of it and still take the kids to softball practice!"~~
This is pretty much the reverse of the above. If you have no helper, attaching two one-foot long pieces of thin vinyl tubing over the heater inlet/outlet tubes and putting the ends through the firewall openings first makes finding the access holes much easier as well as protecting the new tube flanges from damage if they catch on the firewall edges.
If the foam rubber gasket around the core is baggy or has been torn during removal, use masking tape to keep the gasket tight around the core during installation. The lower edges of the core sit on defined recesses in the heater box. Make sure both sides are seated in their designated places before attempting to replace the cover. Also, ensure the top of the core is held in place by the spring clip........QUOTE]
Greetings Aerocolorado and everyone else too!Came in from the garage in a huff (bloody knuckles - cursing Ford - doubting the level of my IQ) to hopefully find some info regarding the Gawd Damd quick connects on the heater hoses. Well, needless to say, I found more info than I could have hoped for. And to think there's more detailed useful info contained here in this forum than the Chiltons and Haynes manuals combined - and it's FREE! I don't have a question anymore, you and the rest of the posters in this thread answered them for me. The mood and attitude I have now is a whole lot different than they were about half-hour ago. Although, at this moment, this task and changing the plugs on my 96 Ext. 4.0 are running neck and neck for the overall largest pain-in-the-*** job one could tackle on these wonderful machines.
Steve McLean
~~"The reason my Aerostar has the turning radius of an aircraft carrier is because you can fit one inside of it and still take the kids to softball practice!"~~
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