I have the same problem with my 1997 f150. It is very intermittent but with mine I am almost sure it's water related somehow. It only happens after a big rainstorm. I am puzzled though because I pulled the fuse block and can't see any damage around the GEM module. I have been just living with it, fortunately it always fails to go down and no problem going up. And it works more often than not.

 

Did anybody manage to post any pictures?

I have what I think is a motor problem. It just started this morning and the window went down once on my 30 minute ride to work. It went down an inch before I reversed the switch to move the window back up (didn’t want it to get stuck in the down position). The window went back up but I haven’t gotten it to down since. I’m going to yank the door panel and give the motor a whack when I get home from work and see what happens.

 

Didn’t have to whack it with a hammer because the window worked fine on my way home but I’m going to replace the motor anyway.

Before I open things up I was wondering if anybody had some reference photos or maybe an exploded view?

 

I realize I'm a bit late on this, but I just changed out both my window motors on my '97 F150 yesterday.

It's much much easier than it may seem at first.

Pop off the door moldings (they all just pop out with mild tugging.) Remove the handle with an 8mm socket, then once you've lifted the button assembly and detached the button connectors, LIFT the door handle and that part of the paneling will pop out.

Once you remove the moisture barrier, you may have to remove your speaker if it's in place like mine. Why? That's where I eventually reached in and pulled the motor out.

(You can just stick the speaker on the door via the magnet on the rear.)

Now you should see 2 dimples near the rivets that are holding the regulator assembly and motor in place.

I used a saw to cut 2 holes large enough to reach a socket through and remove the bolts holding the motor in place.

NOTICE I did NOT remove the rivets holding the regulator in place. My regulators were fine, just the motors were shot.

Once you remove all 3 sockets holding the motor to the regulator, just reach in through the speaker hole and remove the motor.

Putting the new one in place was just a matter of feeling out the groves where the motor teeth will rest and then bolting it back in place with the same hardware you just removed.

I did take pics, but they are on my phone.

 

I replaced the drivers door motor but just hear a clicking from the "one touch down relay" in the fuse box when try to lower the window. When I pulled the motor out, lowered the window some and reinstalled it the window worked going up but still wont lower. Window works in both directions when I put 12 volts straight to motor.

Before I purchase a new relay, does anyone know of anything else it may be?

It's a 97 F-150

 

Rarely use my windows on my F150.
The right side stopped working more then a year ago the driver side went out about 2 weeks ago.
Despite the recommendations of “cstrack” in post #12 on the ACI motors made in China I bought 2 of them right and left side the reason being that it was the only option I had were I live.
The right side was replaced and is working fine.
On the left side I have the same problem as post #20 from “Bart97”
1) Fuse is OK
2) Relay replaced from a friends F150 also OK
3) Removed my switch and tested on my friends F150 and works fine in both directions.
4) When pressing the switch up it shows voltage activating the motor. When the switch is pressed down zero voltage no activation of the motor.
5) Decided to but back in the old motor being obvious now what the problem is but to my surprise it worked for 2 cycles (down & up, down & up) and remained up so temporarily it did get current.

Any idea what might be wrong?
ctrack is your old motor still working?

Picture 1 = securing window
Picture 2 = Pointing out were to be drilled
Picture 3 = Holes made. Note the third hole is bigger because it was a wild guess
Picture 4 = The Ford motor and the ACI motor. Note the quality.

Sorry could not attach photos there no icon for this.

 

If you upload your pictures to your gallery, you can link to them in your reply.

 

Here are the pictures:

 

I've done a bunch of these on the 97 to 2002s. You must LOAD down the motor down to verify it's faulty once you remove it. I use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the rivets. Much faster than drilling. I open the gearcase to expose the planetaries inside. The ring and sun are ususally OK, but the planets are make of plastic and crumble into small pieces once they dry out and become rock hard after a few years. I don't buy a new motor since I can replace the planets for FREE. I take a 5/16" X 3" hex head bolt with a long shoulder(must have shoulder). I cut 1/2" sections(3) out of the shoulder portion of the bolt. I drop these into where I just removed the 3 broken plastic planets. They are the perfect size and work great. Add some grease before you put the gearcase cover back on. I just realize it's not FREE. How much does a 5/16" hex bolt cost? Not $50 that's for sure.

