Are you sure it's a resistor? If so what is the color code. Why not just decode it and replace it rather than jump it. Could it be a thermistor(thermo resistor)? That would make more sense. Have you looked inside the gear case for a problem since it fails under load. If you've repaired the motor and it doesn't work under load the gear case is obviously suspect.

 

No that's why I asked somebody with more expieriance to explain. No color code probably custom made for FORD. Checking with a electronic engineer friend the possibilityHopefully my friend would answer us The case is sealed no way to get in without breaking it, this is the newer model I guess, it’s obvious to me there only one big gear in there meaning less moving parts then the older models. No did not repair or install the motor yet see previous post if someone does before me please post result I'll be doing that next time permiting.


I still did not solve right window issue I still have the same problem as in post # 20.
Searched all over the net and this seems to be a common problem but no one is giving the solution or they solve the problem but don’t post the result.

 

You can test the motor by taking it to the door and pushing the switch while holding the output gear with a channel lock or vise grip. This is easier done with an assistant. You need two hands to hold the motor and the tool so it helps to have someone to push the switch unless you can use your elbow or knee to do it.

 

Found some more helpful information the correct name of the thermal device is "Thermal Resistor" Here is a nice explanation found on the net.

"The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more.
The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time."

Keep in mind that the jumper fix will work fine if your regulator is in good condition and well lubricated.
If your regulator is bad and you remove the resistor from the motor and jump it you can be sure to burn the motor in no time and of course wear out the internal motor gear. You'll end up buying a new motor anyway.

Now to find out if this "Thermal Resistor" is available at the local electronic shop. Then it will be a matter of replacing the resistor.

Another nice piece of information:
"A common source of failure of the switch is not even electrical. The plastic switch button shell (the part you press on) will crack on the side and not allow the actual switch underneath to be depressed far enough to work. If the window will operate ok if you press really hard on the button, try replacing the switch."


Use any information provided at your own risk.

eallanboggs thanks I'll try that.


I still did not solve right window issue I still have the same problem as in post # 20.
Searched all over the net and this seems to be a common problem but no one is giving the solution or they solve the problem but don’t post the result.

 

Does this thread applies to the problem in post #20 and 21?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...challenge.html

 

This isn't relative to the electrical problems being discussed in this thread but perhaps may be useful info for someone in the future. I've never seen this before and that's why I'm going slightly off topic with it.

My motor worked fine, could hear it trying to operate the regulator. I removed the motor, yep fine. Removed/replaced the regulator after finding a lot of "slop" in the pivot point. I ground off the pivot "axle" to show the extreme wear. No wonder it didn't work!




Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming ............