okay, then why is this picklex so mch more expensive than the ospho I get from Home Depot? Because people haven't figured it out yet?

 

I'm not very close to Pittsburgh. I'm in the far NorthEast corner of Lamar County on the Red River. Paris is the county seat and I'm 20 miles from Paris.

 

I use to fish Pairs lake quite often. Haven't been that direction in years. Were only about 80 miles from each other. I live in Colin county.

 

I have a bottom feeder that i leave the acid etch primer in, shake it (not stirred ) each time I need it , clean the gun every few weeks or so....

 

You need to try some paintless dent repair tools, I haven't used my stud welder in years....

 

I looked for access to the lower part of the door, it was not there. That was my first choice. I even though about taking the lower skin off to straighten it, then weld it back in. At the time I decided that was to much work. The skin on this door is ~1/16" thick. Most of the dentless repair tools were design for bear can panels. I have enough metal in this one door to make a complete car by today standards. If the dent was 5" higher I would have had inside access and it may have missed the roll. If you look at a 57-72 door panel there is a roll ~4" from the bottom.

My dent started about 12" from the front and progressively got deeper, with the max 4" from the end. I did this on a tree stump that my dad had cut down and left it 12"-14" above the ground. I did not see it, it was pouring down rain at the time it happen so I did not hear anything.

I had dents in strange places on this PU. Being on a farm for 30 yrs, it gets hit from all directions. Top tight of the cab, where a tree fell on it. Just to the left of the right headlight on the hood, where it rolled into a tree. Just to name a few.

 

The nice thing about the tools is you can drill a small hole anywhere you need it & weld it shut again

 

The bed on my 79 has been stripped to bare metal for 6 years with no problems except for the spots my fingers have touched, my truck is inside a dry garage.

I am not an expert painter but would hesitate about using epoxy primer since it is tough to sand, I will use it if I am within 24-48 hours of laying paint.

I have used etch primer to cover the bare metal on the cab and fenders and seems to get stronger with age if part is not ready for paint anytime soon. I know after a light sanding I can lay the epoxy down, paint and clear soon after.

 

What do the automotive paint reps say about treating metal with Ospho or Picklex? Since this is an acid, will that cause problems with the subsequent primers, body fillers, final top coat paints?