 

Pictures man, pictures. We need pictures!!!!

 

Just for clarification the photos show how to remove the motor without removing the regulator.
In picture # 2 you can see the dimples (2 of them) (not rivets) shown by the arrows but were the third motor screw lies behind the panel you’ll have to guess more or less were to drill. I’ve marked it with a dot and arrow. Mine was wide enough to use an 8mm socket to remove the 3 motor screws that’s holding the motor to the regulator.

Aellanboggs thanks for the tip nice to know that this motor can be recycled.
Initially I was looking all over the net for this piece of information I’m going to try it out this weekend and post the pictures.
Here is a picture of a Hex head bolt is this what you were referring to?

I’ll know this weekend for sure when I take the motor apart.

By the way I still haven’t solved the problem of the right side most feedback I’m getting is that the switch is defective but as I said before it operated fine on my friends F150. I’ll test the switch again this weekend. This time I’ll take my friends switch and test it on my truck.

 

If you get a 5/16"X3" bolt the shoulder bolt the shoulder portion should be long enough to cut 3 planets(1/2" sections) out of it. The bolt in the pic is shorter than 3". You may have to look around for a bolt with a long shoulder. Some hex bolts don't even have shoulders while the ones that do have shoulders of different lengths. You want one with a long shoulder since this is the portion of the bolt you'll be cutting your planets from. Do NOT use the threaded portion of the bolt to make your planets.

 

You can also get the correct plastic "planets" at many places. Here's some on eBay. IMO, if you replace them with steel ones you make, then next time it fails, another component that's non-replaceable will be worn out and you'll have to get a new motor.
eBay Motors: FORD F150 F250 F350 POWER WINDOW MOTOR REPAIR KIT (x2) (item 280237478829 end time Jun-24-08 10:26:17 PDT)

I've read this is available as Napa part # 665-1524.

 

Wow, I did not know that. That's pretty neat. I was told(when I tried to find a rebuid kit) that they were no longer available. The came from Ford and some local auto parts suppliers. That's when I came up with the shoulder bolt idea. I sure the replacement planets will work until the dry out and fail as the OEMs do. If you look closely at the RING and SUN they are of much higher quality than those planets. That's why the planets fail first. I guess the ring gear would be next to go, but I believe it would be many years before that happens.

 

This motor must be the newer models. (My truck is from 1999)
It uses only a large gear in a sealed case that can not be open. (See picture)
When I removed the motor from the gear casing I could see right away that it was dry and needed some grease. Thru the hole in the gear casing I could see also that the gear is in good condition. The motor it self is in very good condition with a lot of carbon.
The only thing that’s probably bad is the thermal protection resistor (somebody corrects me if it’s not a resistor) it measured between 3 & 6 Ohms fluctuating. See picture.

Here is some information on this particular motor:
1) It would not operate the window up or down.
2) When removed from the regulator (thus no load on the motor) and current is applied it works fine. Attach it back on the regulator apply current it doesn’t work.

My conclusion to solve this is to remove the resistor you’ll need a soldering iron for this and jump it with a piece of wire. This should let the motor work without cutting power when there load on it. The only disadvantage by doing this is that if somebody rests their arms on the switch unaware this will keep the motor activated and possibly burning the motor. There is no cut off protection.

I’ll be testing this next time and post result.
If anybody does this before me please post results.

I still did not solve right window issue I still have the same problem as in post # 20.
Searched all over the net and this seems to be a common problem but no one is giving the solution or they solve the problem but don’t post the result.

This is my model of motor. Seems to be from the older models.

Showing the 2 screws that has to be removed.

The gear case and the motor.

The opening in the gear case were you could see only one big gear.

Taking the motor apart.

The top cover of the motor upside down. Showing the thermal resistor.

Top cover right side up. Showing the 2 legs of the resistor. Soldering iron needed to remove resistor. Then jump with wire.